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So I've recently restored a Boker I found at a local antique shop. My wife and I exchanged 1 gift early and she got me the scales I really wanted for this razor! I've only put new scales on 1 razor before and that was like 5 years ago...These beautiful ram horn scales don't seem to have a pin hole where the blade is attached...Am I going to have to drill the hole too? Or am I missing something?
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You are going to have to drill the hole. Try and lay the razor on the scale and line up the hole and mark it where you want it. Most razors are around 3/8" from the pivot end, but depends on how close you want the toe near the wedge. Just don't want it hitting the wedge. If you don't want to remove the wedge pin you could try to place something in between the scales to level them out to be able to drill evenly through them, which is a PITA. Not sure what the liner is, but take it slow drilling through those. Those look like they might be quite heavy and might throw off the balance some. If they are really long that might throw it off more. The wedge looks like it might be a spacer also instead of a wedge and if you decide to remove the wedge pin I would make the spacer a wedge if that is the case. Just take it slow.
I agree with the above post. It is impossible to tell from pictures, but the scales may not have enough flex, which is why there is a spacer instead of a wedge. If you take a vintage razor and go from closed to full open, they will notice that the scales flex throughout the range, and it produces an even tension on the pivot all the through the range. As the scales loose flexibility you also loose the even tension on the pivot, the result is loose points in the movement. I cannot stand scales that are loose it the straight open, stropping, position.
I have no idea what you remember about pinning. If you need some advice on that feel free to let us know.
The most important thing is to drill a straight hole.
Easier said than done without a drill press.
Maybe get a pro of some sort to drill the holes for you?
They do look a bit thick. I agree with all that has been said. Stick the blade in the scales and see where the hole needs to be. Scales are not one size fits all. These may or maynot work for the blade you have in mind. Just be 100% sure before drilling.
Geezer has posted this many times, and works every time.
But a drafting compass will put your blade right where you want it.
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Thanks everyone for the direction. Outback, that is really helpful! I think I am going to find someone near me to help me finish these up. I believe this is just a spacer instead of a wedge and would like to fix that too. This will turn into my favorite razor so I want to make sure it's as near perfect as I can get.
Does anyone know any mentors around NW Indiana or even Chicagoland area that would give me some help to finish this up?
Drilling a straight hole without a drill press, I tried it a couple of times, it didn't work well, au contraire. You can manipulate the blade somewhat while pinning, but seeing how I'm not the best at drilling in a straight line, they were way off, oops!
Btw, that's a great gift from the wife!
Top of the page there is a button that is marked community. In there somehow, you can find folks that might be near by you. Then just send them a PM. Be sure to check when the last time they posted as we ha e a lot of folks come and go and never to be seen again. Its too bad. Some folks just dont hang around. Good luck with your favorite razor. At least favorite this month. Ha.
The only thing I would add is tape the pivot end of the together and drill a single hole through both scales. I would encourage you not to drill holes separately and then put them back together. Drill must be 90*/perpendicular to scales. Drill on a flat surface. You may need to add a shim like popsicle stick if you don't remove the wedge/spacer. Agree, try to use a wedge vice spacer if possible. Good luck.
ajkenne gives excellent advise. Unpinning the bottom and bolting it back without the wedge while taping the top tightly together will get a more accurate job.
Most scales have taper going down to the pivot end. Some compensation will be required if that is the case. Always a bit of 'eyeball' required to get them even.
So how much do those scales weigh?
They look big for most Bokers..
It might behoove you to send it all to a pro, FME.
