Firts attempt at razor restoration. Advice requested.

I ordered two used razors on ebay. Compared to most used on ebay these look like they are in pretty good shape. No huge dings in the edges and not a lot of rust. They have what looks like black plastic handles. Also, one razor box comes with them. Not sure the significance of the box. The razors belonged to the seller's grandfather. They were passed to his father and then to him. I've considered maybe this will be one of those stories where I end up with special razors. Doubt it though. What I plan is to try cleaning and polishing the blades and making new handles. The biggest area I need help in is restoring the blades. What rust removal products and methods do you guys use? I have lots of Dremel tools and accessories. Not sure if they will help with restoring the blade though. I have made knife handles and a couple razor handles. I made handles by cutting/shaping/polishing the scales, drilling a couple of holes and using a pin/screw for the pivot and end of the handle. I've never used standard pins.

Any threads, videos, book recommendations? I want to learn tips and "tricks" that help. I feel I'm more in the dark where the blade is concerned. Any help is extremely appreciated.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html
I have to quote someone because it is important, I'm not sure who I'm quoting, "rush a restore and ruin a blade". Dremels have a use and a place, there are several threads on how I ruined my blade with Dremel, do not hastily use a Dremel on your blade. I hand sand and I am happy to do it. I have other options but that is my preferred method. Read the thread and then you will know much more.

Got the two razors I ordered on ebay and one box today. Here are pictures of them. One has significantly more rust on it but it seems to be only on the surface. Nothing too deep I hope. The other one is mostly rust free. Especially on the blade. More rust on the tang.

http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf22ffee2.jpg

These are the individual blades. This one is the cleaner of the two. The edge at the toe seems to be a tiny bit closer to the spine than the heel. I haven't done anything to them so far. Would you be concerned about this or should I just pay attention to the results on the edge when I start honing?
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps79e74233.jpg

More rust on this blade.
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3169ae71.jpg

Here is a picture of the razor box that came with the razors. Check out the price. Any ideas how old this box might be? The razors have no markings at all. I don't know if one of the razors came in this box or not? Is there any reason to keep the box? If anyone wants the box send me lots of money and I'll mail it to you.
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps990502ea.jpg

I would appreciate any direction on how to proceed. My plan is to knock the handle off the rustier of the two and try to get it in good shape. Smooth and shiny. Then I'll concern myself with a handle. Doing the worst one first I'll learn more hopefully. Then the other one may be easier. ??? Make sense? If not let me know. I may try to hone the cleaner razor just to get more experience in restoring an edge that is in bad shape. I plan to go slow on these two. I'm eager to hear any suggestions.

Oh yeah. After looking at these poor quality photos does anyone think I bought a couple of $10,000 collectable razors??? If you think I did, send me $10,000 and I'll mail you one. I'll even throw in the other razor and box. :)

I wouldn't do anything with that rusty one until you can get a bevel set on it.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

I wouldn't do anything with that rusty one until you can get a bevel set on it.

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Why not? Is it because why waste time on a razor you can't hone and shave with? Or some other reason? Thanks.

I think he means set the bevel first if it was successful then start cleaning it up so you don't waste time on a razor that you can't set the bevel on

The first thing I do on a restore is try to set a bevel on it. If rust, pitting, or micro cracks have eaten into the edge then large chips can break out during the bevel set. It is less heart breaking to have the blade crumble in half at the beginning then after you have spent 50 something hours shining it all up and have it crumble at hone time.

So set a bevel on it, if it sets, great, bread knife it for safety and start polishing. If little chips break out of the edge, work it back until it is no longer chippy - or until there isn't enough blade left for you to be happy with.

Two words of caution. First, wear safety glasses on the bevel set - rarely does it happen, but chips can fly back you. Two, when polishing it up you will also be sharpening the bevel - so just because you started with it dull, by around 800 grit sand paper that edge can cut you up again.

Yes, the rusty one needs to be tested for edge retention. The rust pattern is similar to cell rot, it may not hold an edge.

If it is cell rot do not keep with any other razors, it can spread.

Start by cutting off the rust with a single edge razor blade. Then clean with steel wool, 000 / WD40 and read the Workshop Wiki, that will answer most of your, how to questions.

As Shaun recommended, go slow and remember Everyone, that has used a Dremel on a razor… has a horror story…. Be careful.

A rusty, hand held, razor sharp object and a high speed rotary tool has ER all over it.

one of the things i have learned (the hard way) is that rust goes deeper than just the surface. it's good advice to make sure you can set the bevel and have a good edge before proceeding. as far as the box goes, it's never a sure thing that the box is the one that originally came with the razor. i would guess that the one in better shape will make a good shaver, i have a unmarked razor that looks similar and it's one of my best.

I think I got a good bevel set on the rustier razor. Took longer than I expected. I'd look at the edge with a 60x or 30x loupe as I progressed. Even after the edge looked pretty good to the naked eye I'd look closer and see micro-chips on teh edge or darker sections on the bevel. I kept honing (320 Shapton glass BTW) and finally all the darker spots and chips were gone. Then I used the 1k and now I'm pretty sure I have a good edge. All new steel. So I think I'm ready to start getting the thing pretty. Then hone and shave. Then I'll decide to put a new handle on it or not. Does what I've done so far sound ok? More suggestions?

Thanks.

Be careful using a sub 1K stone to set a bevel, it will leave deep stria on the steel and that stria can cause micro chipping in the final finishing hones.

It is better to use a 1k to set the bevel and keep the sub 1k for edge correction, even then use very little pressure.

It is common to use too much pressure when we want to something done quickly to see results, as in a test.

Crumbling, micro chipping at the edge is what is common from rust.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

Be careful using a sub 1K stone to set a bevel, it will leave deep stria on the steel and that stria can cause micro chipping in the final finishing hones.

It is better to use a 1k to set the bevel and keep the sub 1k for edge correction, even then use very little pressure.

It is common to use too much pressure when we want to something done quickly to see results, as in a test.

Crumbling, micro chipping at the edge is what is common from rust.

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DANG! Your post describes my thinking as I was working. Do you have camera's in my house? :) I did a few strokes with the 1k and not seeing results fast enough I used the 320. When I continue I'll make sure the edge has a good 1k finish before finishing the honing. I'll be sure no 320 grit scratches remain. Anyway, sounds like you knew what I was thinking and doing. Maybe there was a time you did the same many years ago??? :)