Gents,
any suggestions for removing active rust at the pivot without removing scales.. The blade is in mint condition besides the very lil bit of rust at the pivot..??
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Gents,
any suggestions for removing active rust at the pivot without removing scales.. The blade is in mint condition besides the very lil bit of rust at the pivot..??
floss? small tab of metal polish on a q-tip?
Pipe cleaners work well, especially the ones with plastic bristles.
Sometimes I hesitate to give this advice...
Warning these things are dangerous to your skin and eyes wear safety glasses and Nitrile gloves when you use them, I know they seem safe but get the fibers in your fingers and then in your eyes and you will be VERY sorry...
Amazon.com: Fiberglass Rust Brush Detail Prep & Cleaning Tool: Automotive
These work very well, just be careful using them
A good beginning is to take a q-tip, smash it with a hammer, and dip it into some damp Comet or Ajax. Amazing how much it will do for the pivot and the insides of the scales. Gets a lot of rust out. Scrub and move blade around, scrub some more. Q-tips are cheap. If it gets floppy, get out another one! Rinse well, blow out pivot with compressed air. Then do same with Maas or semichrome polish.
Don't cut yourself!
Not quite as dangerous as fibreglass but If you have a dremel these little abrasive wheels spinning @ 19k rpm do a great job on tangs .
Those little detail tools Glenn writes about are really good at that as well as a number of other cleanup uses. Definitely heed the warning about protection though. That said, I've used them on pivot areas, etchings, scale embossing and inlay, and countless other things. Inexpensive and effective. Where I once used a Dremmel I now use those prep tools with much less possibility of too much material being removed.
The absolute best way is to unpin the razor,if you have active rust is no way you can remove it all without doing so.
Not an answer you may want to hear.
And, those fiberglas detail tools will get under your skin and onto any place you sit and...well you get the idea. The tiny strands of broken glass take a long time to come the surface!
~Richard
I haven't yet..tried the idea of an old "Waterpic" and tooth powder. I have used a sand blaster airbrush though with baking soda and low pressure.
I picked up some of those buffing wheels Onimaru shared in post 6.
Man, are those thing great, perfect for getting between the scales at the pivot.
Picked up a 16 piece set of 4 mandrels and 4 grits of 4 each wheel for about 20 bucks from Jetstools on EBay here is the link.
The newer ones have the quick change version and are much more expensive. I can work a screwdriver.
Thanks Onimaru, great tip.
All good Euclid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
Yeah me too. My Dremel even came with a screwdriver . :)
This has been an interesting Thread,to me at least.Alot of the best resto guys have responed,as have very experianced members.Will pose a question,Your dealing with metal cancer.Picks,dental Floss,smashed Q-tips,Dremels etc.Do any of the pros think any of the above will work longterm?I don't,JMO
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
No,,, There comes a point when the razor needs to be popped and the metal needs to be polished to a smooth finish so that it resists rust again..
The razor pretty much decides what is needed, our job as a Restorist is to determine what each razor is telling us :p
OR
You shave with a rusty razor, I guess that is also an option :) but if you call the rust "Patina" all is good :rofl2:
+1... One of the best tools to use and as Euclid says quite inexpensive and they last a pretty long time as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by onimaru55
From the point of view of an amateur ........ Smashed q-tips and floss are two things I've used when I cared about the rust at the pivot. If it is just rust I usually don't care. Grunge OTOH, I want outta there. Point is, depends on the mindset of the end user. Some, like me, just go so far and call it good. Others want it perfect, or close to it. IMHO.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
If a Blade is worth a resto,(vast majority newbs buy are not)is a right way and a wrong way.Patina is one thing,active rust is not.
I took this advice a long time ago and it had paid off very well. And yes it does shed fiberglass in the finest form. If you get one buy 3 :<0)
And yes your right pixel. IMHO it should come apart if there is active rust. Not that hard to do it right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
I just bought 8 replacement "tips" for mine. It is probably the best tool I have in my case. :tu