Getting the rust in the jimps?!?!

I have acquired a fair amount of razors in the past few years and alot of them only require a good cleaning / hand buffing. Most of these have the troublesome rust / dirt /grime resting in the jimps. Has anyone found a good method or tool to fit in between the jimps for cleaning up and NOT unpinning the blade from the scales? This is a troublesome spot for me and bugs the crap out of me when a blade cleans up great but the rust / dirt / grime in the jimps is still there staring me in the face.

Thanks for any posts or sharing of techniques.

Also looks like I posted this in the wrong forum and not sure how to move it.

When restoring a razor I first remove the scales. Next with an old toothbrush and small brass brush I apply CLR and scrub the razor. I rinse frequently and repeat the process to remove as much as possible. DO NOT let the razor soak in CLR. Then I finish with bartenders friend (a scouring powder like bon ami) and brass brush. This gets the razor fairly clean so you need less sanding. Works for me. Am sure there are other methods out there.

The method that works for me is to use the tip of an annealed x-acto blade and scrape off the rust. I follow up by polishing with a little Maas metal polish.

I have to admit I do not like to unpin a razor either so I just use a small brass brush, put some polish on the jimps and have at her but carefully so as not to damage the scales. You don't get all the jimps though unless you unpin the razor.

Bob

Depending on how deep it goes or how fine the jimps are. I fine getting right down into the depths of the real fine jumps more challenging. I use a small wire brush to start most often, it it is needed I graduate to a wire wheel on a dremel, and if need be I follow with 4or600 grit wet dry glued to a piece of wood, making something that looks a lot like an emery board for doing nails. I have to say it is very hard for me to get them pristine. I have better success with the scales off, but not everything gets that much effort, there are some that get to the line of that is as much work as I am willing to put into this razor.

A fiberglass pen is a nice tool for a quick cleanup between the scales. If I have the scales off, the polishers with some emery compound does a great job on jimps. If there's a lot of rust I may use a wire brush first.

For light rust I use a small brass brush. For heavy rust I use a small triangular diamond file, I think it is a 3 mm.

+1 to the fiberglass pen

To remove rust the Dremel Detail abrasive brush is the best thing I have found to remove all the rust between the scales. They are spiral plastic fingered wheels impregnated with grit and come in different grits.

There will still be a bit on the sides, use an exacto knife to scrape it off.

To polish the jimps, a worn 600 grit greasless wheel will make them shine like new. A wire wheel or brush will remove the rust but not make them shine.

Fiberglass pens work well but the fibers are a pain, literally. When I have used them, I do over a large piece of news paper then carefully toss the paper. The fibers get everywhere. Wear safety glasses. You can pick them up at electronic supply stores.

As said unpinning is the best way, if there is heavy rust at the pin you will not get it by cleaning around it. But if is light rust these Detail Abrasive Brushes, as Dremel call them is the way to go, they come in different grits and sell for about 5-7 dollars. They do last a long time, been using the same one for about a year and still going strong.

I bought mine from a guy on Ebay and he sold a selection, two of each grit and I think 3 different grits for around 20-25 bucks, as I recall. Shop around Ebay to find a package deal. The ones without the quick-lock are cheaper and work the same.

Here’s a pic of what they look like, don't know if this was the same vendor I bought from. Here

I'd be real careful with a Dremel. It can very easily 'grab' the razor and pull it out of your hands.
Wouldn't use one (again(;-( )

Yea, rotary tool are or can be dangerous and every one that has used one on a razor for any length of time… has a horror story.

The spiral nylon wheels do not grab like a wire wheel. They curve away from the work surface, which is why they work so well, should the wheel get stuck, it just breaks off.

Where you have to be careful, is near the edge, always keep the rotation of the wheel in mind, and wear safety glasses.

SS brush on a Dremel works perfect.

I use the stainless brush too. Yes, a dremel can be a dangerous tool...but so can your automobile if you don't use it properly or let your attention go somewhere else for a second. Stay on task and it will only take seconds.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shooter74743

I use the stainless brush too. Yes, a dremel can be a dangerous tool...but so can your automobile if you don't use it properly or let your attention go somewhere else for a second. Stay on task and it will only take seconds.

---

I tend to agree...not to mention with inattention a straight razor can be quite dangerous as well! Do not use the dremel in a manner that the rotation is inward toward an edge (meaning any edge, not just the cutting edge) and it fairly is benign.

+2 Dremmel low speed. Steel Wool attachment I call it. If you get nervous near the scales angle the wheel to use just the edge. think 45 angle. WD-40 in between scales and a toothpick fix me right up. Real overkill sandpaper wrapped toothpick.

To help keep me and my razors safe while using a Dremel I use a foot pedal. It gives me great control and two hands working. You still have to pay attention to all the other things but it is just a little safer

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BeJay

A fiberglass pen is a nice tool for a quick cleanup between the scales. If I have the scales off, the polishers with some emery compound does a great job on jimps. If there's a lot of rust I may use a wire brush first.

---

Assure that you really are sanitary with this method. The broken glass fibers can enter skin wherever they lie. Don't Ask!! Yes, a serious pain in the butt!
They can be used and, perhaps, should be a wash basin running water tool only. The tiny broken off bits of glass are a problem any where they light.
I spent most of my life's work as an industrial prototype maker and had my bad days with many tools. But, the glass fiber brushes took a long time to use in the most safe manner.
~Richard

Lots of ways suggested above. All good for their practitioners! A Dremel / flex shaft with speed control is useful. The thin brass and stainless steel brushes do a good job. Again, the bristles of the metal brushes do break off and I have had to get them out of my feet later because, for light, I used the Kitchen table and the bits went onto the floor.
Any tool works for many jobs, and when learned can be a wonderful aid. Plan ahead!
~Richard

+1 on the flex shaft, makes the tool a lot safer and allows more detail, a lighter touch.

I have one of the cheap HF rotary tools, it also is small, very light and low powered so it forced you to use a light touch, which keeps you out of trouble.

I used it until I got a flex shaft. Flex shafts can be purchased for 10-15 bucks, a good investment.

When shopping for a flex shaft, make sure it will fit your tool. Dremel has a different thread (coarse thread) than my Ryobi (fine thread) for example.

Remove the bit and collet and unscrew the end to see the thread type.

You can find rotary tools and flex shaft cheap, 5-10 buck at flea markets.

I use the rotary tool with a flex shaft. Works well. The one thing I do is put the blade in a small vise with rubber pads. that way both hands are free to work.

I also use the HF Drillmaster rotary tool. I bought it for the screw cap that holds the collet. My dremel is old (early 70's to work on N gauge model trains). I also have the speed controller from that era. I needed a different size screw cap because the new flex shaft needed a different thread size than the old dremel. When I got the HF Drillmaster home noticed it used a 12v DC power supply. Plugged it into the old dremel speed controller and voila, got it slow enough to work well, but so slow that too much pressure stopped its motor. It takes the dremel collets and tools. So far I have used it with the polishing pads that look like scotchbrite, felt pads with 240 greaseless and Mother's chrome polish. Haven't encountered kickback or anything similar. It takes a looonng time to get through the gook, but doesn't scratch.