Add Jimps to Razor

I have a razor that doesn't have any Jimps, either top or bottom. Is there anyway that I could add Jimps, myself? I don't have a Dremel tool at the moment - someday I'll buy one. But in the meantime, is there anyway to add jimps to one of my razors without a Dremel? I do woodworking and I sharpen my hand saws by myself. I use triangular files to do that. I was thinking that maybe one of those files could be used to add jimps. I just don't know how to proceed. Any help or advice would be appreciated. I guess while I'm at it, maybe I could also get some information as to how to add Jimps if I did have a Dremel tool. Anyways, once again, if anybody has any ideas, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

Kenny

Kenny, I once discussed this with Josh Earl and he said it could be done with a diamond file. I never did try it. I also once read a post by Joe Chandler where he said one way to make a template to space jimps was by fastening a jigsaw blade to the side of the tang. The teeth of the jigsaw being uniformly spaced would give you the correct layout. :gl:

Would love to see some b4 & after pics if you do it!!

Hey mate, this is the best thread I've seen on the subject. Post #18 is something I would like to try myself.

LINK: http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...422-jimps.html

Diamond file as was said, but the jigsaw blade as a guide sounds like a great idea. Would love to see some pics as well.

If you read the link Max says good luck after the steels been hardened, I sure wouldn't attempt it

I've done this on some of my own razors. Buy a "checkering file" they come in different numbers of lines per inch, and are used by gunsmiths to checker the metal straps of handgun frames around the grips such as the 1911 model. Anyways, chose one with the number of lines you want and then CAREFULLY mount your razor in a padded vise, and stroke on your jimps. The first pass of cuts will form the guides for extending the lines and in less than an hour - more like 30 minutes of careful filing you can have jimps that looks very nice and are perfectly spaced.

There was an old post of Charlie Lewis using blocks of wood to clamp the tang. It was one of his first frame backs. He used an hack saw blade with the kerf removed. The hocks acted as a jig to space the jimp cuts uniformly. You have to clamp the tang for each jumps spacing. All this assumes your tang is soft enough to cut with a hack saw.
Joe

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Kenny, I once discussed this with Josh Earl and he said it could be done with a diamond file. I never did try it. I also once read a post by Joe Chandler where he said one way to make a template to space jimps was by fastening a jigsaw blade to the side of the tang. The teeth of the jigsaw being uniformly spaced would give you the correct layout. :gl:

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When I talk to my sister and my brother-in-law about this forum, I tell them how impressed I am with the people here - how I find the members of this forum to be so very kind, intelligent, and helpful. I find Jimmy's reply to be a perfect example of this. Thanks, so much Jimmy, for the very quick, and extremely helpful advice!

Yeah, some sort of diamond needle file will hopefully do the job. Using a hacksaw blade, along with the diamond file, is a very good idea. Placing the file in the gullets (the 'V' shaped spaces between two adjacent teeth) of the hacksaw blade should help prevent the file from 'skating' around when starting the grooves/jimps. Also, by passing a piece of chalk over the teeth of the hacksaw blade, I should be able to control the depth of cuts, and keep them more uniform, as well. I will keep filing until I just barely remove the chalk in the bottom of the gullets of the hacksaw blade. Of course, this is all how I hope it turns out. We'll see. And it might take a while, to gather up everything I need, and then to gather my courage to try it on actual straight razor :-) But when I finally get around to doing it, I will be sure to take before and after pictures. I think I will practice first on some old knife or something. Some sort of hardened steel - the harder the better!

After I try the diamond file method, I think I'll buy a checkering file and try that method as well. I'll be sure to report back as to which method works best for me. I think the main problem I'm going to encounter with both methods, is trying to do this on a super-hard piece of steel, without annealing it first. Maybe, with enough muscle power, I can overcome this? I guess i'll find out, one way or the other.

Thanks again Jimmy, for your fast and very helpful response. Thanks to everybody else who responded as well. This is such a great forum because of all the terrific people who participate in it. Thanks to one and all!

bruseth

Kenny

Here is at least one way it is done. Good luck.

Attachment 174819

Here's another way. Knew it was here somewhere.

Kenny,
Most of the blades we shave with will have a tang & spine as hard as any file, so I wouldn't recommend that route. Doing jimps before heat treat is by far the easiest way as the steel is pretty soft and a file will cut it fine. To add jimps to a vintage razor a diamond file may work (use light pressure to not break the diamond bits away from it's adhesive) or a abrasive cutting disc will work I know. Using a dremel and getting the spacing "perfect" is near impossible, but I am sure there is a way to build a jig. Just didn't want you to go out and order a checkering file and ruin it on the first couple of strokes...

There is a chance that the tang is soft enough to cut with a hack saw, I have known this and the spine also. It only needs to be soft enough.
There is only one way to find out.

Joe

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deckard

There is a chance that the tang is soft enough to cut with a hack saw, I have known this and the spine also. It only needs to be soft enough.
There is only one way to find out.

Joe

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With a Sheffield blade you could risk this. With a general Solingen blade, the tang will be the full 60+ hardness and you'll likely ruin the file.