I am going to order some smaller sticks of greaseless buffing compound from Caswell Plating and wondered which ones to get?
They have 80-400 grit so should I get them all or just certain grits?
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I am going to order some smaller sticks of greaseless buffing compound from Caswell Plating and wondered which ones to get?
They have 80-400 grit so should I get them all or just certain grits?
I bought 80, 120, 220, 320
I use 80, 180, 240, 400, 600. Although I have them I do not use 120 and 320. So you can save a little money there to put towards the grease based polishing compounds.
I quick question what is your preference 80 grit compound or take it bake to the grinder on 240 grit ??
I use mostly 400 and 600. I don't often go beyond that.
+1 400 is the coarsest I go also
I ordered 600, 400, 240, 180 and Glu-Tite Greaseless Wheel Prep. Not sure if I needed the wheel prep but it sounded like it was helpful.
Yup, 600 and 400 mostly, though I do have all the grits. Mostly I hand sand then buff.
600 is the most versatile grit, I keep 4 wheels loaded in various amounts of grit in a rotation.
A well-worn 600 wheel is great for a quick clean up before greased compounds and for making jimps gleam. Most every razor gets a trip on a worn 600 wheel.
Do mark the grit size on your wheels so you can see the grit over the stabilizing washer. And store you greaseless in an air tight container, I use a plastic Rubbermaid type and Ziploc bags with a damp paper towel in the bag.
I have the Glue Tite, but don't use it, don't need it with sewn cotton wheels.
I use 120, 240 and 600.
I mark the grit on both sides of the wheel and keep them in separate Zip Lock bags.
The tubes stay in Zip Lock in a fridge.
If you have never loaded a wheel before Glu-Tite will be a great aid on a new wheel. I find 80 grit to be my work horse. Once the pitting is removed I don't have to spend much time moving up the finer grits. Mostly I restore Sheffields in the 1/2 hollow to near wedge grind. Pitting is usually pretty deep but there is plenty of steel there to work with. I wouldn't live long enough to clean them up with 400 grit. 400 and 600 are meant more for polishing and you'll find they remove very little metal. If you work with a very hollow ground blades they are thin and it's easy to burn a blade so be careful especially with the courser grits. Keep the wheels loaded with fresh compound and they will generate less heat and cut faster. Sadly getting all the pitting out of thin hollow ground blade just is not always possible unless it's in pretty good shape to start with. I see lots of restored blades here that are still full of pitting. Mostly the hollow ground blades but sometimes the heavier grinds. The restorer either got lazy and didn't finish the job or were smart enough to know when to quit.
Good luck on your restoration journey.
Karl
Thanks for all the suggestions everyone, I really appreciate it.
I've just started restoring and this is a perfect thread to follow as I've struggled with the compound I picked up on amazon. Almost gave up on the hobby because of it. Looking for suggestions on better compound them what I have. Is Caswell a better choice than others?
Eric
Formax Satin-Glo sold by Caswell and Jantz is an excellent product. Brownell's also sells their own brand called Polish O Ray which has a little different grit selection and is a couple bucks more a tube. Those are the only 2 I have used.
As for storage I just twist the end of the plastic tube it comes in closed and butt the end of it against the wall so it will not untwist. As long as there is no air in the bag and the bag has no holes it will stay soft and usable for a long time. The 80 grit on the left in the picture is almost all gone and is still soft. That is a years usage with out any storage problems. I find no need for any special containers or putting it in the refrigerator.
Some folks seem to have storage problems though. :shrug:
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