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Here are the two straights I picked up at a flea market for $13. I want to restore them and I used some metal polish to get some gunk off and here is what I saw. These pics are not the best but, what can I do to clean these up? See all the scratches? I have Billy's CD ordered but, it's not here yet. Any suggestions on what I should do?
Can - a progression of sandpapers. I'd start around 400 and go up from there ending at around 1500 or 2000. Finish with polishing paste such as Simichrome, Flitz or Maas. - John
And I should be using my dremel while doing all of this correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by Namdnas
Can-
IMHO (and, bear in mind, I'm just getting started at this stuff, too!) One of those blades appears to have a fair amount of pitting up by the spine. So, first you need to decide what level of restoration you're looking for. I mean, we ALL want the kind of restorations that Joe and Vlad and usedtobe Bill would post on here, but bear in mind that THOSE are the razor equivalents of Angeline Jolie in the actress world....or Elle McPherson in the modeling world.... or Jenna Jameson in the......well, whatever....you get my drift. In that case, I would follow John's suggestion and start with the 400 and take it from there. And don't start progessing up the grit ladder until ALL of the pits and are gone, and the only thing left are the 400 marks. Bear in mind, you've got to look at the deepest pit, and realize that you've got to take that much metal off the whole surface.
Or, are you interested in cleaning up the scratches, making them shiny and living with the pits (and, for the sake of my marriage, I am not going to make ANY comparisons here....NONE)....ahem...if that's the case, you might start with 1000-1200 grit and go from there. John's suggestions are excellent, and the only thing that I might add is that Vlad in one of his earlier posts recomended using mineral oil with the wet/dry sandpaper - he said it made a bit of a slurry and really speeded up the process.
This probably wasn't much help, but at least I got to mention Jenna Jameson on a shaving forum!
(...made MY day!...):tu
-whatever
-Lou
If you want to get rid of the pits, then use the Dremel,and you'll need to order the 400 grit flapwheels from widgetsupply.comQuote:
Originally Posted by canman23
Also, take a look at Ilija's video - it's real helpful - and watch the video BEFORE you order the flapwheels, so you get the proper one! I made the same mistake that Josh did, and ordered the long, thin ones instead of the short, wide ones.
...live and learn!
-whatever
-Lou
Can-
I just went over to the thread that you started the other day (here) - if those scratches that you're trying to remove are from a 120-grit flapwheel, then you're probably going to have to start with a minimum of 220 and work up from there. As Ilija points out, you could just work your way up to a 400-grit flapwheel and leave the 'satin' finish.
But lets get some other opinions from the more experienced hands.
-whatever
-Lou
is there a link to Ilija's video
Thanks Lou, that will get me started until I get the restoration video. I will have to order that 400 grit flywheel before I go on from here.
...and the Oscar goes to.....Quote:
Originally Posted by heliguy
Best Film Made in Under 15 Minutes
Ilija!!!
(...party at Ilija's after the awards ceremony..BYOB)
-whatever
-Lou
You should also take a look at these two threads (the link to the video is from the 'Part 2' thread):
Flap Wheel Questions
Flap Wheels Part 2
-whatever
-Lou
Funny.Quote:
Originally Posted by scarface
I could almost swear he was talking during all of that. :)
For those that are just trying this, one thing to note is that he keeps the blade flat....you'll notice the 'grab' every now and then from the dremel wheel. If you try and 'free hand' it (versus keeping the blade flat) you run the risk of that 'grab' from the wheel chipping out the blade or throwing the razor. It will happen faster than you can react....trust me.
I do this now in a different way, in that I have the dremel drill stand, which can hold the dremel set up horizontally (versus vertically for a drill press), and you can manipulate the blade (rather than the dremel wheel), the same as a buffing or gind wheel.... It's a pretty neat set up and also helps drill those pin holes straight! BUT, you still need to be aware of the direction of the wheel-spin...she'll grab just as well if you are not careful.......
C utz
It was dubbed.:tuQuote:
Originally Posted by C utz
-whatever
-Lou