What tools, compounds and general thing Do I need to start restoring razors?

So I have decided to commit to restoring straight razors... I was wondering if u guys could help me out with what I need for this... so far my wife had s been really supportive and has kicked me off with the shapton stones for honing (which I'm still working on that end) also she just bought me a work station with a 6 inch varible speed bench grinder... Right now it has both sides with stones on them which I could not imagine ever using that grit until I start fordging, which I was going to see if I could get the hang of this first... I also have some felt wheels which they didn't have much of a selection at lowes that and not much for compounds.... For custom scales I'm about to be buying a scroll saw unless there is something better I should buy... I kinda remember seeing they have different types of polishing wheels used for different things so if I could be pointed in the right direction I would appriciate it... It could save me a lot of trail and error... I know Lynn goes into restoration in his dvd but I don't know how much info is in here so if u think its a good idea I get that I will add that to my list thanks guys

Polishing - Caswell Inc

That will get you all you need for greaseless and buffing compound.

Get a buffer or 7, ala gssixgun.

Search greaseless buffing with the search field in the upper right on SRP.

Get yourself some blades that are too far gone and practice so you don't destroy something you like by learning to use the equipment.

Get familiar with hand sanding its still the safest way to go and much easier to keep all the lines crisp on the blade. Personally I hand sand to 600 then buff from there.

Good luck, the rabbit hole is deep....:)

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Originally Posted by jfk742

Polishing - Caswell Inc

That will get you all you need for greaseless and buffing compound.

Get a buffer or 7, ala gssixgun.

Search greaseless buffing with the search field in the upper right on SRP.

Get yourself some blades that are too far gone and practice so you don't destroy something you like by learning to use the equipment.

Get familiar with hand sanding its still the safest way to go and much easier to keep all the lines crisp on the blade. Personally I hand sand to 600 then buff from there.

Good luck, the rabbit hole is deep....:)

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Thanks man! Yeah I seen gssixgun shop lol he has a grip... I noticed that he had ones with just one speed... Is that sufficient of do u have to get one with variable speed?

Do read the Library, Repairing and restoring razors, there are tons of great information and sources.

You really don’t need all that much to get started much can be done by hand and really is much safer.

Here is a great video by Charlie Lewis making a set of scales with hand tools from start to finish.

The Workshop forum, is packed with great information and how to tips, study it; there is a great thread there, ‘Show the world how you modified you tools”.

Many a razor has been restored by hand sanding and some metal polish and time.

I would recommend starting out by hand, not with power tools. Starting by hand you get an idea of how things look at a slower pace, you are less likely to damage a razor or yourself, the initial investment is much smaller in case you don't stick with it, and you get a sense of the patience you'll need. (Yes, power tools make things go much faster, but it's never been a fast process for me.) The only exception (imo) is a belt sander for making scales. Rough cutting with a coping saw is no biggie, but I think it's worth buying a belt sander for the shaping.

It may help if you could say what type(s) of restoration work you want to get into.

I didn't realize there are different types lol... I just been buying a lot of vintage razors online and some look like I can restore the scales some look like they need new ones... Some have rust and pitting so I'm looking to pretty much take something that is possibly 100 years old and make her ready to shave again...long term I am trying to see if I could accomplish this the lb if I can I want to start forging custom razors and scales as a hobby... I figured this would be a better start then to just jump onto foraging.... I have only been in this hobby for a month and I've really taken a liking to this entire world... There is also some back story to why I'm trying to find more constructive things to do with my time but I'm not getting into that.... Just know that all the information isn't just helping someone restore razors for money but also helping someone in a much personal way... Not saying that anyone implied that but I'm just explaining why I'm getting so deep into this so fast...

Some good advice so far. I would like to add to your list a pin vice with a split point drill bit. They are the cats pajamas when it comes to saving old collars. I use corks to back my sand paper. I have also gotten very good use out of my center drills. I also do most of my heavy lifting by hand and finish with the buffer. Remember the goal is to preserve all the fine lines and hard edges while removing rust. I restore that has been buffed out to much looses all those subtle things. Don't get me wrong there are some talented people who can do all that but it takes time and practice.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

Some good advice so far. I would like to add to your list a pin vice with a split point drill bit. They are the cats pajamas when it comes to saving old collars. I use corks to back my sand paper. I have also gotten very good use out of my center drills. I also do most of my heavy lifting by hand and finish with the buffer. Remember the goal is to preserve all the fine lines and hard edges while removing rust. I restore that has been buffed out to much looses all those subtle things. Don't get me wrong there are some talented people who can do all that but it takes time and practice.

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Thank u! I appriciate the info!

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Originally Posted by jfk742

Polishing - Caswell Inc

That will get you all you need for greaseless and buffing compound.

Get a buffer or 7, ala gssixgun.

Search greaseless buffing with the search field in the upper right on SRP.

Get yourself some blades that are too far gone and practice so you don't destroy something you like by learning to use the equipment.

Get familiar with hand sanding its still the safest way to go and much easier to keep all the lines crisp on the blade. Personally I hand sand to 600 then buff from there.

Good luck, the rabbit hole is deep....:)

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Man as I read the introduction these serious came to mind, could not have said it better.
Even after hand sanding, then learning the greaseless, I've come back to hand sanding as a focus. Crisp lines, and less chance of screwing up. Also a Dremel its very useful but also great care is needed with. Bounce around with tools in your process and don't hesitate to stop and re-focus your efforts as not to screw.
***Right a check list until you become proficient!

That's great, the rabbit hole, it really is deep! Seriously. Lol
:D muah hah hah hah hah!!! (Evil crazy laugh)

Here are some of the simplest and cheapest things which work:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...storation.html

~Richard

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Originally Posted by MikeT

Man as I read the introduction these serious came to mind, could not have said it better.
Even after hand sanding, then learning the greaseless, I've come back to hand sanding as a focus. Crisp lines, and less chance of screwing up. Also a Dremel its very useful but also great care is needed with. Bounce around with tools in your process and don't hesitate to stop and re-focus your efforts as not to screw.
***Right a check list until you become proficient!

That's great, the rabbit hole, it really is deep! Seriously. Lol
:D muah hah hah hah hah!!! (Evil crazy laugh)

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i think I got the bench grinder more for my polishing.... I think that everyone has a point about jnot using greaseless... So in terms of my polishing compounds I noticed there are quite a bit which are for what and what works best for our interest

At the top of this very forum in red stuck there :)

Is a thread that we keep updated with absolutely everything you are asking..

Neatly organized too :D

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

In case anyone was wondering about razor restoration I found this thread! Hope it helps anyone who ends up finding this thread!

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

At the top of this very forum in red stuck there :)

Is a thread that we keep updated with absolutely everything you are asking..

Neatly organized too :D

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

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Hahaha lmao that's funny I found that thread right before I seen you posted on here for me.... Thanks glen!

A dedicated buffer is easier to use than a modified grinder. The spindles are longer and the motor is narrower, giving you more clearance to buff something long like a razor.

If you don’t have a lot of clearance, you have to adjust your technique and hold the razor in a manner that could be potentially, more dangerous.

You can and should at the least purchase, spindle extensions, (Caswell Plating) or buy a task specific buffer (Harbor Freight $30-40) for safety. Buffing is dangerous, buffing a straight razor is extremely dangerous, anything you can do to make the process safer is money well spent.

Be careful, go slow and have fun…

So I can buy spindle extensions for my grinder?

Yes, Caswell Plating .com, but they will cost almost as much as a dedicated 6 in buffer from Harbor Freight.