Ziricote scale finish

This is the first set of scales that I am making from start to finish. I decided to use a turning blank of ziricote due to the patterns that I seen on it, thought that it would make some good looking scales. Attachment 272662Started by making the mirrored blanks.Attachment 272663 then cutting and sanding the basic shape. Now to profile them, finish sand and seal them. My question is what would a good durable finish that would also stay very clear so the natural look of the wood is preserved. I don't want the finish to darken or become cloudy. Thanks in advance for the help.

CA always works for me. It takes some time but the end finish is a thin clear coat. Well, more than just thin.

Nice grain in that. Good eye to find the grain.

Thanks gasman! I was looking at some blanks at woodcraft a little while back but all they had in blanks was for knives which were too short, then I saw the long turning blanks and the grain pattern almost jumped out at me. It started out as a 12"X1 1/2x1 1/2. I was thinking about using CA on them just wasn't sure of how durable it was over time.

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Originally Posted by Paul76

Thanks gasman! I was looking at some blanks at woodcraft a little while back but all they had in blanks was for knives which were too short, then I saw the long turning blanks and the grain pattern almost jumped out at me. It started out as a 12"X1 1/2x1 1/2. I was thinking about using CA on them just wasn't sure of how durable it was over time.

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CA has a tendency to crack, over time.
Not always, but 98% of the time.
One that stays clear is Polycrylic, by Minwax. It dries fairly fast, but doesn't give the depth to the grain, like Tru Oil.

True Oil, will bring that grain to life, and make them POP!! It will darken some, but the end results are worth it. And for durability... Ha! Its a gun stock finish.
Don't think your gonna find much of anything more durable.
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Just a suggestion mind you, Renaissance Wax over the oil finish?


Mike

Outback those do look good. I was only worried about darkening since the ziricote is already a somewhat dark wood. I wasn't wanting the grain pattern to hide. In those pics it seems that the grain colors contrast nicely, and stand out very well.

Mglindo does the renaissance wax darken over time or cloud up? How often does it have to be applied?

This is my favorite, for TruOil, and polyurethane, finishes.
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I lightly sand the finish with 0000 steel wool, then the polish, followed with the Jubilee, kitchen wax.

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Originally Posted by Paul76

Outback those do look good. I was only worried about darkening since the ziricote is already a somewhat dark wood. I wasn't wanting the grain pattern to hide. In those pics it seems that the grain colors contrast nicely, and stand out very well.

Mglindo does the renaissance wax darken over time or cloud up? How often does it have to be applied?

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It will remain clear. It can be removed with mineral spirits and the wax reapplied. Great for all types of materials. I just ordered some from Amazon as it is sometimes difficult to find locally.

https://www.theruststore.com/Renaissance-Wax-P235.aspx

Mike

I did a George Butler Shakespeare razor in Ziricote, and just sanded/buffed it up and buffed in several coats of paste wax. To be honest, I like Mike's results with Tru Oil much better! Gotta try that stuff.
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I admit that Mike's finish does work nicely and ive done this with great results. I've also done CA and havent had any cracking but my CA is not real old just yet. If your worried about darkening, do a test piece on one of the scraps.

I too like your idea about using Tru-oil outback. Then a light coat of Renaissance Wax.


Mike

I did put some ca on a cut-off to see how it looked. Just waiting for it to dry to take a look. I'll do a test piece with the tru oil also when get a chance to pick some up.

So far this is what I have gotten done. Temped them together with micro fasteners to sand both sides to match. Then started with 100 grit sand paper to get the curvature of them to feel comfortable in the hand. Then progression sanded with 180/250/400/600/800/1500/2000 w/d sandpaper.
Attachment 272688
With the 2000 they almost shine on their own. Still have to make the tang covers, but that's a little more tedious project. So that will wait till another day.

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Originally Posted by mglindo

I too like your idea about using Tru-oil outback. Then a light coat of Renaissance Wax.


Mike

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I hear its good stuff, even for blades.
But I've never tried it. Mom used jubilee on her hardwood floors, for years.
I love the smell, and reminds me of when I was a wee one, and my older brother pushing me through the house, while I sat on the floor in my jammies.
As slick as snot, on a glass door knob.[emoji1]

Zircote is a Rosewood

In general "Tighter grain and oily woods use a thinner finish"

Polys work well with this especially if you do a few Thinned wash coats to start.

Teak or Danish oils are simple to use for these types of wood too


Two recommendations

Use Acetone to wipe down the wood first before applying any finish and let dry

Know what is meant by a "Wash Coat" and use them even with CA they work well

Glen for thinning the poly you do mean using a little paint thinner just to thin it down to use less for each coat, right. I did trim carpentry for quite a while but the finishing on all my woodwork was done by someone who did only that, so I don't have much experience in finishing wood. For my own kitchen I did all pre-finished cabinets and stacked crown.

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Originally Posted by Paul76

Glen for thinning the poly you do mean using a little paint thinner just to thin it down to use less for each coat, right..

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Yes exactly

I use Mineral Spirits, the first wash coat is usually 50/50 the second is usually only 30% spirits or close

For CA I use the really thin stuff for the first 3 coats sanding lightly in between, then go for effect

Thanks Glen, just wanted to be sure on that. Before having one of those ooops moments!

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Originally Posted by Paul76

I did put some ca on a cut-off to see how it looked. Just waiting for it to dry to take a look. I'll do a test piece with the tru oil also when get a chance to pick some up.

So far this is what I have gotten done. Temped them together with micro fasteners to sand both sides to match. Then started with 100 grit sand paper to get the curvature of them to feel comfortable in the hand. Then progression sanded with 180/250/400/600/800/1500/2000 w/d sandpaper.
Attachment 272688
With the 2000 they almost shine on their own. Still have to make the tang covers, but that's a little more tedious project. So that will wait till another day.

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Did you sand your test pieces to 2000.?
It'll be more accurate that way...
And TrueOil will be a minimum of six coats, or what ever it takes to fill the grain, plus three coats more, for sanding and polishing, so it comes out shiny and smooth.

I didn't go that far, but I did go to 800 for the ca and planned on doing the same for the tru oil. I was figuring whichever looked better at that point would also look better at the 2000 sanding level.

Today I decided to work on the tang covers. And wow are they tedious and feel like one wrong look and they might break. I do know that I will be using ca on the pin holes for these tang covers, just to help prevent splitting. As for the rest of the finish I still need some comparison. The only parts of the finishing steps that I have decided on is nickel silver hardware and wedge. I think that will complete the look that I want.
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I like this great project and it's looking awesome.

Here’s some more progress pics of the scales and tang covers. I decided to use the tru oil because it made the grain jump out better, then gave it a light sanding and started on the poly wash coats. I then went to just poly. I went with the polished nickel silver bullseye washers and stainless pinstock. The stainless pins were pretty tough to peen but seemed to turn out ok after taking my time.

Attachment 275853Attachment 275854Attachment 275855Attachment 275856

Thanks for looking and also for all the help and advice!

Honed it tonight and it took a very nice edge. Popped hairs the full length of the blade. I set the bevel with a 1k norton and did the rest of the hone on my coti. Now to just strop and shave. Attachment 275925

The first shave was really good, no tugging or pulling. Very clean smooth shave. It even worked on my lower neck area better than most of my blades. Mainly from the small smile to the blade. It was well worth all the time and effort put into this blade. Thank you guys for the advice and the compliments along the way.
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I really like the tang cover. That is such a cool look. You guys never cease to impress.

That turned out great. Really nice work and I have enjoyed reading this thread. Thank you for sharing.