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So I received this near 7/8 with some staining and light rust. Now the problem is the gold wash. I am debating wether to keep it or just get rid of it. I would like to keep as much as possible. I might just let it go if the gold wash cannot be preserved.Attachment 155879Attachment 155880Attachment 155883
That looks like it might be cell rot in the earlier stages, if it is, just cleaning the blade won't do much good because it will come back and get worse if those scales stay on.
Let's say that I replace the scales; is there a way to salvage the logo?
I think Glen has a method were he dissolves the scales in acetone(?) which leaves the inlay intact but you might want to wait for one of the other members to give a second opinion before you remove the scales since I'm not a 100% sure that it is cell rot.
If it is cell rot, then those are celluloid scales. If that's the case, this should help:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReEkuWzEmdM
A test of cell rot is to strip the scales from the nice blade and put them in a ziploc with an old blade that is already dead but somewhat clean, like one that it chipped or suffering from bad hone wear, zip it up and watch, if the old blade if fine so are your scales...
Does celluloid shrink? because the scales appear to have shrunk.
Good question!Quote:
Originally Posted by rocarule
Yes Celluloid does shrink; the red scales on the Red Imp are the worst but others do also. Often, One side shrinks more than the other.
Faux Ivory usually does also but more slowly. Often the blade does not quite clear the wedge when that happens. Watch also for corrosion at the wedge end of the blade. Some of the cheap celluloid wedges are really toxic! Dubble Dux are the worst for that. Others from Bresduck are iffy.
Best to replace than worry!
~Richard
Remember that it is hard to diagnose cell rot you basically have to play Doctor and start reading the Symtoms..
you have
1, Corrosion
2. Warp
3. Shrinking
So you are adding up to a more positive diagnosis of cell rot :( it is in the early stages if it is, which makes it harder ...
Thanks gssixgun; so let's say that I wanted to keep most of the gold wash and replace the scales. I do not mind some staining, but I want it to look cleaner; what would you recommend?
And as a second question
I want transparent red or Amber; what are the recommended materials for these colors?
Colored Plexiglass sign colors translucent plastic samplesQuote:
Originally Posted by rocarule
I will have to say that it is NOT the easiest material to work with.
10pups makes it LOOK EASY, but I just finished one in CLEAR and what a PITA it is!
To save the goldwash just put some tape (blue painters is what I use) over the parts you want to save. Then lightly sand the bits of corrosion away.
As for the amber or red translucent colors... you could go to the nearest office supply store and search for clear plastic clipboards. I used a green one for a WH Morely I restored, it was very easy to work with and polish. Although you won't be able to contour them like thicker pieces of scale blanks and they are somewhat rigid so they will snap under too much flex.
There is also another way for you to maintain the gold wash but it is not for the faint of heart. Depending on how much you really wanted a full resto you could electro-plate the gold wash back on after finishing the blade. There are a FEW posts here that discuss this process but it has been a while since I have seen them and done it.
I wonder how much that runs.
From what little research I have done it is around $100-$120. It looks like you might be able to get 2-4 blades out of it though.Quote:
Originally Posted by rocarule
Around here (NY) I can't find anyone to do the plating for me.
They say any type of "weapon" they can not do.
Have you guys heard of this product
http://m.whateverworks.com/product/d...FYVffgod4m8Acg
No I was talking about doing it yourself, not sending it out. Although I don't really think that it would be very economical for just one blade.
I haven't tried it - maybe someone here has, but ran across this the other day and was considering it may be worth $70 and breaking down a Goldedge to have gold back on the tang...
Plug N' PlateŽ Brush Plating Kits - Caswell Inc
I might jump for one of those.
As a kid, in the 50's, my Dad and I used a battery operated wand plater like that and It did work well when the substrate was fully degreased and cleaned properly.
~Richard
Sometimes rust on goldwash can be improved by rubbing with a rust remover like Birchwood Casey's stuff but of course it will darken the steel if you get overruns.
I have opted to remove all the gold with the exception of the brand logo on the blade Attachment 157175Attachment 157176Attachment 157177Attachment 157178Attachment 157179
You may want to move your scales forward a bit...towards the toe of the blade. This will give it a more balanced look and give you more on the wedge end to work with.
I will definitely do
