I leave the sides of my wedges with 40 grit scratch marks. That will give them a lot of friction when pinning. I've never ever glued a wedge in place. Once you glue, you can never adjust or take apart. Rough surfaces and normal pins do the trick.
Printable View
I leave the sides of my wedges with 40 grit scratch marks. That will give them a lot of friction when pinning. I've never ever glued a wedge in place. Once you glue, you can never adjust or take apart. Rough surfaces and normal pins do the trick.
definitely going to rough up the wedge and scales going forward. seems like an extra 2 minute task with nothing but up-side.
once the wedge is in place and sanded down to the scales how does everyone buff them to remove all the new scratches? ive found that some amount of compound always gets inbetween the wedge and scales no matter how tight the pins. its fine for dark scales (i.e. its there but not seen) but looks terrible with transparent or transluscent materials.
I have a yellow buffing wheel that polishes with out compound and leaves no color marks. I also have a white compound that I use on a specific wheel that is only used for bone, no blade or pins and collars ever touch this wheel.
you sly dog (pun intended). can you really keep a wheel white? not an easy feat. just a touch of metal and that wheel goes dark forever.
It does not have to be perfect, but if it gets a mark from say a pin I rake it and reload it. If you get a stain on bone in can be quite challenging to get it out, also a couple of coats of renwax before any buffing helps keep the stain away. Keeping bone clean in the shop can be a bit of a challenge.
I only once glued a wedge in place, but only because i fixed some damage on the scale at the wedge end and wanted to prevent the fragile material from cracking.
makes sense. thanks for tips!