Wood.

I'm gonna try making some scales in the next few weeks (what a surprise). I've decided to follow the Lewisrazors you tube vid where Mr. Lewis works with just hand tools. Its a nice basic process perfect for a rook like myself.

https://youtu.be/YQm7YToDSpc?list=PL...Taex_OIsgvFJt0

I have sourced out fancy wood to a dude on ebay and have a couple bids on some appropriately sized blanks of higher priced wood (cocobolo, beefwood etc).

Right now i'm looking for ideas of where to get or make blanks to practice with other than the ones i'm bidding on. Obviously Home Depot or the like has lumber, but you guys always have some inside info.. so i figured id ask. I wasn't sure of what wood type to practice on but i think id like something cheaper than the ones i bid on.

The one drawback of the scroll saw i got (Dremel Moto-Saw) is it isn't really capable of cutting 6" wide strips off a block higher then 1/4 inch or so. Its perfect for cutting out rough scales from blanks, just not making them. Can this be done with a coping saw? If not what would be the best type of hand saw for cutting nice thin blanks? I have a coping saw already, but if there's a need for a more optimal tool well then, i need to know about it.

For my first run i'm gonna use Tru-Oil and some Minwax to finish. Eventually i think id like to try button lac but that's for a future project.

Any discussion will be appreciated and thanks for any help in advance!

I've seen a few people do it this way, but they trace the blade on a sheet of paper, mark the pivot and draw in their scales. You can transfer that onto a paint stir stick for a more rigid template. I think someone actually used the sticks for scales.

im a college student in building construction. this means i have access to a build lab in the basement of my building with any and all machinery imaginable. The problem i run into when making wood scales is cutting the blanks. the preferred method i like to use is a bandsaw with a fence to guide my cuts. the one we have is all out of wack and doesnt cut straight, so ive resorted to using the table saw. this is a drag because the blade thickness for a table saw is almost an 1/8", and eats a lot of material compared to a band saw. once i have my blanks the correct thickness, i pretty much do everything else on the rikon 1 x 30 belt sander. the disc lets me thin the scales if need be, and the curve of the belt allows me to rough shape them to exactly where they should be. then its just a matter of progressing through the grits by hand. ive only ever used CA glue to finish mine, so no experience with others but anything thats designed to finish wood should be fine. if you look through my photo albums there are a few sets of scales ive made, wood and horn mostly, using the mentioned methods.

I would check a wood working shop such as Woodcraft. I have one locally that sells exotic woods in 1/8" thickness that is perfect for making scales. I use existing scales to make a paper pattern, then cut out the blanks with a coping saw. I have a grinder so I use that to further shape and polish the wood. Finally, I finish my wood scales with minwax and polyurethane.

i like to use a japanese style pull saw for ripping (cutting with the grain) wood and horn scales. the one i have has teeth on both sides. one side is for ripping and the other for crosscut. i generally start with a 1/4 to 3/8 thick piece of wood (or horn) shaped and sanded with the pin holes drilled and then saw it it half. flip the piece around every inch or so as you are cutting to maintain an even cut.

As far as what kind of wood to use, someone here I think used some paint stirring sticks to make his first set of scales. That may be a good idea to get a feel of what you are trying to do. Real soft wood so should be pretty easy to work with.


Mike

Just last night I used a 16t hand mitre saw to get a nice straight cut through a 3"x6" block of wood to get a 1/8" slab for scales. I was surprised how clean the resulting cut was down the face of the blank, not much flattening needed.

*edit - on second thought regarding the practice materials, if you take it slow I think you can manage to use the nice wood you've purchased. Measure twice, cut once!

Thanks for the replies all.

I looked around for local wood shops and all i can find is a Curtis lumber. A co-worker informed me they do carry exotic hardwoods, so ill have to take a ride over there to check that out. I did end up ordering two sets of blanks off a vendor on the bay, in Mahogany and in Black Walnut. The more exotic woods are still up for bid so well see. Having a few reliable sources of wood online will work. I think half the fun will be hunting down different types to work with.

I did end up going with a pulling saw for cutting blocks into blanks. I got this puppy right here..

Robot Check

..and i like the idea of drawing templates. I seen that done before and i believe using that technique you can sometimes cut both sides out of a single blank. Ill try it.

Thanks again guys!!

I've used wood and would advise that you go with very dense species - the mahogany and walnut are probably not dense enough to my mind. Ebony and Rosewood are good examples of what works well for scales - they have the advantage that they are 'oily' woods so you can finish them with something like Liberon finishing oil.

Snakewood, Desert Ironwood, Olive are other examples with attractive grain patterns - there are lots more so try searching under exotic woods to get an idea of colour, grain pattern and density.

Just remember than many woods are toxic so have a good quality respirator handy when you start cutting or sanding.

That saw is not really for resawing, and not for hardwoods.

It is a cross cut saw and may rip cut softwood, but you really need a saw with half as many rip style teeth, down to 7tpi and a blade stiffener.

Do practice on some poplar as there is a learning curve with these saws and I do believe you will have a difficult time sawing a straight line with that saw in thick hardwood.

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

That saw is not really for resawing, and not for hardwoods.

It is a cross cut saw and may rip cut softwood, but you really need a saw with half as many rip style teeth, down to 7tpi and a blade stiffener.

Do practice on some poplar as there is a learning curve with these saws and I do believe you will have a difficult time sawing a straight line with that saw in thick hardwood.

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I disagree - a blade stiffener would mean you can't cut to the required length. The whole point of a pull saw is that you are not putting tension on the blade in the same way as a push saw. I've used that type double sided saw for ripping - you will notice that the teeth get finer down the taper. It should be fine for hardwoods.

He’s not resawing timber, so should not need that much depth. There are better tools for precision ripping hardwoods.

Yes, it can be done will just be slow and tedious. For a few dollars more he could have bought the proper tool.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

He’s not resawing timber, so should not need that much depth. There are better tools for precision ripping hardwoods.

Yes, it can be done will just be slow and tedious. For a few dollars more he could have bought the proper tool.

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Yes he is sawing blanks - that's the whole point. How wants to rip a 1/2" block into two 1/4" blocks. If you think that's possible with a saw that has a blade stiffener then please show me a pictorial.

And while you're about it - post a link to the 'proper tool' as you call it.