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I am doing my first scales, and I'm thinking of hollowing out the space for my blade from the piece of wood. Why would that be a good thing? Why a bad thing?
Basically:
+----------------------------------------
++ blade goes
++ here
+-----------------------------------------
I feel that this saves me a pin and will make my material flex less overall.
Don't know if this is where you're going with your question, but I have a couple of razors with only one pin, carved scales coming to the end with just the one pin.
Like this?
Attachment 268666
You can make one piece scales, it has been done before many times.Quote:
Originally Posted by malaverdiere
You do want the scales to flex though, and that is because the tang is tapered. The taper works against the flex of the scales to keep the blade tight in between. If you so not make a wedge then the scale eventually will buckle and the razor will become loose.
Making the scales flex less is the bad thing . They are meant to 'breathe' as the razor rotates because the tang is tapered. It can be done as you describe but it's easier to make a wedge & have 2 slabs IME. You would need to taper your cut to recreate the wedge effect.
Beat me to it Stefan :D
If you take a vintage razor with the traditional tow pin scale design and rotate the blade around and watch how the scales flex and move, then take notice of how smooth and even the tension is on the pivot. Also if you take a close look the taper in the wedge is the same amount of taper on the tang.the wedge is much thinner than the tang but the taper is the same. They all work together, and in doing so the scales stay tight for a very long time.
Properly-done wedgeless scales are still properly-done. Must get that splay before pinning and use the scales for tension. JMO.
Attachment 268668
This never made sense to me until someone drew me a picture.Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
The tang tapers from blade to tail. When pinned the scales should follow that taper. The other side should form a canoe shape and be even with enough space to allow the blade to sit properly, with tension.
I still find this challenging.
Asthetically, I want the wedge and scales to be as thin as possible. Heavier blades thicker scales for balance.
Not sure how one would achieve all that by carving out the middle. I suppose the whole assembly could be carved as a wedge to begin with and the "canoe" formed by pinning the blade.
Seems like more work and more scale material used than it's worth just to save a pin.
Cheers
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You would want to choose a wood that has springiness to it. Orient the wood so that the long grain is on the face side of the scales along the long axis. Then cut out the interior with two taper cuts (narrow at the pivot end, wider at the "wedge" end).
In theory it is simple and can be quickly done on a bandsaw. In reality I bet cutting that inside taper is going to take 20 or more goofs to get the angle and tension correct. Finding which woods the method will work on could be another 20 goofs.
I might have to raid my scrap bin and give it a try in the next few days.
Wouldn't it be great if somebody did a thread on the Problems and Solutions of making "One Piece" Scales
Oh yeah :p
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...solutions.html
Time. In production it is easier to source and manufacture slabs and pin rather then manufacture one piece scales. Also from a warranty standpoint scale repair is less costly
