So i have done a few restorations now and i am starting to think about balance. so my question is for those who use metal wedges, What is your favorite metal to work with for this and how do you go about it.
Thanks,
Kyle
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So i have done a few restorations now and i am starting to think about balance. so my question is for those who use metal wedges, What is your favorite metal to work with for this and how do you go about it.
Thanks,
Kyle
I just finished one on Sunday I used a brass spacer.. Used an old key and ground it to shape. Came out pretty nice.
I haven't done any myself, but own several with lead - that's the ticket :) At least for old school vibe. Nice when you need something potent for balance also
I have made both lead & brass wedges
the lead is easier to work with being soft & more suited to original restores, but potentially toxic
were as the brass is a bit harder but looks better as it polishes up real nice I think
Brass and aluminum both work and polish very nicely if you don't get them too hot grinding and sanding them down to flow seamlessly into the scale ends.
lead is super easy to work with. It is easy to shape, easy to find, and inexpensive. You can get a roll of it from the fishing section. Hammer it out snip it to rough shape and final shape with 220. Easy.
If you're worried about balance, I don't think the wedge has enough weight to make much of a difference, unless it's made of some kind of super-dense material.
I have used copper, brass, stainless steel and lead. As far as weight, Lead is heaviest but copper and silver are close and not too expensive (like gold). Tungsten is denser than lead but hard to work with.
I think you would be quite surprised at the difference that little bit of lead doeseth make.Quote:
Originally Posted by Amenrab
I'm no expert but I've taken a few razors appear now, some with lead wedges and I can say fir sure you do notice if it's not there :)
its all physics. a little extra weight at the end feels like a lot more in the middle. Thanks for all the responses. I will now have to see if i have any random keys around the house. I never would have thought of that one. might go pick up some lead to try as well.
24 carat gold has nice weight and is easy to grind. You could start with a Double Eagle and grind it into a nice wedge.
When I do renovations at work, I'm always on the look out for material. The aluminum track cut offs from pocket doors I keep, old wood burning fireplace flu knobs are usually brass. I have one I've cut wedges from. I even have a silver 50 cent piece I've been eyeing up.
Wouldn't that be like.....a 30 dollar wedge ? Send me the grindings please or your old vac filter :<0)Quote:
Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY
I have made lead and brass. All depends on the restore job I am doing. Both are easy if you know the secrets. My DVD is only 25 dollars plus shipping and handling :p
This one would work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/371082204535?lpid=82
pffffff that guy is crazy. Trade that much for 20 dollars ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Avenolpey
Jerry, you have a music CD?
What do you play, the grinder or the buffers?
10Pups you nailed. Total rip off.
I can't bring myself to cut it up. Like you said, the waste would be not worth it. But it might find itself on the end of a brush.Quote:
Wouldn't that be like.....a 30 dollar wedge ? Send me the grindings please or your old vac filter :<0)
MY ESP is working today Andrew....I knew you were going to think that :<0)Quote:
Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY
DVD Marty DVD. Me playing guitar while grinding razors with my toes :<0)Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
just don't forget to post some pics when it doesQuote:
Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY
Yea, you could simply glue the $11,000 Double Eagle to the top of your favorite brush. Of course only Silver Tip Badger would warrant this enhancement.
BY the way Cowboy..here is a good thread on balance. 1 of many that I did not read deep enough into again to find pictures but this should get you an answer without the side show. Okay, without as much sideshow :<0)
http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ced-razor.html
Funny, since I started rebuilding razors I look for potential scales and wedges everywhere I go: keys, thick guitar picks, little random bits of wood, metal, and plastic are slowly filling my scale and wedge drawer.
I never throw anything out,This is about a tenth of the crap I have stored away.
Attachment 170036
Goldmine? I see beautiful white gold.
Attachment 170038
Not, is just common every day natural white materialQuote:
Originally Posted by ncraigtrn
Those are his baby teeth :<0)
big beautiful pre-ban baby teethQuote:
Originally Posted by 10Pups
Pirate treasure maybe
I learned long ago never to throw out anything,I save everything because down the road if I toss it I will need it.
Hell I have pint jars of Ivory dust,works for repair work on non-razor stuff,I also have jars of ebony dust:(
I would be tempted to try good old mild steel. It is easy to work with, readily available, inexpensive, and is relatively heavy. I know that it can rust, but so can the blade itself. With the proper care that any good razor should receive, I think that it would work quite well. I was actually thinking of making a brush with mild steel fittings. You can also "blue" it, color it with a mild acid like lemon juice or heat color it.
When I worked on HH-53 helicopters we used depleted uranium for blade weights when balancing the head of the copter. See if you can find some of that, massive weight to mass ratio just don't put it in your mouth or breath it when sanding it.
Here's how I make accurate wedges using a drum sander and material taped to a door wedge. The wedge slides along the 'gate' at the right and this generates a wedge of the same angle in whatever material is used - Ox horn here. This works great on wood, bone, horn, acrylic etc., but when I tried the method for brass, aluminium or nickel silver I have problems keeping the material in place due to heat build up.
If anyone has any tips I'd be grateful.
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8695fc9d.jpg
No help with the heat problem,are you using a luthiers friend made by stew mac? Great tool for scale making.
Yes, exactly right. It was quite expensive getting it shipped to the UK but probably the best investment I've made - really good quality which means you can thickness blanks very accurately and with minimum fuss. The only slight problem is that I had to take the drum down a little as the 50mm drums over here are just too tight compared to the 2" in USA.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
I just experimented with a wooden doorstop until I found the correct angle - then by chance this rubber one had about the same. There's no longer ang guess work or sanded fingers now.
