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I have a small drill press and I want to drill out the top of the pivot pin with out destroying the scales. Any suggestions on choice of bits? I have been thinking of using a 1/16" flat faced wood bit to controls material removal. Any suggestions or advice would greatly appreciated.
Let me suggest a self-centering 1/16" drill bit. I use one in a pin vise with decent results.
Let me suggest the file and punch method. Because the risk of damaging your scales will be much less than when you use a drill press. Especially if you haven't done this yet.
Blue Painters tape over pin, file flat, use a 1/16 Split Tip in a "Pin Vise / Pin Drill" you can get them started that way for sure, but honestly you probably will not need the Drill Press if you have a Pin Vise.. You can use one if you want...
PS: You might note that 3 fast answers came, and not one of us recommended a Drill Press to remove pins :shrug:
As above,use a pinvise and do it by hand,Punch a hole in two layers of masking Tape,about 1/8th in..
Place over the pin,With a fine file, file the pin flat.With the proper bit start drilling (trust your eye,the eye always centers)
When you start to get into the scale material,push the pin out the other side (do not use a punch and hammer)
This may take you 30 minutes.
The main problem with using a drill press is you are dealing with a curved Rounded surface,is no way to make all square to the bit,JMO
Actually 4 Glen :) am real slow on the keybrd.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Whilst not disagreeing with the method described by these venerable gents, I use a cobalt drill in a dremel press - having filed the pin flat beforehand. It works for me.
Aren't we answering the "how do I remove a pin" question about once a week? Maybe a sticky would be in order?
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by Splashone
Been there for years :shrug:
However, each time a question is asked sometimes new answers or ideas are discussed and SRP grows.. So we do have sticky's and the Wiki but conversation is what grew the knowledge in the first place
Gotta go with the guys on this one. I broke more in the drill press than I saved. By hand took longer for sure, that said I have more intact scales going by hand. The main , or one problem with the press is you cant asses what going on in the backside. By hand before I spit the backscale I can access it.
If you are hell bent on trying it as I was at least score punch pin a center spot and only drill 1/16 at a time. re access and find a way to stabilize your work. I use craft store foam . Shop rag bad.
It hard to replace what they dont make anymore. Just saying.
Lastly I WD40 that thing so that its free flowing either way.
I think the way around that is to keep the scales in your hand with your finger supporting the back of the pin. I always use cutting oil and as soon as I feel any heat build up on the pin, I back off.Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003
Yeppers, anytime I do use my press I do it that way, some of the older Sheffield stuff with actual steel pins has gone to the press... Or - Pushing the Pin into the Bit not the Bit into the PinQuote:
Originally Posted by UKRob
And, do not use HF 1/16th inch dia. drills. They are not! They are a renamed metric that is close and can cause a problem in some weird cases and worst of all they are dull and often wander to the side.
Use what Glen says. Split tip drills. They are cheap enough and a local Fastenall can get them in a week and they are about $2 ea. MSC carries them also.
Get a half dozen!!!
~Richard
And use of the small metal lathe to do that also with the tail stock, almost closed, chuck to center the pin/washer and feed it onto the drill in the mail lathe chuck...Mark one eyeball to assure alignment angle.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
~Richard
Richard, I respect you as a Machinist,I know it would work,but not for a noviceQuote:
Originally Posted by Geezer
So brief summary is Quality bit. I use Home depot quality, Titanium if its there . Ace hardware brand also.
Score the area first.(Punch Pin)
Lubricate the work , but not slippery, sloppy, you want free flowing.
Push the work(scales) into the bit.
Finger behind backpin to feel heat and movement .
Go slow.
Also this is NOT the recommended way. You null and void the warranty. But if your going to walk that mile....
Best of luck, I am pulling for you, and a status report would be appreciated.
I have used the most dangerous tool around for straight razors...a dremel for removing pins. I have a round ball carbide bit that I use once and a while to remove the head and then tap through. Fair warning, any amount of pressure and the bit can gouge the scales quick...ask me how I know!
Personally I use flush cutters to slip under the peen and nip a bit, pin vise to start a dimple, and 1/16" punch very very carefully to push through enough to remove the scales. The press is faster but if that pin is warped you run a high risk of drilling through the side into the blade and scales, or lord forbid the scales just cracks at the hole. Slower is better imho here
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiddle
Same here, :shrug: (Highly Polished Flush Cutters as not to mar the scales)
I thought we were all only talking about the maybe 20% that the flush cutters could not clip and punch in less then 30 seconds, I put a drop of Kroil on the just clipped side before punching the pin out, sometimes that means it basically slips out with just a light push...
Just came in from the shop, from popping 4 sets only 1 required using a pin vise, 2 slipped right out after clipping & Kroil and 1 needed clipping on both sides and working back and forth to release from the middle..
Many arrows in the pin popping quiver for this little Indian :p
Thanks pixel, I have not worked on a lathe or milling machine in over 30yrs. My grandfather was a master machinists and welder for more than 70yrs(he stared when he was 17 in the Navy) metal is in our blood. I do not have the equipment more the practice to go the bench route. I have decided to make a jig and use the pin vise for the removal and a second flat plate jig for the installation.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
Sort of...I bought these off Amazon they look like nippers with the pointed ends but the bottom of the jaws are machined flat with just the very tips at ~30*, this lets me wiggle them in and the angle slightly raises the edge of the peen then the flush bottom slides into placr and makes the nip flat.
If you can find a small enough "center Drill" I would center drill the pin after flatening with a file then use the proper drill in a pin vice to remove the pin. This type of operation about the "FEEL". Learn to feel torque so you don't break off to many drill bits.
Slawman