I have seen razors somewhere with removable pins. I'm thinking of making custom scales and I like the idea of being able to take them apart to clean.
Are there any disadvantages to this approach?
Where can I get them?
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I have seen razors somewhere with removable pins. I'm thinking of making custom scales and I like the idea of being able to take them apart to clean.
Are there any disadvantages to this approach?
Where can I get them?
Not to be rude about it, but did you bother searching anywhere?
Try searching for micro fastners the metric size of M2 should be about right.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/showthread.php?t=10999
I'm afraid saying "not to be rude" does not excuse the behavior.:nono: :)
Thanks for the link though.
this is more what I'm looking for only in relevant sizes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by heliguy
So... How do you excuse being too lazy to search for yourself? :gth
Ok before this gets out of hand, the come back was an attempt to inject some humor to diffuse apologies if taken otherwise.
I have searched long and hard to find what I'm looking for and still have not found it even with your link. A search will only be successful if the correct terms are used ie. micro / fastener and not screw / bolt internal treaded bolt / shank nut all used to no avail maybe if you could put the correct name to the item in the picture above I might be more successful in my search.
Gentlemen, further squabbling will not be tolerated and that includes excuses for previous behavior. Apologies to each other are most welcome, though.
this comes close but I would like something with a closed end and long shank so the razor is not pivoting on threads. I guess its hard for me to describe. So far all results are very industrial and not very decorative.
http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet47.htm
by way of appology what you are looking for is a threaded socket or rivet.
The trouble you will have is getting them small enough (ie. in M2 size). the smallest I have found is about 4.5mm across with an internal thread size of 2mm.
This size would require boring out the hinge hole in the tang and an unsightly large hole in one or most likely both of the scales
My apologies and thanks for the link.
Or these may be of some use also. Found here http://www.knifeandgun.com/catalog/p...ns_1516348.htm
John
I believe that Robert Williams aka PapaBull has used something similar to what you are seeking. A PM to him may have you in the right direction.
Ray
That first nut looked like what I know as a PEM Nut. The serrations are swaged into a metal plate
I have in fact done numerous searches to locate something that fits the bill. I've tried pems, two-piece rivet sets, cutler's rivets, threaded rod, etc... and mainly what I find is that the available options are simply too large. If anyone comes up with a source, please let the rest of us know where they are...
Hey John,Quote:
Originally Posted by johnmw1
I think that is what they are looking for. Have you ever used those? I have a few, but am not quite sure how to go about using them....for a few reasons, the middle threaded-tubing is either too wide for the hole in the tang, and is always too long to fit between the scales and would have to cut it down to fit. I'm not sure how to drill the tang, or to cut down the tubing! :shrug:
SO, they just sit in my 'parts' container.....
Any advice would be great!
C utz
The Dremel cutoff discs should cut without any problems.. It it's only slightly too wide to fit, you can grind some metal from the outside by using the grinding attachment.
Exactly 'which' cut off disks or grinding wheels do you mean? I have trouble with some of those disks breaking (dangerously throwing pieces of the disk) or the grind wheel not doing much at all....
C utz
If they're brass, even a fine-toothed steak knife will cut them. I have an el-cheapo Chinese knife for that specific purpose. Dremel has a burgundy-colored stone grinding attachment that removes brass like there's no tomorrow. Same with steel lol.
Sorry Mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by C utz
I haven't used them yet myself, but it was Bill Ellis who put me onto them. I think he said that maybe the tang hole had to be drilled out, and then they also had to be cut to exactly the correct length. He seemed to think it was a bit fiddly, but it was far better than the alternative :)
John
Here is what I have. It's a torque screw, and I bought them from knifekits.com
(http://www.knifekits.com/store/s-pag...main.htm~smain)
I have one next to a 'dovo pin' (that classic shaving sells) as a size referance...
C utz
Hi C utz,Quote:
Originally Posted by C utz
That looks like the go. You didn't waste much time in getting some did you :D
So what size did you finally settle on then?
John
I think it's the 1/8 tubing....(that's what my ruler tells me :) )
But I still have not tried them yet. I am still a little partial to the original style of pinning....
C utz
C utz,
I don't want to split hairs, but what you have is a Torx screw, not a torque screw. A torque screw implies some type of locking mechanism, like decreasing lead threads, interference fit or flattened threads. What you show there, and what is listed on the knifekits.com site are Torx head screws. Torx is a another drive type, similar to slotted or Phillips, but was developed by Textron. It says nothing about the thread engagement, only the drive mating mechanism. My point here is that I would still do something to hold the screws in, such as using thread lock.
Take care - John
PS I am assuming you bought the 1/8" barrel sets that they show on their pages. If so, how long are the barrels? The length isn't listed on the web page. thx
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnmw1
Quote:
Originally Posted by C utz
Chris, the only thing I'm concerned is the length and whether you will have enough for the screws to really engage the threads. For this application, drilling out the pin hole, may be the best idea. Let us know how they work out for you.
That is a concern of mine too! The size of the barrel once it is sized down, and the lack of threads. I would think to use 'Lock-tight' or what ever that liquid stuff is that holds after the setup is made.
As for 'Torque', 'Torx', tomato, Tom-a-to, whateva' ! But seriously, I see what you are saying (that is I can appreciate the difference it 'types' of set ups). Since I am not the best at spell-checking my work and often mis-refer something, I added the website link for clarification.....
WITH that said, the barrel on that is 1/8" thick, and (I do not have it here) the length is about 1/2" long, perhaps smaller, but either way, that puppy will need to be cut down to a size in which there will be very few threads to 'play with'. Which is what I think Robert Williams (Pappabull) was refering to when he was mentioning them (way back when). I know he uses these, or a similar get-up for his recent work/scales.
I have no plans right now to work with the torx screw set up. It takes me long enough to find time to work on a regular (traditionally pinned) set up of custom scales, and even with that, what I start with is not always what I finish with...
We'll see :shrug:
For what it is worth, I hope that helps in some sense. If anyone has some insight, please post!
C utz
Here's what Feather uses on their Artist Clubs
http://straightrazorpalace.com/image...e/Feather1.JPG
http://straightrazorpalace.com/image...e/Feather2.JPG
-whatever
-Lou
Well done scarface thats exactly what i was trying to describe.
Now does anyone know were they can be bought, book binders use the same design but much larger and call it a bookscrew.
I can get you as many as you want...they're $250.00 each ! _";"Quote:
Originally Posted by Heliguy
But note the size of the hole through the tang - it's definitely larger than the standard....what...1/16" pin?
now don't bother me....I'm trying to get everything back together.....and having a heck of a time with it, I might add.
(...too many little bits...not enough fingers...)
-whatever
-Lou
===========================
Why do we fear change, one of the two certainties in life.
Paul
u-m-m-m-m....because the other one ain't so hot?
Quote:
Originally Posted by scarface
Hi Lou,
Are the scales on the Feather a lot thicker than usual to accommodate the head thickness of the screw, and is it the underside of the screw head which has created those indentations in the scales?
Nice photo's by the way, new light box by any chance?
Cheers
John
Yeah, the scales are probably a little thicker than normal - the screw heads are counter-sunk, and provided with lock-washers (which you can see in the counter-sink holes).
But do note that the holes in the tang and scales are oversized to accomodate the threaded rivet post.
No light box yet - still just me and the dog!
-whatever
-Lou
The screws are a 2-56 thread. To properly engage, you need a minimum of three turns. This equates to about 0.11 or a little under 1/8 inch for the length of the barrel. That's about 2.75mm for those of you outside the US.
Rick