Needing a new buffer

I am looking to buy a new buffer on a budget. I have been looking for a cheap but decent quality in variable or 1750 rpm. The harbor freight 6in is looking pretty good but from what I can tell they're single speed 3600 rpm. I am not afraid of the higher speed but I'm not sure exactly what compounds I should use with the higher speed. I'm not new to buffing by any means but I'm just curious about if I go cheaper with the higher speed will I just end up spending more buying new compounds. I have never used greaseless with anything higher than around 2k. Can I use the same compounds with the higher rpm and smaller 4in wheels for heat reduction or is there something else I should order?

I use the HF 3" grinders because 1)they are cheap 2)I can set up about 4 or 5 of them with 3" cotton wheels 3)they are variable speed 4)they are small and can but stowed away giving me a combination work surface/buffing station.

I haven't seen the 3'' grinders. I will check them out. What speed do they run at?

After looking up the 3in grinder from what I have read in the specs and reviews on it you can't buy the buffing wheels alone also its apparently not variable speed anymore. That is if I am looking at the same grinder you are using. I'm going to the store in the next few days and I will look at what they have in stock. It would be nice to have something that cheap I could use regular greaseless compounds with. If not I will either be stuck with the 6in or possibly looking elsewhere for a 1750 rpm. I'm still not sure.

This is the one I use Bench Grinder with Flex Shaft
I get them with a coupon and they usually run about $28. You can buy the buffing wheels from just about any source but if they come with the 1/2" arbor hole you need to use a spacer.

There is a formula to use for SFPM which is the really important number hit that link for it and much more info on buffing

How To Buff And Polish - Caswell Inc

You can run 4 inch wheels in the HF 6 Inch buffers and essentially slow it down..


Old Washing Machine motors are either 1750 or 1100 RPM and if I had known I could go to our dump up here and yank them I would have, they run forever and a day and are usually pretty heavy duty for HP rating too...


As mentioned already if you head to HF then look for the Discount coupons they issue online first, usually you save 25%

For a few dollars more, buy the 6 inch buffer. As said with the coupon or on sale even a better deal.

The 6 in. buffer is a true buffer, where the 3 in. is a grinder. The buffer has longer shafts, making buffing 3 in razors easier. I know guys have used the 3in, but I think the 6 in is a much better buy for 5 buck more.

I have a 6 in HF and a Baldor. They both do the same thing. I run 4in wheel on both, actually all 3, I have a no name Tawnies buffer I bought at a flea market for a couple of bucks.

Smaller wheels, frequent dipping in water and a light touch will prevent heat problems. You can use all the same compounds on each, just you technique will change a bit.

Buy good quality wheel, maybe more important than the buffer, I buy from Caswells, at least 2 for each grit or compound.

I've got a couple of Baldors, one @ 1750, and the other 3,000 something. Got them for purposes other than razors many years ago. Still running strong. You can save a buck or two with the Chinese HF or help an American worker keep their job. I know most people don't think about that, the cow being so far out of the barn, no sense closing the door. Just my thoughts on the matter.

Buy a baldor,never have to buy another.

Very happy Baldor owner here, too.

I also have a Baldor, but I still like the feeling of making something from someone's trash. I never throw away any electrical parts, just ask my wife! Washer and dryer motors have a shelf to themselves.

Like Glen said scrounging parts off a washer can be the best way to go. Some of the washer/dryer motors can be two-speed, so please do not use them unless you are familiar with them. Look for ones that still the I.D. tags on them and you can read. I am sure if you ask for help someone will be able to.

I would love to have a Baldor but price is a huge consideration. I try to buy US products when I can BUT I have to watch the cash outflow and right now there is a raging torrent of the stuff gushing from my bank account.

Look for used, I bought my Baldor for 40 buck at a flea market. Needed some cleaning but once cleaned runs great, it’s a 1750 speed.

Check pawn shops and Craig’s list if you are looking for a Baldor.

If money is an issue and you need it now, you can’t go wrong with the HF 6 inch. The speed is not that big an issue.

H.F also has a plug in speed adjuster I would guess its just a variable resistor. I have been using it with no ill effects to the buffer. but it adds another $20 u can use another 20% coupon.

There is also the build your own approach. I would look for most any American made TEFC totaly enclosed fan cooled motor. Baldor motors are the best, but there are a lot of well made tefc motors that are up to the task. I would scour Craigs List and check with motor rewinding shops to find an appropriate motor. Open frame motors, do not fare well in a dirty shop.

I would recommend a belt guard, and placing the switch in a better location, it you decide to do something similar.

Here is my set up, for a little food for thought. It offers a good deal of speed and wheel size variability. Just tossing out ideas.

Charlie

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdOV5ktMt94

Geez, I'd hate to be impaled by that thing walking into the garage. I like those tapered arbors they make changing buffers quick and easy. I went ahead and bought the HF 6" buffer today, after discount and coupon I paid $20 for it. But as usual, I couldn't get out of there without spending another $113 on a bunch of other goodies. Managed to get the buffer and a 15# anvil home on the motorcycle.

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Originally Posted by spazola

There is also the build your own approach. I would look for most any American made TEFC totaly enclosed fan cooled motor. Baldor motors are the best, but there are a lot of well made tefc motors that are up to the task. I would scour Craigs List and check with motor rewinding shops to find an appropriate motor. Open frame motors, do not fare well in a dirty shop.

I would recommend a belt guard, and placing the switch in a better location, it you decide to do something similar.

Here is my set up, for a little food for thought. It offers a good deal of speed and wheel size variability. Just tossing out ideas.

Charlie

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Nice setup Charlie. What do you use the left side spindle for ? Seems a little less free space.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

Nice setup Charlie. What do you use the left side spindle for ? Seems a little less free space.

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I started with the shaft centered pillow blocks. I figured out it worked better with long shaft and extra clearance so I shifted the shaft to right. I use the long side 90% of the time. I use the short side on rare occasions. I told myself I would get a longer one but I never have.

Hindsight, only need one long side, put switch in better spot, make belt guard.

Charlie

Here's one Randy pulled off:
[URL="http://straightrazorpalace.com/workshop/88502-tapered-thraded-mandrel-buffer-sander-finished.html"]
~Richard

I thought about getting the tapered spindles for ease of changing wheels, but with 3 buffers I can line up a progression on the bench, (you don’t need to bolt them down) so changing wheels is not a big issue. I usually buff a bunch of razors at a time.

I also learned you do not need to torque the nuts holding the wheels down, hand tight is plenty good. I do use some larger washers about 1.5 in. OD, (the Baldor came with some nice larger ones) and a small piece of PVC pipe to space the wheels out further away from the motor, so there is just enough space to thread the nut on. Compressing the washers and the wheel by hand is enough to keep them on tight. I can almost change wheels as fast as Charlie… almost.

If your wheels are slipping, you are using too much pressure. The tapered spindles do space the wheels out further, but then you need more space on the bench, it’s a trade off. The distance from the motor has never really been an issue for me with this set up.