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Just wondering...I've seen some interesting file work on some of the pictures I've seen here (Billy seems to like some sort of wheat pattern). How does he do it (really...how?) What kind of file do you need? How would do set the pattern (sharpie)?
I have a razor that is beyond redemption (big ol' chunk missing in the middle) so I'm thinking...why not give it a try.
I take it you're talking about filework on the blade. Bill posted a bunch of pics of Josh's razor along with descriptions when the razor was being made. It's slipped my mind what, if any process he used to layout a pattern though.
The thing is, that adding some sort of filing/worked back to a razor is usually done before the razor is heat treated. This way, the steel is soft and can much more easily be filed off. I'm sure there's a way to do it on a finished razor, but I don't think standard files would cut it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToxIk
Ah... that makes sense. After the metal is treated, it would be a lil' bastard to file. Good point!
Anyone else got any ideas or thoughts?
There are diamond or tungsten carbide coated files you could use to modify a hardened blade. Expensive files, though.
This might be a frustrating reply, but I had an 8/8 Henckels that had it's spine filed 'after the fact'. However, I do not know what files were used....only that it can be done. So, it IS possible. I know Bill knows how to do it, and Robert Williams too (I got them in contact with the guy that did the work, I believe his name was Dave Thompson), but from what I know from their conversations, it is best or easiest to file prior to hardening....Maybe Pappabull could chime in on this?
Incidentally, it's the razor that Bill Ellis works on in his Blog on making custom scales.
C utz
I use swiss files made by valorbe on my knife spines when I do file work, but as I differentialy harden my blades the hardest my spines are going to be is about Rockwell 52, I don't know what razors are hardenend to.
From what Robert Williams was mentioning (he had a few tested, and makes 'em his self, so I'd imagine he knows the hardness), straight razors (carbon steel) are usually around 63....
BUT, as always, I could be mistaken........
C utz
A ceramic file will cut the razor after it is hard. The razors, when hard, are about the same as a metal file.
Rick
I've never heard of those....but then again, there is a LOT I have not heard of :DQuote:
Originally Posted by rickw
I imagine that they are expensive, and not something someone would buy to tinker around to try....
What about a titanium file? Do they exist? Would they even be useful?
C utz
Available at spyderco. Same material as their stones. http://spyderco.com/catalog/list.php?genre=sharpener
Rick
hmmm...so a ceramic file seems to be the answer. Just thinking that maybe someone could take a file and put something nice on the NOS Polish razors...just a thought
The Spyderco files are on the order of 1000 - 1200 grit. It will work but is probably slow going by hand. I'd be tempted to find some alumina or zirconia ceramics, such as an insulated electrical standoff, and chuck it in a drill. If you want to cut faster, the alumina grinding bits at Widget Supply http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/...-ao-cylinder-1
are hard enough, but also harder to control.
Rick
When working on hardened steel you really have to watch out for the friction heating the blade. If you heat it up too much you can ruin the temper of the blade. Going slow and feeling the blade to make sure it doesn't become too hot is the best way to go. Patience is a virtue.
Diamond files will work on hardened steel. Standard needle files will get ruined trying to filework a blade that's been hardened properly. It's best to do the filework before the heat treatment, but if attempting to rework an old blade, that's not an option, so you have to use something that can reasonably shape hardened steel. diamonds, ceramics are two workable options.
Thanks Robert, just the guy I was hoping would chime in. Hmm...diamonds (Darling...can I borrow your ring? Just for a moment...what? what am I doing...nothing...)
Carbide burrs, double cut, fine, from jewelers supply in a rotary tool. Also the cutoff disks work. Use a magnafier and safety shield. Doc Molenaar is file working a lot of his heat treated knives with these tools.