Could someone tell me the preferred method for removing a chip like this. I have a idea. But would appreciate help from those with this. Its to nice for me to want to screw it up. THANKSAttachment 200341
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Could someone tell me the preferred method for removing a chip like this. I have a idea. But would appreciate help from those with this. Its to nice for me to want to screw it up. THANKSAttachment 200341
It is big enough that to take it out from the edge up will remove a lot of steel, however it will give you the opportunity to keep the blade close to it's original shape. On the other hand you could round the toe and loose less steel but change the blade shape slightly. I would most likely round the toe. It is a tough call though. It is really tough to say without having it in hand. You could take a felt pen and draw how much you will have to alter the blade on the blade. The pen will come off quick and easy with alcohol, but could help you decide. I would start that on my fine DMT that I think used to be a 325. If you are going to take it from the edge start with a high angle and work it slowly lower and lower and then go to a 1K before it is all the way out.
cant add anything to this other than keep changes minimal and if unhappy with the look you can do something more aggressive later. you cant go back after an aggressive move. rounding the toe a rezdog described is the best option in my opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
Totally agree with RezDog
Another vote for rounding the toe. You'd remove too much metal moving the edge up.
I really like the points. I'd like to keep original shape. Honing out is my first choice. But i see a lot of time and tape. But its my prefered style blade for my goat. Ive managed with round toe's. Better results w/ pointsAttachment 200354 ill try honing first, at least it wont be so round if i dont like results. Thanks everyone.
As said, you can round the tip or narrow the blade, neither attractive option. The third solution and one I would do is, make it smile.
Draw several tracing of the blade on a piece of poster board, experiment with curve shapes, removing the chip and curving to the middle with a marking pen. I would begin by tracing the spine and matching the curve of the spine to the edge. Cut out the shape of the spine and trace onto the blade tracing.
Experiment with design, on the tracing until you get a shape you are happy with, then cut the shape out with a scissor and trace onto the blade, colored ink is easier to see. I would remove as little steel as possible, you will not have to remove much to get a nice smile.
Flip the blade edge up and file to shape with a diamond plate or diamond file, do not use a Dremel or belt sander, the metal is thin and will go quickly, take your time.
You will end up with a great looking blade and super shaver.
+1...I'm with Marty on this one. Looks to be a perfect candidate for a 'Smiler'...Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
It is a bit wider at the toe than the heal and if you are going to hone it out take a compass and mark a line parallel to the spine and take most of it from the toe an as you work it in it should give it quite a bit of a smile. Do the drawings either on paper or on the blade to get your target geometry figured out in advance of removing any metal.
Sweet deal, I like the idea. I too noticed the width of the toe. And thought kind of the same. Ive never owned a smiley, seen the videos on honing but not sure if metal removal is the same but with added tape to increase angle and quicker removal of material or breadknife the shape to the spine
Check out Glens videos on bread knifing. They are well worth watching. If you are feeling that you are not up for the task today then set it aside for another day or send it to someone to adjust that toe.
the bevel will end up very uneven doing this unless the blade face is reground. the bevel at the toe end being widest being that the chip brings the newly proposed cutting edge up the blade face where the metal is thicker, requiring more honing and removal of metal on the face in those areas to bring everything in plane. all in all, not a good idea to go this route if you care for preserving the look and aesthetics of this blade. if your an experienced honer it wont take that long to accomplish after shaping to a smile, it will just look a little off and more obvious that there was damage at the toe that needed to be accounted for or will look like the thing was terribly unevenly ground from the factory. rounding the toe off minimally is safest and if you don't like the look/feel/ability to trim tight then its easy to shorten the thing by 1/16-1/8" without changing the overall look of that blade. that said, it would look pleasing with a smile to match the spine :D interested to see the outcomeQuote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
Don't see it beeing an issue. Its extra hollow ground. Lots of blade face to chip ratioAttachment 200381Attachment 200383
You could also shorten it :<0) Everything would be the same except for what 1/8" ? I like square points also.
Got a shorty. I want to keep the end of the spine. I like the angled grind
bellied grind? cant tell from the pics. sounds like your mind is made up on going for the smile. i look forward to seeing the results :DQuote:
Originally Posted by outback
Didn't pay attention to that end. You could put it back but what a PITA it would be. I don't know how long it is but I wouldn't call it a shorty with only that much taken off :<0)
I believe your right. That was my initial plans. I might start my packwood full wedge smiley to get the feel firstAttachment 200386
Its the one on the right
+1. Judging from the curved spine it was a smiler once upon a time .Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
