What do you guys use to protect blades? I bought a small can of WD-40 nad a small bottle of 3-in-1 multipurpose oil.
Are either of these okay to use for straights? Or any blades for that matter?
Thanks
-Sunny
Printable View
What do you guys use to protect blades? I bought a small can of WD-40 nad a small bottle of 3-in-1 multipurpose oil.
Are either of these okay to use for straights? Or any blades for that matter?
Thanks
-Sunny
Either or, it doesn't matter , everyone has a preference, but oil comes in many forms and then you can also use a wax like Renwax. Or like most everyone I know, if you use it regular no oil at all, just dried properly, I use wd-40 and gun oil, or Balistrol. So your fine. Tc
If you are talking about protecting the razors as they are being rotated from shave to shave,,, then a heavy coat of mineral oil would be fine.
I use Ballistol. It's a great lubricant and protective oil. It doesn't turn gummy over time.
I usually apply Vaseline oil for oenological use (is inert ...so not chemical thins on blade) but I think a Good choice can be fat Vaseline .. Is better if you want repose razor for long time
Mineral oil works great! It's also cheap. It protects and it's easy to remove. I also use it on my oil stones.
And if you're constipated... BAM!
Sandycrack
As has been said, there are many choices out there and WD40 is a good choice. I use the Ballistol as it rinses off easily with hot tap water however I do use the WD40 on occasion.
That's one of the interesting things about those of us who love this age old art of shaving with straight razors and that's 'PP' Personal Preference'.
You'll be fine take your time and enjoy the ride!
It's a Long Strange Trip, but well worth the Journey! :y
Any oil is better than no oil but WD40 over time can evaporate . I learned this the hard way. Mineral oil would be my suggestion. On the razors i use when i'm through shaving i dry and coat with a light coating of mineral and on the razors i store i use not only the mineral oil but also use R. I. G. Then wrap in wax paper from the kitchen for storage. I have used this method for over 30 years on knives and a few razors. It seems to work well.
I treat mine with Tuf-Glide
It works great for me.
4 pts. denatured alcohol to 1 pt. mineral oil, the solution being given a shake. Dip blade in solution briefly, avoiding the scales. Leave opened to dry for 15 mins. so that the alcohol can evaporate before folding up the razor and storing it away.
Something to consider. I have noticed that when i have a razor with a highly polished blade one that has a mirror finish that the mineral oil i use seems to just puddle up. kind of like water on a waxed car leaving areas of the metal with no protection. that's why on the razors i store for any long period of time i use R. I. G. A grease like anti-rust grease. just an observation on some of my razors.
Ballistol is what I use
I don't use any oil as I never have a problem here in CA. If I did use oil it would be Corrosion-X as I consider it the best metal protectant ever.
After reading your post I went to check my razors and two of them had mineral/sewing machine oil puddles. Both of those razors have mirror finishes. The other razors in my rotation were evenly coated. I grabbed a bottle of CLP that I use on my rifles and that seemed to coat them evenly but it was an issue to initially get the mineral oil off before using the CLP. Thank you rhensley for the heads up.:)
As stated I use the Ballistol but when I receive a razor for honing that has any kind of oil on it I give the blade a quick spray of rubbing alcohol and then a rinse under hot tap water. Seem to always clean the blades very nicely.
And about oil 'puddling' I just checked and my most highly polished blade's oil is still very nicely distributed and I haven't used that blade in close to a year. Maybe it's because I use such a thin coat but I don't know for sure. :shrug:
I used a thin coating of mineral oil on those two mirror finish razors and it beaded up. After I finally got them clean I put a thin coat of CLP on them and so far there is no beading. What I'm kind of worried about is if the CLP will damage the scales. I'll be keeping a close check on them for sure.
Any of the things these guys have mentioned will work. You could even use olive oil. One advantage of wd40 is that it will displace water. In fact WD stands for water displacing. The 40 stands for the inventor's 40th attempt at a formula. So long as the razor is completely dry any oil will protect it. If your using it frequently you may not need to oil it at all. I only oil razors that won't be used for some time.
As far as I am aware WD40 makes conditions for rust.
It leaves the surface dry and oil free or leaves a very thin weak coat.
Over the years I have bought numerous Hart Steel razors . Each razor comes with a bottle of oil, ill never run out of blade oil but I only oil a blade if I have just restored it.
If a razor is allowed to dry and not kept in say a bathroom, no rust should form.
I use cutting board oil on mine. I haven't had any problems with it yet and I don't have to worry about putting something harsh on my blade (or my skin). Cutting board oil is obviously food safe and it seems to do the trick.
Ballistol is great. Rem Oil does a good job as well, but Ballistol is known to be wood friendly, hence easier on scales.
Before I was using camellia oil, but I have now switched over to using Ballistol since I feel like it offers longer-term protection compared to the camellia oil