Got the first restoration under my belt!

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03-10-2014, 07:13 PM
rvrboy17

3 Attachment(s)

Got the first restoration under my belt!

Hey Workshop! So I finally finished my restoration. If you've seen my other posts, I broke the original blade for the scales I was making. I had a Boker with broken scales so I merged the two. With a few changes to the scales, I was able to make the new blade fit!

Firsts:
First Restoration
First Pinning
First Scale Making
First Wedging

Please critique the razor! I know the blade has patina, but that was my choice to leave on there. I like the old vibe it gives. But everything else is on the table! Let me know what I should do or not do for project #2!

Attachment 159221

Attachment 159222

Attachment 159223
03-10-2014, 07:25 PM
pixelfixed

They look great,Only thing I would Critque Is next time make a wedge,not a spacer.
03-10-2014, 07:40 PM
rvrboy17

Got the first restoration under my belt!

Quote:

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

They look great,Only thing I would Critque Is next time make a wedge,not a spacer.

Thanks! I messed up there. I drilled the hole too far toward the middle of the scales so when I tightened the screws during mock up, it didn't have the leverage to "wedge" the wood.
I'm not sure if that makes sense. Basically I need to drill the hole in the center if the wedge, not the front.

I'll add it to my list of changes! :)
03-10-2014, 07:42 PM
bouschie

Very nice. What are the scales? Did you leave them natural or poly coated?
03-10-2014, 07:43 PM
rvrboy17

Quote:

Originally Posted by bouschie

Very nice. What are the scales? Did you leave them natural or poly coated?

The scales are curly maple. I sanded them to 400, then put 5 coats of polyurethane on, sanding with 320 between each coat.
03-10-2014, 07:45 PM
Hart

Although its hard to tell for sure from the pics, the wood grain and finish look nice and the blade quite clean. I think it best not to over work the metal hoping for near perfection. The scales look good with that blade.
03-10-2014, 07:49 PM
pixelfixed

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvrboy17

Thanks! I messed up there. I drilled the hole too far toward the middle of the scales so when I tightened the screws during mock up, it didn't have the leverage to "wedge" the wood.
I'm not sure if that makes sense. Basically I need to drill the hole in the center if the wedge, not the front.

I'll a ditto my list if changes! :)

NO, if you drill the hole in the middle of the wedge,it will not function as a true wedge,experiment,wedges can be a PITA but getting them right is very important.That the reason alot of people use spacers,very easy to do, but not in the classic style.
03-10-2014, 07:55 PM
rvrboy17

Quote:

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

NO, if you drill the hole in the middle of the wedge,it will not function as a true wedge,experiment,wedges can be a PITA but getting them right is very important.That the reason alot of people use spacers,very easy to do, but not in the classic style.

Okay I'll have to go back and research it more. I know what I did wrong so I'll look into correcting it properly.
03-10-2014, 08:00 PM
pixelfixed

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvrboy17

Okay I'll have to go back and research it more. I know what I did wrong so I'll look into correcting it properly.

The one above looks great,I would not change a thing at this point in Time(I heard that before someplace on SRP)
The blade is set as are the scales,it will function fine,next one play with.
03-10-2014, 08:09 PM
rvrboy17

Got the first restoration under my belt!

Quote:

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

The one above looks great,I would not change a thing at this point in Time(I heard that before someplace on SRP)
The blade is set as are the scales,it will function fine,next one play with.

My apologies for not being clear, I meant I'll play with it on the next one!
03-10-2014, 08:18 PM
Hart

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvrboy17

Okay I'll have to go back and research it more. I know what I did wrong so I'll look into correcting it properly.

You don't have to have a wedge. I see them tensioning the scales and keeping them straight and causing them to bow around the thickest part of the blade near the heel and follow the taper of the tang as they converge on the pivot. On a thinner blade without much taper in the tang I don't see there being much point in it. I've taken a lead wedge out of one old razor that was almost flat. I had to wonder why they bothered. When It does go right, It does look nice though.
03-10-2014, 08:37 PM
UKRob

It's the visual aspect that makes a wedge look so much better than a spacer - even thought some blades make not require one.
03-10-2014, 08:50 PM
Steel

I like it! A wedge is something to try maybe and to advance your learning experience but for your first one it is much better than I could do. Well done.
03-10-2014, 09:18 PM
pixelfixed

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hart

You don't have to have a wedge. I see them tensioning the scales and keeping them straight and causing them to bow around the thickest part of the blade near the heel and follow the taper of the tang as they converge on the pivot. On a thinner blade without much taper in the tang I don't see there being much point in it. I've taken a lead wedge out of one old razor that was almost flat. I had to wonder why they bothered. When It does go right, It does look nice though.

Correct, you do not need a wedge,BUT,we are talking Restoration here,That means restoring a Razor back to its orig form as possible.
Has anyone seen an orig vintage blade with a spacer? Maybe they exsist,I have not seen one Tho.
03-10-2014, 09:56 PM
rvrboy17

There seems to be a lot of opinions on the wedge. Im definitely going to play with it in the future to see if I can get the hang of it! :hmmm:
03-10-2014, 10:01 PM
gssixgun

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvrboy17

There seems to be a lot of opinions on the wedge. Im definitely going to play with it in the future to see if I can get the hang of it! :hmmm:

Very simple, take some time and look at the way a vintage razor works, why the wedge is actually a wedge, honest there will be no question about it once you take the time to look and learn the "WHY" part...

Something I learned really fast, those old farts making razors and figuring out the why part for the last 300 years were pretty smart guys, they did things hands on and worked them out so that many of these tools are still here and working just like they are supposed to after all these years... I took the time to look and learn the why of it....
03-10-2014, 10:08 PM
rvrboy17

Quote:

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Very simple, take some time and look at the way a vintage razor works, why the wedge is actually a wedge, honest there will be no question about it once you take the time to look and learn the "WHY" part...

Something I learned really fast, those old farts making razors and figuring out the why part for the last 300 years were pretty smart guys, they did things hands on and worked them out so that many of these tools are still here and working just like they are supposed to after all these years... I took the time to look and learn the why of it....

I have no qualms with admitting there are many, many men smarter than me. I have a lot to learn in this niche and Im excited to learn. When doing my initial research, I found a lot of "how-to's" on wedges, but never ran across "why wedge". Ill make sure to read up on that before my next go about!
03-11-2014, 06:32 AM
rvrboy17

7 Attachment(s)

Added HQ photos!

Attachment 159299

Attachment 159300

Attachment 159301

Attachment 159302

Attachment 159303

Attachment 159304

Attachment 159305
03-11-2014, 11:43 AM
wikedeye

The razor looks good. I am getting inspired to start restoring some razors.
03-11-2014, 04:04 PM
rvrboy17

Quote:

Originally Posted by wikedeye

The razor looks good. I am getting inspired to start restoring some razors.

It was a challenging, but a very rewarding project. If you have an older one, or one you find on ebay, that you dont mind experimenting with, Id say go for it!
03-11-2014, 05:57 PM
wynndow

I wouldn't consider myself a pro by any means I just began making razors last year so take what I'm about to say and do with it what you will, and I'm sure if it's a terrible idea one of the more experienced guys will correct me.

When I'm putting the razor together for the final time I like using a little bit of super glue or something similar on both sides of the wedge (with the pin in of course) and clamping it tight. Then once it sets peen the pin it really helps get that super tight fit along the wedge. Then pinning the actual blade in last.
03-11-2014, 06:16 PM
pixelfixed

Quote:

Originally Posted by wynndow

I wouldn't consider myself a pro by any means I just began making razors last year so take what I'm about to say and do with it what you will, and I'm sure if it's a terrible idea one of the more experienced guys will correct me.

When I'm putting the razor together for the final time I like using a little bit of super glue or something similar on both sides of the wedge (with the pin in of course) and clamping it tight. Then once it sets peen the pin it really helps get that super tight fit along the wedge. Then pinning the actual blade in last.

I do the same it works well for me,Dorko used to glue wedges as well.
03-11-2014, 07:13 PM
rvrboy17

Quote:

Originally Posted by wynndow

I wouldn't consider myself a pro by any means I just began making razors last year so take what I'm about to say and do with it what you will, and I'm sure if it's a terrible idea one of the more experienced guys will correct me.

When I'm putting the razor together for the final time I like using a little bit of super glue or something similar on both sides of the wedge (with the pin in of course) and clamping it tight. Then once it sets peen the pin it really helps get that super tight fit along the wedge. Then pinning the actual blade in last.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

I do the same it works well for me,Dorko used to glue wedges as well.

I glued the spacer with wood glue to one side of the scales so it would stay flush after sanding. I'll make sure to do the same with the wedges!
03-11-2014, 07:19 PM
gssixgun

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvrboy17

I glued the spacer with wood glue to one side of the scales so it would stay flush after sanding. I'll make sure to do the same with the wedges!

Good idea, that way you can still make adjustments if needed..

Most Vintage stuff is unglued
You find some that are one side glued
and a few that are both side glued
03-11-2014, 07:35 PM
rvrboy17

Quote:

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Good idea, that way you can still make adjustments if needed..

Most Vintage stuff is unglued
You find some that are one side glued
and a few that are both side glued

That's what I did. When my FW Engels blade broke, the Boker was smaller and thinner, so I had/chose to sand down the non glued side to get the blade to sit right. I got the idea from a how-to article on this site!

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