I got 2 wade and butcher FBU and I have questions

Attachment 218156Attachment 218157Attachment 218158Attachment 218159So I've been hearing this statement that the old timers knew what they were doing and to use their scales as templets and use their examples but I've run into quite a few razors now that make me say why in the hell would u do that? Wedges that will end so far from the blade your eyes will have to take a flight just to see where the razor is lol jokes aside I really starting to question why? These pins are way in the front of the wedge when they should be towards the back of the wedge to get the wedge effect...

Which brings me my reason for posting... I have the set of original scales and I unpinned it and was going to call it quits on it but then people tell me it's better to have the originals... And the problem I have with the originals is not the chunk missing but rather the size of that ass end... Now I'm a butt man myself but this thing has waaaaay to much junk in the truck for me even... So I was going to make a new set that used the original wedge and the same style but if I'm going though the trouble of restoring and making new scales should I just give it an update? I know the ultimate decision is on me but I'm just asking W.W.S.R.P do? Keep the original style and wedge, keep the original scales or just change it and make it completely custom and give these ladies a facelift and an ass tuck? Let me know!

As little as possible if they were mine
More value in original and there were always reason the old boys did things and sure they would not add material purely for the sake of it
Check the balance point of the original scales in your hand this will be the reasons for the size and thicknesses most likely

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Originally Posted by Substance

As little as possible if they were mine
More value in original and there were always reason the old boys did things and sure they would not add material purely for the sake of it
Check the balance point of the original scales in your hand this will be the reasons for the size and thicknesses most likely

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Cleaver cleaver! That's awesome... I didn't check yet but that very well could be it... Should I just use the horn with the bite missing?

You can grind up some black horn from another scale that is beyond repair, mix it with epoxy and use it as a filler to rebuild any bug bites.

I would agree with Substance , and keep the rescale as close to original as possible . Nothing is set in stone , and individual taste will vary but your best bet is to keep it traditional when it comes to W&B's. I hope to never see another FBU with green glow in the dark Kirinite shoes. As far as repairing the old scales or making new...Well why not try the repair first to improve your skill set ? If not satisfied with the results you can always make another pair.

Balance. It's all about balance.

That pin is exactly where it should be, as well. Firstly, you get it too close to the end of the scale and it will split-- not a question of if, but when. Secondly, the wedge is both subtle and linear, being a very slight consistent angle which means that pressure at the diverging end will align the scales with the wedge material. Pressure at the converging end will allow the scales to bow further from the wedge. A gentle flat taper and pin located far from the distal end of the scale provides spring and durability.

I just restored a 15/16 with no FBU stamp. It's the original scale profile.
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Originally Posted by puketui41

You can grind up some black horn from another scale that is beyond repair, mix it with epoxy and use it as a filler to rebuild any bug bites.

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+1 as Puketui41 mentioned go with the horn dust in a 2 pack glue
I have used CA glue this way also & has held out for 2 years nearly already
soak the scales in neat's-foot oil for a week first, then when glueing make sure you clean the glue area with acetone on a cotton tip a couple of times to help the bond & they should be right for many years again
there has been a few threads about similar fixes

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Originally Posted by Wirm

I would agree with Substance , and keep the rescale as close to original as possible . Nothing is set in stone , and individual taste will vary but your best bet is to keep it traditional when it comes to W&B's. I hope to never see another FBU with green glow in the dark Kirinite shoes. As far as repairing the old scales or making new...Well why not try the repair first to improve your skill set ? If not satisfied with the results you can always make another pair.

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Originally Posted by puketui41

You can grind up some black horn from another scale that is beyond repair, mix it with epoxy and use it as a filler to rebuild any bug bites.

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Originally Posted by Substance

+1 as Puketui41 mentioned go with the horn dust in a 2 pack glue
I have used CA glue this way also & has held out for 2 years nearly already
soak the scales in neat's-foot oil for a week first, then when glueing make sure you clean the glue area with acetone on a cotton tip a couple of times to help the bond & they should be right for many years again
there has been a few threads about similar fixes

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Okay there are very good points here! It would be nice to learn a sinew skill set and try and repair this horn first! Is there a link to this epoxy business someone can link up.... I will be posting the results as soon as I'm done! I agree with any vintage restoration I will never use anything like kirinite or anything like that... Traditional horn is the way to go with that, I feel those others are more less for custom work...

Thank you all that replied, I always get the best help from this community

Razors were made in their millions - not exactly rarities are they, so if someone wants to use green kirinite, why be so picky? On the same basis, horn has a limited lifespan - yes you could repair it with a modern product such as two part epoxy - or you could replace the scales with genuine natural horn. Now there's a thought.

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Originally Posted by UKRob

Razors were made in their millions - not exactly rarities are they, so if someone wants to use green kirinite, why be so picky? On the same basis, horn has a limited lifespan - yes you could repair it with a modern product such as two part epoxy - or you could replace the scales with genuine natural horn. Now there's a thought.

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Absolutely - many of the old Sheffields I have had scales that were beyond the grave, and new black horn scales refreshed the razor while keeping the traditional look and feel.

Really nice horn is available, the blonde horn is especially a favorite of mine....

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Yes, I'll second Phrank's comment: Attachment 218340

So last night I realized that these scales were actually from two sets of the Wade & butcher FBU.... My wif suggested when I do the auction just let them know on the description that the winner can choose either the new horn with the scales or old horn... Worst case I can use the other set on the other razor.... I gave her a high five and told her now that's a suggestion

Man so I had some black horn with with streaks I was going to use but they ended up cracking when I tried to straighten them out... Soooo I ended up making some black horn scales instead and I'm MUCH happier with this pair! Now the options I'm going to have are in original scales original wedge, new scales with brass bone wedge liner... Brass pins or original brass bullseye pins...l I'm even going to mix and match if they want... It was an absolute great idea from the wife and I'm thoroughly impressed with her suggestion... But all that aside I thought I would post my work I'm actually think I'm really starting to get the hang of this material as I knocked out the entire set from sketch to mock in 1.5 hours... My contour is getting easier and faster which is great!!!! Please let me know what you think and let me know how it looks!


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So I buffed her all out and boy did it just make the pitting just shine though... I had to stop myself even before all the pitting was goneAttachment 218419Attachment 218420Attachment 218421Attachment 218422Attachment 218423Attachment 218424

Should have left the blade alone with just some steel wool and Flitz hand cleaning at the most!!
You lost the etching and almost lost the stamp?! Personally I would have paid more for it in the original condition. Shiny isn't always the way to go! Just my opinion tho!

I totally agree! It still had its black In the etching... I shouldn't have buffed it at all! Sucks... Well u live and learn

May I suggest practicing on some less "desirable" razors to get the hang of cleaning up blades without removing more steel than is necessary.

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Originally Posted by NewellVW

Should have left the blade alone with just some steel wool and Flitz hand cleaning at the most!!
You lost the etching and almost lost the stamp?! Personally I would have paid more for it in the original condition. Shiny isn't always the way to go! Just my opinion tho!

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Have to agree - the etchings have all but been destroyed, removing it's most distinguishing marks, that's a shame, it was almost perfect before, a light clean, even with just a toothbrush and toothpaste would have cleaned it up perfectly.

I'd pass on it now...sorry to be harsh, but wow....

Yea I agree, I regret even touching it to the greaseless because once I did all the pitting was extremely noticeable... So it was either have a blade that looked like a teenagers face or just keep hitting it on the greaseless and I chose to keep going... If u would have seen the pitting u may or may not have done the same, but trust me when I say as much steel as I removed and it still has noticeable pitting...

Thankfully the second blade has not etching but the stamps are on the shank so that works out lol what can u do? I had to muck up sometime it's just too bad it was on this blade.... I can keep kicking myself in the ass or just move on and realize I have 115 other blades to worry about and learn from this one... Never touch anything with a stamp to greaseless to remove patina, patina>pitting so it's better just to leave it as is

also, I would add to it that it would be easier to practice using buffers on thick wedges as opposed to paper thin hollow grinds. Can easily ruin the temper on those thin blades.

Well when you have 115 blades to learn on, it's not always a good idea to choose the most valuable one to start with. Not trying to beat a dead horse here, it's still going to be a really good razor. As far as buffing out the temper of a blade, I hear it mentioned all the time, and I realize it is possible, but how many people have honestly ruined the temper on a blade from buffing? I was under the impression it would have to be hot enough to were you wouldn't be able to hold on to it before it started messing up the steel structure.

When I have sanding blades, I usually see if it has any kind of etching. There are some razors I have sanded and left the deep pitted areas alone. Yes, I left the ugly black spots. . Or even just sanded it down to nice and shiny, used a dremel to get the pitted areas "cleaned" out. Looks like heck too..... Some blades just need a quick "buff" and all is good. Might not be all shiny and even a little ugly.....but it works.

But don't forget.... a straight razor is a tool. As long as it functions, that in the long run is all that matters.

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Originally Posted by Dafonz6987

Yea I agree, I regret even touching it to the greaseless because once I did all the pitting was extremely noticeable... So it was either have a blade that looked like a teenagers face or just keep hitting it on the greaseless and I chose to keep going... If u would have seen the pitting u may or may not have done the same, but trust me when I say as much steel as I removed and it still has noticeable pitting...

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Not only did you almost loose all the etching but you blended out all the once crisp lines. If I were going to tackle that blade (any blade) I would have used sand paper with a wine cork for backing and slowly removed metal while keeping all the crisp lines. It takes more time but I feel it is the correct way to restore a blade. Good luck on your next one! Keep on keeping on!

S

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Originally Posted by Phrank

Absolutely - many of the old Sheffields I have had scales that were beyond the grave, and new black horn scales refreshed the razor while keeping the traditional look and feel.

Really nice horn is available, the blonde horn is especially a favorite of mine....

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I would consider commiting a jailable offense to acquire that one.

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Originally Posted by prodigy

Well when you have 115 blades to learn on, it's not always a good idea to choose the most valuable one to start with. Not trying to beat a dead horse here, it's still going to be a really good razor.

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Oh I've worked on a considerable amount before I touched this one to a buffer... I get it, I messed up on this razor, shit sucks trust me... On the other end I paid $8 on this razor and yes I certainly may have been able to make an extra hundred or two but in the end that's what I bought these razors for to learn.... This just happened to be a lesson that hit my pocket more than I would have liked...

Maybe to recoup some of that loss I took on the over buffing I put a brass lined wedge on it :rofl2:

Still think this will be a fun auction since the winner can pick their poison in a sense... Still look forward to the result


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Oh and I keep a glass of ice water when I'm on the buffer... One pass then I dip, it's a a lot of dipping but it's better than ruining a temper...

All in all..... If selling these razors..... You'll make your money back and then some. Sometimes when people see " FBU", they go nuts! Good luck on the sale.

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Originally Posted by prodigy

Well when you have 115 blades to learn on, it's not always a good idea to choose the most valuable one to start with. Not trying to beat a dead horse here, it's still going to be a really good razor. As far as buffing out the temper of a blade, I hear it mentioned all the time, and I realize it is possible, but how many people have honestly ruined the temper on a blade from buffing? I was under the impression it would have to be hot enough to were you wouldn't be able to hold on to it before it started messing up the steel structure.

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I think the problem area is the edge where metal is thinnest - especially on hollow ground blades. It's quite easy to be holding the tang and spine and not feel the heat build up at the bottom of the razor.

So the gentlemen wanted to have the new scales, brass Bullseye collars, brass bone wedge... Here it is, I ended up closing her at $400 which begs the question what I could have gotten if the razor was in its original condition...

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Very nice. It did turn out nice

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