NEVER.
NEVER
NEVER
Face the edge side of a Straight into the oncoming direction of a buffing wheel.:gaah:
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NEVER.
NEVER
NEVER
Face the edge side of a Straight into the oncoming direction of a buffing wheel.:gaah:
Was coming out so nice too.................
Lucky I still have the finger it clipped when it shot outta my hand.
I KNEW I shoulda started with one of the crappier ones I had before going for the best of the bunch.
Feel like SUCH a dumbass now.
You are very lucky that you only lost a razor!
We all make mistakes when learning how to do things and Im glad you weren't seriously hurt. A decent sized buffing wheel can easily send a blade flying with enough power and velocity to cause serious bodily injury, and thus shouldn't be done, certainly not without something that seriously protects the person from the blade.
The error here wasn't destroying a nice Wade & Butcher - it was the risk of injury to you.
Also, being hard on yourself doesn't make sense. Part of the human condition is making mistakes.
I don't polish vintage blades for this reason. I'll bet some other members will have input on how do do this safely as we have a lot of folks that restore vintage blades.
Seriously consider a shop apron, preferably a leather one.
You are very lucky.
Feel your pain, and your blessings buddy.
glad you can still type, see, urinate properly, don't need sutures, etc.
Put it on Ebay...I've seen worse razors selling on there. Just list it as "minor cosmetic chip" it'll be all good.
Seriously happy to see you're ok.
Ouch, that hurts-you can tell that was gonna be a beauty too! Live and learn. Every time I get complacent around a buffer, it teaches me instant respect real quick!
Here's one that kicked out and got a 1/8" semicircular chip out of the edge about 1/3 of the way down from the point. Besides avoiding injury, I was also lucky that the chip was clean and didn't cause a crack. I didn't take any post-accident pictures, because I was pissed. However, I did come back to that blade a few months later and she cleaned up right proper:
Attachment 265488
Well, this one was $55 as I recall, but that bought enough blade width to make the save.
As has been said--you're lucky you just lost a razor.
Here's a couple of tips that I Always Use.
#1 Wear Eye Protection when in the shop
#2 Always buff from Spine to Edge
#3 The wheel should be turning Toward You.
#4 With the wheel running (and turning toward you) Always have the razor or whatever you are working on NO HIGHER THAN THE CENTER OF THE WHEEL! If you look at the side of your wheel and imagine that it's a clock. The center is at 3 o'clock. Typically I work at the 4-5 o'clock area.
Have Fun, Work Safe! And mount that destroyed blade somewhere close to your buffer to remind you of the above. :tu
Another lesson learned was ............... put a sponge rubber mat down on the concrete floor for any possible future mishaps.
Thing turned into instant shrapnel when it hit the floor.A rubber mat might have saved it.
All good tips.
I think I will mount it on the wall.
Right next to the hunk of truck rim shaped like a battle axe that flew off a truck I was following on the highway and came flying thru my windshield at 80 MPH and buried itself in the headliner 10 inches from my right ear.
Another close escapade.................
Started to wonder when my luck is going to run out!
Whaaa! So very, very lucky right there. Sad about the razor, but glad you still have all your fingers!
Gosh if only some really smart people would put all these Hints Tips and Ideas in one spot where people could find them before they wreck a vintage razor and possibly themselves **SMH**
Big HUUUUUUuge thread in RED at the top of this very Sub-forum
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html
Glad your Okay and no blood was spilled
I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't viewed that thead - big red type and all!
:( been there done that. Learned my lesson the hard way too.
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I'm in the midst of my first restoration project. I had thought about going all out and getting the buffing set up, compounds, etc. BUT, I just opted for good ol' sandpaper, and I would tell anybody thinking about starting out it's quite impressive what you can accomplish with just some elbow grease as opposed to greaseless compounds (rather relaxing too!). If you do it right, by the time you hit 2000 to 2500 grit, the blade is shining like a mirror after some Mothers polish.
I'm getting amped and prepared for scales next, and I think I might take a similar approach with minimal tools and patience.
Glad OP wasn't hurt!
You are a lucky man ....
Power tools and razors do not mix.
Polish with walnut hulls in a tumbler.
Count your fingers and other parts again...
[emoji45] Glad you are ok. Blades come and go booger hooks, not so easily.
I did that with a GD and glad it was with junk. I do it all by hand or with a small Dremel and so careful.
Well the good news is that because of this accident you will become highly proficient in the use of a buffer in the future. Your brain will see to that. Thank GOD you are ok....phew!!
Thank you for sharing your story. Fortunately you were not seriously injured. This is why I do my restorations without power tools. I sand, buff and polish my razors by hand. Nothing beats elbow grease and TLC.
I'm sure that chip will hone right out!
I suppose there's some truth to this, you can start at 600-1K and get most of the old rust and black schmootz off with little time/effort. Digging out pitting might be more of a chore, but one has to weigh risk to reward. Even if the razor is in such bad condition you have to start at 120 grit paper, it's very low risk and the final product will be just as good. Just takes a bit more time. And that isn't necessarily a bad thing.
I'm guilty of using a battery powered dremel for some of my faster clean ups. Works great because You can get %95 of the cleanup done in 15 minutes or less with a purple '300 grit' pad on low setting, then finish up with a cotton wheel and some CrOx. But as I found out with a full hollow blade, even when the pad is spinning the right way things can get out of control quick with a hand buffer. I was on the cotton buffing wheel and I guess I put too much pressure on it. The wheel caught the spine, walked up it and all the way around the blade, got hung up on the edge and snapped it in the blink of an eye. Fortunately I dull edges before resto work, and with the way the buffer was spinning it flung the chip away from me. Also lucky that it was just a beat up hardware store razor that had already had the toe amputated, so it wasn't a big loss. Just frustrating and a little scary.
Direction is important, so is pressure. As with all things razor related, less is more.
@Skinflint - Glad you're ok! If you haven't seen the movie series, "Final Destination" you may not want to...
Dang that sucks. This is why I do everything by hand.
Been there, done that! Only takes once and one never does it again. Glad you survived.
I bought an MJ Higgins maybe 6/8 for $2 with a broken and cracked toe, thought I'd take my first crack at reshaping and create a shorty.
Got through the grinder alright but couldn't resist taking a flap wheel on a dremel to some rust on the blade to save some handsanding.
A little into it and "pop". In a split second the blade shattered and a chunk hit my shirt. Took a deep breath and lifted the shirt and no damage.
Another good tough lesson, 100 year old rusty thin hard steel is brittle and fragile.
I am pretty disappointed that the Higgins is now beyond repair though, even though it was broken when I got it.
Put all the warnings and stickies you want but I think we all really only learn by trying, and sometimes that doesn't go well.
I should add that happened a few minutes before I posted to this thread, and as soon as the blade popped I remembered this thread.