A ? or 2 on Evapo-Rust.

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Originally Posted by Aldwyn

Same experience with rubbing off for me, too... though I used a low grit sandpaper to try and get the rest of the blob off that EvapORust did not get off. (soaked one blade twice, 24 hours each, sanded, another 24 hours, sanded... this was a serious blob!)

I wonder what the difference was in the steel that caused Heart's stain from hell?

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Yes - same here, I've soaked a blade for 24 hours, gave it a major sanding and cleaning, then back into the solution for another 24-48 hours, and through the grits sanding, and have virtually got a mirror finish. I have a matcher pair of W&B 1/2 hollows, with the VR Crown stamp, the blades are mirror finished, and the brittle, dry, twinned horn scales are not soaking in Neatsfoot oil, will probably leave them there for a week, then the final grit polishing of the blades before I go insane trying to hone them...which I may in fact just send out...but the stuff works like a charm for me.

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Originally Posted by Phrank

I get the exact same blackening with the Evapo-Rust, and it literally just wipes off with 1000 grit sandpaper. After a first round with the 1k sandpaper, it's gets a scrub with toothbrush and toothpaste, then a good long round of sanding with the 1000 grit, then 2k, 3k, then 4k grits and I end up with a close to mirror finish.

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I wouldn't call the use of sandpaper "just wipes off":)
Unfortunately it was an afterthought to try it when I had finished the blade. It wouldn't matter so much if I had started with the treatment, then the blackening could be dealt with over the normal course of restoration. There still is the fact that it did not remove the black rust from the pits and what effect the removal of carbon from the blade has. The amount is probably too small to matter but I still see it as a sort of "case softening" :)

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Originally Posted by Hart

I wouldn't call the use of sandpaper "just wipes off":)
Unfortunately it was an afterthought to try it when I had finished the blade. It wouldn't matter so much if I had started with the treatment, then the blackening could be dealt with over the normal course of restoration. There still is the fact that it did not remove the black rust from the pits and what effect the removal of carbon from the blade has. The amount is probably too small to matter but I still see it as a sort of "case softening" :)

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Yes - it's all in the experimentation, I've managed to do 4 blades so far to completion...with two soaking in neatsfoot now, so I'm such a noobie at this I probably don't even qualify for the all the letters in, "noob"...I am looking forward to seeing how the old, dry, brittle scales do in the neatsfoot though.

Interesting, next blade I do I'm going to add in some of your experiences...thanks, great thread!

The gel I used didn't blacken the steel, it just dulled it a little. It works a lot faster too. Going to try it on an FBU with lots of rust to see how it does.

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Originally Posted by Phrank

Yes - it's all in the experimentation, I've managed to do 4 blades so far to completion...with two soaking in neatsfoot now, so I'm such a noobie at this I probably don't even qualify for the all the letters in, "noob"...I am looking forward to seeing how the old, dry, brittle scales do in the neatsfoot though.

Interesting, next blade I do I'm going to add in some of your experiences...thanks, great thread!

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I completely agree. Euclid440's old thread on Evapo-Rust was informative, but read a bit more like a review. This discussion has been very educational on the use of this stuff in regards to our narrow intended use. Keep it coming!

Tangent: is there a concentrated version? After pouring $850 of repairs into my car I paid $250 for 6yrs ago, I've decided to drive it till the wheels fall off! I'm gonna need to do something about the holes rusting their way through the underside of the frame, though. Evapo-Rust seemed like the easiest, no experience needed way to get rid of the rust before prevention efforts began. Can't soak the car in it, though. Lol.

+1 on this thread.
Restored about 10 razors now, and thus far have only ever used mechanical or abrasive techniques for rust removal and restoration.
Never even considered chemical means to aid in the oxidation removal pre everything else..

I just had a douh moment...:idea:
Will be getting me some dip for my next projects..
Thanks..

Honesty I use evaporust and sometimes naval jelly but only as a total last resort. Either way they must be treated right away, seem more prone to rusting than blades where I have used mechanical means to remove rust. More and more restores I do the more I seem to be gravitating back to good old elbow grease and patience. Most short cuts just seem to have downfalls to them I just dont like to deal with. Most all my stuff is done by hand now with occasional use of a buffer but again I even am using buffers and rust removers less and less if at all.
Also I have changed how I do "restores". It used to be all about getting as close to a mirror finish as possible, now there are some blades that just have a gorgeous patina that in my mind just deserve a cleaning and oiling and sometimes removing active rust at the pivot. I have a Candrian American Straight as well as a Karnak More Amreican straight I am working on now that I will be doing very little too. They remind me of a total working mans straight that have a certain beauty in their look of functionality and having been used but well cared for.
Anyway I have rambled on enough but my summation is in my experience rust removers are my last resorts. Thats just me and how I have chosen to do my restores. To those that have great success with them I think thats awesome but they just are not for me unless I dont see any other option.

I only use the evapo rust on blades with large rust spots or large amounts. I use a large mason jar and it works great. The blacking is a bit unsettling at first but sanding brings the shine back easily. I have left a blade in it for 3 days and its still my sharpest shaver and no problem with corrosion at all. You have to be VERY careful with naval jelly the instructions usually have a warning but it will eat through the metal if left too long. Evapo rust binds to the rust only. The label says it can be used on leather, upholstery and other things to remove rust stains. It stinks to high heaven but no gassing off that I've seen. A good tip is to swirl the blade around after every few hours to dislodge bigger bits. No it wont take out the black pits because they are holes with corrosion stains. Naval jelly will because it eats the metal as well as the rust...I just don't trust the stuff on my razors personally.

I wonder how an ultrasonic cleaner loaded with Evapo would do? Overkill perhaps.

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Originally Posted by Hart

I wonder how an ultrasonic cleaner loaded with Evapo would do? Overkill perhaps.

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I believe I read here once that someone put a razor in an ultrasonic cleaner and it turned it black, ruined it completely IIRC?