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So this is my first restore. This razor started with some active rust and a fair amount of small pitting. I've worked most of it out. Now I have noticed some blackness possible micro pits in the shoulder. I have cut some small strips of 320 grit and been working it slowly in those creases with a small cut hose. I was wondering if anyone has some tips or tricks for this area. Can't really see it in these pictures but it's there.Attachment 228222Attachment 228223Attachment 228224Attachment 228225
More sanding. :)
You're right, I can't see the problem in the shoulder, but the razor looks great as is. :shrug:
Looking great so far
More sanding is the only fix until it becomes to much
Picking the line is the fun bit
Kinda what I figured. Gonna get back to it first thing tomorrow.
Looks good so far! What type of finish are you looking for?
Thinking mirror finish. Need to look it up so I can keep it authentic. Already have sandpaper to 1500 grit, trying to decide if I want to go the micro mesh route or pastes. Would also need to pick up a dremel depending on which route I take.
Nice looking blade!
Love those DUCKS!!!
When using a dremel use caution! Or any kind of spinning wheel for that matter.
Real easy to have an accident when using those with a sharp object. Read some of the forum posts on using a dremel on a straight razor.
Looks like a Cell Rot victim, common to Double Ducks. With pitting you have to decide how deep you can go. On some razors you will have to leave some pitting or make the razor un-shaveable. Ducks are thin and as the heel shows will not take too much sanding.
You will have to reshape and raise the heel, move the edge in front of the stabilizer, so you can hone the edge at the heel.
Forget about removing the pits any further, polish, reshape and make it a shaver. From 1500 or 1k finish metal polish will be near mirror, just depend on how deep your initial scratches are.
To move the heel up should I just sand that area slowly? Only way I can think of.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ing-heels.html
I think this is what they are talking about for you to do.
More or less grinding the heel down.
No, the heel is reshaped so the back part of the curve is raised and the part where the straight edge ends is forward of the stabilizer. The photos that Onimaru posted in that thread, demonstrate that effectively.
It can be done by grinding on a diamond plate or low grit stone or diamond file.
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Ah ok I have some files and a dmt 95 I can manage that. Thanks again, feel like such a knucklehead with some of this stuff.
I wouldn't bother going any further myself.
But your next one, try this.
Its what I like to use in tight places.
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WD paper cut into thin strips, taped to "new!" #2 pencils. You want new pencils, that way the erasers are flat, and edges are crisp, for getting in the corners and keeping nice lines.
Has to be a diamond file, steel files will not phase it. Trace the shape with a coin and sharpie, dime or penny works then grind to the line.
Got it through 600 grit, fixed the heel with a penny and the dmt plate, worked great. Got work tomorrow so I'll be back to work on it Tuesday. Seems like I came to the right place, small things make the process so much better.
So the razor sat until today. Walked outside and realized that I should have put a light coat of oil on it. Little surface rust. Used some 600 grit and it came right out. Got it up to 1500 and pulled out the flitz. Here is where I'm at now. About to start cleaning the scales.
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Looking good
