It seems that most in the knife handle forums will plow though wet\dry sandpaper up to 2000 grit with fiberglass polish at the end.
Is this the preferred method people here have found as well?
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It seems that most in the knife handle forums will plow though wet\dry sandpaper up to 2000 grit with fiberglass polish at the end.
Is this the preferred method people here have found as well?
Well, wet/dry paper 600-2000 seemed to do a good job.
Maybe a little wax burnishing and call it good...
Getting the scratches out in G10 is the most difficult task. I spend most my time on the lower grits up until 600. Then I move on to 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, followed with white rouge on my buffer. If I see any tiny surface scratches left I go back to 400 or 600, depending the depth of the scratch, and move back up again all the way to the buffer. This is what works for me.
I'll have to get a bright light and see how I did. This material sure has a great feel when sanded to the high grits.
Well, my preferred method of polishing G10 is having someone else do that in exchange for money :)Quote:
Originally Posted by tab
I don't touch it myself. Nasty stuff.
I've found the polishing compounds designed for metal work well on G10. If I want a high gloss finish I hand sand up to 1200 grit then buff.
Don't work with it much,as above is nasty stuff.When I have I will sand to 800 grit,than polish with rottenstone and oil.
Attachment 192966
I mainly sand G10 on a belt grinder, but did it a few times by hand too. Basically sand to the highest grit you are comfortable with, than buff with a metal buffing compound, no need for anything fancy. The less you have to buff, the more detail stays, and your corners and edges stay nice and sharp.
Wet sand and with water and then throw out the water; carefully like down a drain, not onto the lawn. The little pieces of glass fiber will be in the air forever and pets will have the problems. Ditto if your kids and pets hang out in your shop.
Paying a price
~Richard
Thanks for all the input and ideas. I had read the dust was bad so a respirator was in use... I did use my sandpaper wet as well to keep dust down.
Hoping to get a wedge made and pin up a blade next weekend. So far the results are as good as I'd hoped.
Wish I would have seen this two days ago, some very good info there Max. Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximilian
Just finished putting a Joseph Rodgers & Sons in a set of G10 and had a real hard time getting most of the scratches out. I used 1200 grit before going to Chromium Oxide on the buffer. There are still some very light scratches left but I figure you'll have those just from normal use so I'm not going to worry too much about them.
That is the reason I only work with kirinite. That is acrylic, and relatively safe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer
G10 should be treated like asbestos, and since my daughters are in my shop sometimes, I don't want G10 or Micarta dust there.
Any dust that got thrown around and settles somewhere in your workshop will stay a hazard as long as it is there.Quote:
Originally Posted by tab
If you wear respirators while grinding, and then next week you disturb the dust wile not wearing respirators, you're still breating in the nasty stuff.
Hobby lobby has sandpaper wet/dry up to 12k.
