Did research on wedge metals

I spent a couple of hours researching metal that is soft like lead, has no toxicity and won't tarnish.

Geezer came very close to hitting the nail on the head when he suggested Pewter. I also found a company selling a tarnish free tin based sterling replacement, which was a great hint. I also did a lot of research into which metals tarnish, oxidize or other similar terms.

The short answer is that a certain type of Pewter should fit the bill. Here is a link to a seller, Rotometals.

https://www.rotometals.com/pewter-alloys/

They have three pewter alloys. Copper tarnishes. As it turns out, pure silver doesn't tarnish. Traditional Sterling, which has 7.5% copper tarnishes because of the copper.

One of the alloys they have, R92, has no copper. I ordered an ingot of that. One of their videos mentions that the A/C pewter is more malleable after casting, so I got an ingot of that as well. It is only .25% copper, thus I'm hoping that tarnish won't be a big deal.

I'll report back on these materials once I've actually used them.

Next, several have asked about using solder. I have used this. My hammering hand has been giving me trouble, so I melted it. I did have a few issues with it, though think those are because I haven't learned how to be effective in melting. I was able to produce nice wedges with the solder.

Finally, there is a type of Sterling Silver, called Argentium Silver, that doesn't tarnish. I want to try that one of these days. I couldn't find a sheet thick enough to work, thus it would require melting it.

The issue with melting it is that unlike lead and pewter, it takes very high temperature to melt silver.

I thought some folks may find it helpful and wanted to share.

Thanks, Pete

Knowing the ones that will/will not tarnish will help restorers pick the right metal.

Good research, thanks for the info! I've always suspected that the Joseph Rodgers wedges were made of Britannia metal due to their hardness and resistance to tarnishing: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Britannia_metal

If you're going for period authenticity, this won't help you. But I have had a lot of luck with aluminum and brass for wedges. I've been using aluminum for black scales (ebony, black horn, etc.) and brass for reddish or brown scales (honey horn, cocobolo, the current set I'm finishing with bocote, stuff like that). Black and silver, brown and gold are both classic color combos.

Both are easy to find as cast-offs from other projects (big old door keys, various flanges, plates, etc.-I'm always scrounging around ratty old tool drawers for wedge materials:)), so no need really even to buy anything. Both cut and polish pretty easily, and will buff to as high a shine as you want to accentuate your pinning hardware. Aluminum is especially soft and easy to work, though it heats up lightning fast, which can be a problem if you don't manage it while shaping your wedge.

As for tarnish, certainly both of those surfaces will oxidize and tarnish, but mine stay pretty shiny in a moisture-controlled closet, and a quick buff restores the shine if you want. Just one more option. Aaron

this is great info pete. thank you.

so... whats the best way to separate a small piece off the ingot and shape for a wedge?

The non tarnishing pewter ingot that I bought is a very hard version of the metal. I used a bandsaw to cut wedges from the stick. The I filed and wet sanded them to fit. I like to cause a slight hollowing in the wedge with the outside edges a bit proud to be filed to perfection after pinning. The hollow pretty much assures a tight fit to the wedge and scales. A tapered from both sides hole to the pin diameter at the center of wedge thickness allows much easier scale alignment and pinning.
YMMV. ~Richard

If you don't have a band saw, a Dremel, which comes with a cutting attachment would work well enough.

You could also melt it. I can't remember who, either RezDog or RoloDave, has a cast iron skillet they used to melt lead to a 1/8 sheet. I would like to figure out how to cast them. Below is a mold I made from clay that can withstand the heat, though I have more to learn before it is effective.

Attachment 265539

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pete123

I spent a couple of hours researching metal that is soft like lead, has no toxicity and won't tarnish.

Geezer came very close to hitting the nail on the head when he suggested Pewter. I also found a company selling a tarnish free tin based sterling replacement, which was a great hint. I also did a lot of research into which metals tarnish, oxidize or other similar terms.

The short answer is that a certain type of Pewter should fit the bill. Here is a link to a seller, Rotometals.

https://www.rotometals.com/pewter-alloys/

They have three pewter alloys. Copper tarnishes. As it turns out, pure silver doesn't tarnish. Traditional Sterling, which has 7.5% copper tarnishes because of the copper.

One of the alloys they have, R92, has no copper. I ordered an ingot of that. One of their videos mentions that the A/C pewter is more malleable after casting, so I got an ingot of that as well. It is only .25% copper, thus I'm hoping that tarnish won't be a big deal.

I'll report back on these materials once I've actually used them.

Next, several have asked about using solder. I have used this. My hammering hand has been giving me trouble, so I melted it. I did have a few issues with it, though think those are because I haven't learned how to be effective in melting. I was able to produce nice wedges with the solder.

Finally, there is a type of Sterling Silver, called Argentium Silver, that doesn't tarnish. I want to try that one of these days. I couldn't find a sheet thick enough to work, thus it would require melting it.

The issue with melting it is that unlike lead and pewter, it takes very high temperature to melt silver.

I thought some folks may find it helpful and wanted to share.

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I can second on the Argentium. Does not tarnish and keeps very well, much like .999 fine silver. Although it does not look as "white" as .999 fine silver. Once annealed, it is easy to work with. Can be poured, but yes, requires a lot more heat that lead or pewter.

Nickel silver holds its sheen as well, and is close to the density of lead. It's on the hard side though, so it takes a bit of elbow grease.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pithor

Nickel silver holds its sheen as well, and is close to the density of lead. It's on the hard side though, so it takes a bit of elbow grease.

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And, it also may be annealed. Heat to red and quench in cold water. It is a white brass, non-ferrous material. Because if that, it work hardens quickly and may need some extra annealing steps while working it to shape with a hammer and filing to flats. It does fill a file and scratch easily, so chalk coat your file before use. Old files work best for the softer materials.
YMMV
~Richard

Good information, thank you for sharing!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Geezer

And, it also may be annealed. Heat to red and quench in cold water. It is a white brass, non-ferrous material. Because if that, it work hardens quickly and may need some extra annealing steps while working it to shape with a hammer and filing to flats. It does fill a file and scratch easily, so chalk coat your file before use. Old files work best for the softer materials.
YMMV
~Richard

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And Richard to the rescue once again. I'll give that a go some time next week, thanks!