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I have a razor identical to this one with the same yellowing/smokiness on the white ivoroid scales.
I need a suggestion for cleaning the scales. Toothbrush and toothpaste didn't really touch it. Also I have tried thick terry towel cloth with Maas but can't get the brown out of the crevices/low spots. Thoughts?
Attachment 208388
Is it staining or crud?
A small ultrasonic cleaner works miricales, but if it's stained, a compounded polish will be needed.
That's what I have, others may have more. Let's see what they say.
Start with a firm toothbrush and dish washing liquid.
Yes and I would also try some Simple Green cleaner.Quote:
Originally Posted by bouschie
Bob
Scrubbing Bubbles bathroom cleaner,, the non bleach foaming type,,,tape off the blade,,,, let it sit for 4 to 5 minutes with the Scrubbing Bubbles on it, rinse well,,,, use WD-40 to push out the water from the pivot area,,,,
I have used Soft Scrub and a toothbrush on scales with crud.
Some have used Comet and others have used Bar Keepers Friend.
As John says, protect the blade.
I kindof think the brown in the low spots is desirable. It makes the pattern stand out. If you get them all yellow, I don't think it would look as good. You might be dealing with paint down in there from the time it was made.
I thought the same thing, the contrast makes the relief stand out, it looks to me like the way it is supposed to be.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
I agree. As long as it isn't dirt or some other crud build up I wouldn't remove the coloring. I made the mistake of removing the coloring on a set and the scales were really plain looking and couldn't see the design afterwards. I ended up having to use paint to highlight the design just to make them look nice.
Over here ther's a hand cleanser called swarfega - not sure if it's something available in that name for you but it's the kind of stuff you apply before working with grease. One of the guys on the UK forum found it really good for getting ingrained dirt out of knurled razor handles.
It is supposed to be darker in the background to give a shadow relief look. And that darker color is several layers deep.
Yes, it could be that the darker background areas were made that way. Oth if the background areas were textured/stippled that would provide contrast to the smooth areas of the scale but also trap dirt/crud and darken it. That is why a mild cleaner should likely be used with a soft brush to see if it is dirty or coloured. The use of a mild cleaner should not remove paint/colouring if there is any.
Bob
http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5pgsppit.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
While I can't be certain, the browning does appear to be like cigarette smoke stains. I don't believe there was a color on there. That said though, the staining is indeed very similar to the photo, which is not the razor I have. I suppose it would be curious for them to both stain pretty much the same. But then again, the crevices/nooks collect dirt well. It really does not appear to have any color added.
I typically am not one to remove patina on many/most items, and the razor above is a wonderful example where it works well. But, this one really feels like it would benefit. The plastic (celluloid likely) is a nice white and I would be happy if it were clean. But, I'm not sure it can be thoroughly cleaned because the relief is so deep.
I will try a cpl of the suggestions. Scrubbing Bubbles is a good thought. It does wonders on Gillette's. But for anything else it would require a good scrubbing tool which is what I was hoping might come up here. Maas didn't touch it with a toothbrush. Maybe a finer toothbrush.
I used Soft Scrub on the one above. A good stiff toothbrush and maybe 10 minutes of work got it looking good. It was pretty much black when I started.
Keep us posted.
I'll add for the heck of it..
First I use plain vinegar and water to remove soap scum...scrubbing bubbles and some others work well also. I use a 1" paintbrush with the bristles cut to about 5/8ths of an inch to work the solution with little or no pressure. Then I rinse the whole thing well. A rinse in baking soda and water can neutralize any acids present. then water rinse. ( Soda in honing water is a good way to prevent rust also.
I often use a tiny bit of toothpaste on my thumb pad to sorta buff and shine the tops of the fancy work and leave the low spots looking darker. Rinse after.
Lots of ways to do the job!
~Richard
Maas+firearms cleaning brush+elbow grease+time
It's worked for me on several similar celluloid scales.
Thank you for all the input! I kind of amalgamated everything and cleaned up some, but not over the edge - trying to keep the contrast.
I went with a cut off paint brush - great idea! There were some excellent artist brushes in a shop up here, so I bought a decent one and trimmed it down. A great fine detail buffer! I will also check out brushes for cleaning firearms. That is a great idea of somewhere I never would have thought about looking at.
Thnx everybody! This was also my first shave with a Swedish steel like this Hellberg, and I have to say it has a wonderfully soft feel to the edge. I had a terrific shave with it today.
Attachment 209242
Looks great.
