First successful unpinning

I thought I'd make a post because most of the information about how to unpin a straight razor I got from these forums. I was successful at my first attempt, and I consider myself lucky because I know a few things could have went wrong. The route I went was using a pair of flush cutters and a 1/16 pin-punch, because I thought that would be the easiest method for myself. Besides a drill, I don't own any power tools, no drill press or anything like that. Basically I was able to cut the head of the pin off, and than punch it through (I made a hole in a piece of wood to support the punching). The pin was bent, that's probably why it was kinda loose in 1 section and tight in another when opening and closing the razor. The main reason for unpinning was to mostly fix the scales (they were very warped, which I know is common for Red Imps), and it has made it a lot easier to clean up the razor as well. I was pretty proud that I didn't break the scales.

I had a few questions for you guys. I had a generally plan to pin the razor back up but had a few things I was wondering about.

1. The old pin that I cut off is thicker than a 1/16 inch rod that I was/am going to use, is it still fine to use a 1/16 inch rod to pin the razor? In other words, the old stock pin is thicker than 1/16, can you use 1/16 rod to pin any razor?

2. Do I need to glue 1 side of the wedge back, or would pinning suffice? I noticed there was a glue-like smudge on the wedge although it basically just fell apart when I unpinned it.

3. 2 washers came out from the inside part of the hinge end, I assume I would put those back in or put new ones in the inside? I basically purchased a small pinning kit from Maggards and it included the 1/16 rod, and both types of washers, the wide ones and the smaller ones.

Attachment 247849

First
Do not glue the wedge. Use epoxy. Glue is permanent, epoxy not.

Second
The 1/16 rod is fine. The old rod may have been overly peened resulting in the bend and/or thickening.

Third
Use the thrust washers that fell out. They should be fine.

Last
Practice doing pin jobs on popsicle sticks. Do a few before trying to pin your razor.

Here is a link to find members in your area that can assist in the learning process.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/memberlist.php?do=search

Good luck!

Added: Only epoxy one side of the wedge. The epoxy is to keep the wedge from possibly spinning. The pin is what holds the wedge/scales together.

A couple of things on pinning. When you trim the pin it does need to be the right length, however guessing or measuring the length is kind of tricky and requires a little luck. However as you are peening it it you feel it is too long, just file it down a tiny bit. The end of the pin forms into a shape similar to a mushroom and it is the outer edge of the bottom of the mushroom that holds everything together and puts tension on the collar or outer washer. Go slow, a lot of very tiny taps cannot be over stressed. Undream and Gssixgun both have very good pinning videos. You can tape everything together to make it less awkward to begin with.

So, you don’t need power tools to unpin, a hand held pin vise or a 1/16 in bit with a Hex drive head will work just fine, after filing the pin head flat and center punching the start hole in the pin.

Using flush cutters is dangerous, if you are trying to save the scales. It puts pressure on the scale and often breaks them. You got lucky. If you do cut, make the cut, in 2 cuts, apply pressure on the first cut, then with the cutters biting into the pin, turn the cutters 90 degrees and make the cut.

You run less chance of making a burr, that will hang up by crushing the pin, if your dikes are not sharp.

When unpinning it is much safe to lift the scale off the pin, rather than drive the pin through, if it is bent. You won’t know, until you get the pin out.

You can glue or not, does not matter, as the pin will hold the wedge in alignment, though for new pinners, it may make it a bit easier to align all the parts. Just a drop of CA will hold it on one side of the scale.

I like to not glue; it gives you a bit of wiggle room should you have to make an alignment adjustment, before cinching both pins down. It is a good practice to look at the alignment of the razor, before you un-pin, to see if problems exist, before you try to put it back together. You can’t fix a bent blade, but you can plan for some adjustments, or keep from going crazy trying to fix a problem that existed all long.

Practicing on popsicle sticks on your blade, will give you some practical experience, using the old washers and collars, or make a faux blade, from a wooden paint stir stick, use a coping saw to cut it out, (a few dollars and a few minutes), will increase your confidence, when you do the real deal.

You can buy 1/16 in brass rod at most hobby and craft stores for about a buck. Brass is good to practice on, Nickle silver can be a bit more challenging as it is a bit harder.

A 2 or 4 oz. ball peen hammer with a polished head, (sandpaper and meal polish) will make a smooth dome on the pinhead.

Imps are great shavers, enjoy.

I'm just a newbie, so I don't have anything practical to contribute to the advice here. Just want to say that this makes for fascinating reading and it is very educational to follow this thread.

Thank you guys for the additional info. I never thought to practice pinning on a popsicle stick but that sounds like a great idea!

The flush cutters is probably not the safest way, but it was probably the easiest way. You also have to be careful not to scratch the scales when you are cutting (especially in my case when the scales are warped).

My only suggestion would be to get micro fasteners to test fit before pinning.
I have never glued the wedge end on any razor I have done.

Yes, I have a good pair of flush cutters, that I use just for removing scales, but only use them, when I don’t care about the scales, it is quicker.

I was wondering about the new pins being thinner. Are you saying the new pin rod is thinner than the old pins or than the holes in the scales or pin hole in the blade and by how much?

If the blade, that is not uncommon, and with the scales a bit larger hole or a tapered hole, larger on the face and smaller near the blade is a good thing and will help prevent splitting.

Popsicle sticks or tongue depressors are very unforgiving and will split very easily, while pinning, with a miss hit or it too tight. If you can get them on without splitting, you will learn something. Pick up a pack of 50 or 100 from a craft store for a couple buck.

Here is a resource for where to find supplies, is updated, even though it is a closed thread and is the first thread, (sticky) in the workshop forum. It is a gold mine of information, complete with links to other threads and sources and even part numbers in some cases.

Welcome to the Workshop: How do I / Where do I / What do I / answers are here