Using a Pencil to Clean Off Old Soap, Patina, and Rust

One of the countless pieces of great advise from this site is using a pencil to clean up a razor - graphite is harder than rust, but softer than steel.
Was cleaning a razor when I recalled that I had some 2H pencils - a little harder than usual.
Then I wondered about other hardnesses.
Not being an artist, I googled it and found out there are 17 different pencil hardnesses.
Went onto ebay and got a 4H, 6H, and 9H - to be had for about $2 each with free shipping.
The 9H did a great job and - unlike a fiberglass sanding pen - did not leave scratches.
Especially handy for getting at that troublesome rust on the tang between the scales!

Attachment 273312

Some before N after would be nice.

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Originally Posted by outback

Some before N after would be nice.

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Fair enough.
Wostenholm pipe that come in to my shop today for rescaling.
#1 - the way it came
#2 - 2 minutes with a 9H pencil
#3 - 2 minutes with mother's polish

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+1 to this. Pencils can be great, especially when trying to get at small or inconveniently located bits of rust.

That's impressive, I'll have to get some of the 9h pencils.

Nice! I've used regular pencils for this before, No. 2 HB I think they are? Worked so-so.

I'll have to get a 9H. One pencil should last a long time

Hobby lobby if you have one near.

I love using pencils as well! I have favored a mechanical pencil and the inserts I have after a regular old #2.

Now I know why!..Progressive pencil process! :D

Thanks!

Nice, will defenetly try this.

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Attachment 273645Good to know. Another thing you can do with pencils is this: get a box of Ticonderoga My First Pencil (the fat ones we all started with). Cut off a couple of inches from the eraser end and chuck it up in your drill press.

Lightly coat your patina'd blade and the eraser with your preferred metal polish. For this gorgeous Wostenholm Pipe I used some 3M Marine Metal Polish Mike/Outback sent me, and it worked like a charm. You can get pretty aggressive in pushing the flats of the blade around under the eraser, and it won't round sharp lines like buffing compounds on a wheel. But it Will conform somewhat to the blade, those hard to clean jumps, up against the stabilizer, etc. Just be careful the spinning eraser doesn't grab the edge (even though you dulled it beforehand, right!?).

This is also a good technique if, like me, you suffer from CTS, and don't want to aggravate it with a lot of hand sanding. Give it a try! AaronAttachment 273644

I am very happy to have found this site. I am new to restoring blades, and all of the tips that you guys share are extremely helpful.
Thank You to all. Now if only I can do half of the great work that you folks share.

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Originally Posted by MrZ

I am very happy to have found this site. I am new to restoring blades, and all of the tips that you guys share are extremely helpful.
Thank You to all. Now if only I can do half of the great work that you folks share.

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Patience is key, don't rush because you want to see it done. A blade can be ruined in short order. You will get it with patience and practice: )

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrZ

I am very happy to have found this site. I am new to restoring blades, and all of the tips that you guys share are extremely helpful.
Thank You to all. Now if only I can do half of the great work that you folks share.

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Welcome.
Having hands-on help is invaluable.
Check the directory for members in your area.
You can also always post questions on this site.

I have a fairly nice WM Elliot that cleaned up pretty well, but this pencil thing may be just what the doctor ordered.

Wow, I have never thought of this before. Thank you so much for sharing!

This tip was worth the price of the pencil set at Hobby Lobby. I tried it last night and it worked like a charm.