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Attachment 229215
I posted already about this problem in Die Wackerfans.
I am toying with the idea of shortening the part of the scales covering the tang because it gets in the way when stropping. I'd prefer to do it without separating blade and scales. I think I'll protect the blade by covering it with a rag. I'll use some knackered horn scales to practice on. Would you use a Dremel or sandpaper? The sanded-down bit of the scales will be dull. Any thoughts on ways to get them to shine again?
I think it will be more work to do this with the blade pinned. If I were doing it I'd remove both pins and stick both scales together to cut and shape them. Sand up to 800 grit, polish on a polisher and pin everything back together. If you don't have access to a polisher you can sand finer and polish by hand.
Looks like a very nice D Peres you have there too.
I have the Chevalier and agree that it's not the easier razor to strop. However, I think it's as much to do with the big thumb grip as the scales - but if you do want to trim them down then take Bejay's advice and remove them entirely so that you can make sure both sides are symmetrical.
Trying to shape them and re-polish with the blade in place will be far more irksome than removing the pin. Also you can replace the 'nails' they use with proper rod and washers.
I re-scaled mine and find it has made stropping a bit easier than before - but I have the pivot quite tight.
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/...psuxcagcrn.jpg
It's a very straight forward job just unpin the razor slightly shorten then reform the scales polish them repin pretty easy fix actually.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kees
Thank you. Just showing off. She is 7/8 to boot.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeJay
Thanks for the good advice. This would be the first time I unpin a razor with the intent to use the scales again. I am not sure I have the guts to do that...
If you use a pin vise with a split point drill bit, it is very easy to control and cuts quite quickly. A regular drill bit in a pin vise will not bite in without a lot of effort.
+1 to Rezdog, I was inpatient in unpinning 2 razors, so I used the bits I had on-hand. It took a while and my hands were quite sore. I got my pin vise in a hobby store, pretty neat and you'll find all sorts of uses for it.
If you can get your hands on one of these, under $3.00 at beauty supply stores, the gray will slowly work it down & the white side will make it smooth & shine like it was never touched. If the gray side works too slow for you, then use finger nail abrasive boards that come in different grit sizes to reduce the size,,, the finish off with the miracle buff block , mentioned above.
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Attachment 229223
A slice of a soda can between the blade & scales will keep the boards or even the Dremel off the blade.
Attachment 229224
Just some info here KeesQuote:
Originally Posted by Kees
The Wacker uses the same one sided Nails that Dovo and TI use
Only the Backside has a lock washer, and peen, they tend to sit quite high and honestly are very easy to pop
A piece of Masking tape over it pressed down hard, and a small metal file should take it right off, I use a set of flat bottom flush cutters that I have polished the bottom of and they pop them in an instant..
The Wacker horn scales are rather thick so they are also rather resilient, take your time and you should be fine..
ps: This is the Pivot/Tang juncture that you hear me mention so often on custom scale building that needs to be fit correctly for function :) Note how the Vintage scales are also the same size as the tang in your pic and the Wacker ones overhang the tang because they are slightly too big.. This also moves your fingers and thumb off the tang when stropping, which is adding to the problem of proper grip.. Not only they are too long they are also too "Wide" so you are getting the worst possible rotation while trying to strop...
That nails it.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
