Printable View
So as the title suggests I found rust forming under the grip in my puma 63. I have unpinned it and can clean it up easily enough but was looking for suggestions as to how to seal the area to stop it from happening again.
Was also interested if anyone knows where to get new pins. It has one side that is already formed and is flat but needs the other side peened as normal. Pisc below.
Attachment 236631Attachment 236632Attachment 236634
Pins look like Dovo pins. Pretty common on the bay, Classic Shave and others. Rust? Seems like a good glue would seal it and keep it from moving. They experts will let you know in a min, I'm sure
Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk
Yep... Dovo pins would do the job. As for sealing the rubber..... My personal choice would be to loose the rubber and not bother, but if you must..... RTV silicone would be my choice. Do not confuse RTV with regular silicone caulk/sealent. RTV releases a solvent, regular silicone sealant releases acetic acid, aka vinegar.... and will corrode the area even more.
The problem with sealing an enclosed area covered by rubber is that you never really know for sure that there isn't a void under the rubber where moisture could accumulate.... If moisture gets in.... corrosion follows promptly. If the rubber collar is clear, you can see any voids.... if it's black.... well, you'll never really know, until it's too late. If you are really really really careful when you fill the rubber cover with RTV and you are dead nuts sure it does not have any voids, you'll be just fine. It comes down to the "dead nuts certain" bit..... and only YOU can know if you are confident or not.
Regards
Christian
It has a depressed section in the tang that is far from uniform or smooth so even cleaned up it wouldn't look good and would also decrease the value as the rubber is original from factory and not on that many razors.
Even if there was a coating I could put on the metal in this area then have the rubber sleeve overtop that would be good. That allows for future work and wouldn't have the chance of irreparably damaging the sleeve which would be hard to replace.
Will have to check out the American bay as on the aussie site there is only one and that looks silver.
In a way you are lucky that your blade is stainless steel. It should clean up easily and if you keep that area from getting wet in the future you should not have too much of a problem with rust. New rubber covers are next to impossible to get, I believe.
Those "nail head" type of pins are fairly new and not original to that razor at a guess. You can get those pins from The Classic Edge Straight Razor Pins & Washers and Revisor Spare parts . There are other places I am sure but those are 2 that I know of.
Bob
Maybe an acrylic paint or sealer might work tnen just place the rubber back over it when dry?
Bob I believe that you are right and it wouldn't be possible to get another grip which is why I am not wanting to bond it to the metal. I am not sure if it's a original pin. I had presumed it was but suppose it could have been replaced by the last owner. Will have to research that now to make sure. Both pins are the same so I will have to do both if its not original to get the look right.
Dion that is the sort of idea I was thinking. Just something to coat it then put the grip back on. I just am unsure what would work for both durability and bonding to the metal. It will get wet at some point. Its quite close to the blade so it would occasionally get a little lather or a drop of water. I always let it dry properly before putting away.
The other problem is that I don't know if this was a problem that was there already and hidden when I brought it and has just recently come to the point where I could notice it or if it is something that I have caused. Better to solve it permanently and not have to strip it again.
What about some kind of tape as a liner underneath the grip? Waterproof tape maybe? Just a thought..
Are you sure those are the new "nail head" style pins because looking at the photos they appear to be the old style?
This might be a help for doing pins the old fashion way Un-pinning and re-pinning a razor - Straight Razor Place Library . That is under "making and repining yer razors" section.
Bob
Without hijacking the thread, is there anywhere to get replacement rubber grips? I have a Filharmonic with a similar issue. Unfortunately the rubber has dry rotted and allowed moisture to do the same. Once the rust was clean, I was planning on using a coat of Renaissance wax to prevent it from occurring again. Problem is, the rubber grip is beyond repair. It just looks funny to me without, particularly when sitting in the scales.
Thanks for sharing the issue with your Puma. It's something I'll have to be aware of.
Could you use a section of heat shrink instead?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ised8em
Ed,
Clear nail polish might work, but i dont really know, maybe some sort of car wax even?
What about in the line of the nail polish etc if you lightly sand the area an then use a thin coat of an aryldite or similar type of 2 pack glue this will seal the area and bond to it keeping any moister between the rubber and glue not in contact with the metal
Similar to glueing liners on tangs maybe
There was a thread here about using the rubber forward part of a certain type of disposable pen that fit and looked almost identical to the Filarmonica rubber grips....
Bob from my Google fu it does look like they used the nail type of pin with one side with a flat head with circle punched into it with collars and peening on the other side.
Dion I hadn't thought of a glue but suppose that may be more durable than a paint. Could even just use super glue. All I want is to seal the area so any moisture wont cause rust there again.
Ed nail polish could work. Could use clear or a silver one and put on a good coat. Wax would deteriorate I think so would need reapplication which I want to avoid as it requires unpinning to remove the grip
I thought superglue might react with the rubber ?
That's the only reason I didn't mention it also like it does with some plastics
This is why I am asking instead of doing.I have no idea what reacts with what and what would be safe. I'm not in a rush I just want to do it right. I wasn't aware it would react after drying. Now I'm not sure about the nail polish or epoxy either. They all have solvent bases so what would stabalize after curing and not effect the rubber?
I use this for all my epoxy glueing on straights and knives
There is also a 15 minute cure version
It holds great to all natural and synthetic materials (haven't tried rubber yet but) and is still flexible when cured even when paper thin
BladeBond Ultra - Artisan Supplies
Works out a lot cheaper than aryldite also
Dion I still want the rubber grip loose on top and just seal the metal so wont be a issue about bonding to rubber.
The small local hardware is closing unfortunately but have to move all stock so hig discounts so once I am finished buying up big may get some of that for future projects. For now araldyte as a basic equivalent should work by the sound of it and I can get it cheap while the wife is letting me replace broken things cheaply. Gotta try get a couple extra bits in anyhow
You can re-fashion a new grip with a product called Sugru - I have a photo of one I did somewhere and will attach it when found. Sugru is ideal because it bonds to the metal and creates its own seal - although a clear varnish underneath would not do any harm.
Edit - here it is - the 6/8" was the one with Sugru. It has a working time of about 30 minutes so I moulded it roughly to shape, added indentations with a small steel rule and when it was set overnight, finished off with a 1200 grit paper. It really does have lots of uses
Attachment 236775
That got me interested and a quick search turned up this How To Make Your Own Sugru Substitute . Might be of interest to DIYers.Quote:
Originally Posted by UKRob
Bob
Here's how I remember reading what another member used to refashion the rubber grip on razors that had them...just a common drugstore pen...happen to see one in my office today so took a pic. The rubber on the end can be fashioned quite easily:
Attachment 236864
Attachment 236865
Since I couldn't find any information on something like this when I searched I will document how I do this so others can find something in the future. If anyone has suggestions or advice along the way feel free to jump in.
First off I cleaned all the rust off with a razor blade then go to grinding off the rest and getting most of the pitting out. This did remove some metal but as I plan to epoxy over the area this gives me room to build it up a bitAttachment 236960
Next was to put the grip back on and mark where it sits so I know where I need to prep for the epoxy.Attachment 236961
After that I took a pin file and roughed up the area I needed so that the epoxy will have something to really grip to. Attachment 236962
That's all I have had time for but will update as I go
Got some more done tonight. Started by just cleaning up the filing lines a bit and giving a good cleaning ready for the epoxy. Then taped the area each side to make sure that I only got epoxy where I wanted it.
Attachment 237187
Attachment 237188
Next I mixed the epoxy and applied to my masked off area. I used one with a long setting time as it's what I had. It had a tendency to flow a fair bit and I spent a great deal of time tipping this way and that while it was setting to keep it all even and stop it from dripping off. If you do this I would suggest something that has a pretty quick setting time. I also used enough to build it up a bit. I will sand and clean it up later so wanted enough to be able to work it.
Attachment 237189
Lastly after I finally got it set enough that I could leave it I removed the tape so that it came off before being stuck in the epoxy and on the razor. Left some nice lines to work with later.
Attachment 237190
I like the look of that as-is....
So has cured now so to start the shaping. Re taped the edges to avoid scratches and use a file for bulk removal till had it roughly there. Then used some 600 w and d wrapped around a pop stick to get it fully shaped. The tape helps at the edges as it creates a level slightly above the metal so once removed you are left with a very thin raised edge with a clean line. Did slightly go through the epoxy on a couple corners as it is a quite thin layer so going to touch that up then carefully hand sand. Pics so far.
Attachment 237350Attachment 237351
Great tutorial mate
Keen to see the progress
The touch up on the corners is cured so smoothed to match the rest then test fitted. All fits nice so using w and d sanded with 1200 and 2000 to finish up to a beautiful smooth finish. While apart took the chance to re black the grip using a marker. Attachment 237388Attachment 237389
look at that, just like a bought one
no one will ever know :beer1:
did the rubber gain any thickness to potentially foul on the scales or is there plenty of room on the Pumas for this anyway?
not sure how long the marker will hold on the rubber, but if it doesn't maybe a leather dye or similar will work also ?? only time will tell hey
Didn't stretch the rubber to get it on so should be no issues with the fit. It seems almost like a paint on it atm. The good thing about the marker is it takes seconds so can touch up any time. The grip does slide both ways so as I use renwax will be able to wax right up unto the epoxy so will able to protect from further issues. Could slide it before but couldn't move far enough to get under properly and couldn't access all of the under grip area. Now the complete area under the grip has permanent protection and I just need to worry about butting up to it well. Still some polishing etc to do but will continue to post progress until finished.
This time reverse things and tape up to protect the epoxy while I clean and polished up the area arond the epoxy to remove any marks and get it looking clean again
Attachment 237467
Here is a pic of it once polished and with the grip on and one of the test fit. Don't have the right pin to put it back together so will order that so a couple weeks before it goes back together. Will post a last pic or two once completed to show it finished and how the grip will move for protecting in the future.
Attachment 237468Attachment 237469
Great pictorial Ed!!
Where are you going to be ordering those pins from?
On the bay. Taylors 1000/ uk merchant has them.
I finally got the pins today so all pinned up. So first is a pic of the grip in the normal position and the 2 after show moved foward and back allowing access for cleaning and protecting and you can see the epoxy protecting under the grip from future problems. Attachment 238874Attachment 238875Attachment 238876
