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Hi all,
I have recently been working on restoring an old Wade and Butcher and am in the process of doing my first pinning of new scales. I have been at it for what seems like a long time (3+ hours, with thousands and thousands of taps), and the razor is in, but still pretty loose. How long does it usually take to get the razor tight? The videos I have watched seem to only take a matter of minutes, not hours, I am wondering if I am doing something wrong?
Thanks for any help on the matter.
It takes much less time than 3 hrs but a bit longer than the vids for the first time at it. Common mistake is to leave the pin too long which results in not being able to tighten it up enough and/or a bent pin. Ask me how I know. It takes surprising little of the pin protruding to peen it well.
If you are using anything other than brass or nickel silver rod stock it could also make it difficult/impossible to peen it enough too.
Bob
I have a feeling I left it too long, if that is the case, will I ever be able to get it tight?Quote:
Originally Posted by BobH
Just file it a little shorter. The pretence is that you are forming a mushroom on the tip of the pin. It is the tightening of the edges of the mushroom that tighten the scales. I few strokes with a fine file will make a very big difference. I have a piece of aluminum that I use to gauge long to make my pin. I form one end in a drill chuck, slide the pin in, put the collar on drop the gauge over, trim the pin length, file it flat and peen. My piece of aluminum is not ver thick. I have no idea where it came from.
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Knife makers use a smooth flat file to knock the peened end down to a better level and the stroke of the file also anneals the pin end to make it form more easily..
And...yes, I have done the same "too Long" pin routine also untill another member steered me to the correct method.
Good on ya for trying!
~Richard
I like that idea Rez. What is that piece? about 1/32 thick?
Thats how I judge. I eyeball 1/32 of pin stilling out thru washer. And a small file will work great to knock it down some and continue to peen. Just be careful of the scales. I've even been told that a soda can cut up to get a thin piece of metal with a small hole in it to protect the scales while filing the pin head.
Jerry I have no idea how thick it is. I suppose I should measure it. Someone sent it to me and I think it may have been 10pups. It ensures all of my pins are the same length and my peens are then all the same size
Just one dumb question ???
What metal are you making the pins out of ????
I am using the brass kit ordered from Maggard's.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
I am going to try filing it some more tomorrow and see if that helps.
Stainless washers can also effect how it's pinned...I did a stacked beehive on a recent razor I made for the pivot pin. I can't get it to snug up & may have to redo them. Going to give them one more time on the pinning anvil (1' piece of railroad track) and if that doesn't work I will redo them.
Good info Scott. I hadnt run across this yet but ive not pinned as many as you ether.
Sometimes you are just as far ahead to remove the pin giving you trouble and starting over with a new one.
Bob
I peen one end and get the scales mocked up with whatever washers or collars I’m going to use. I then put on an extra #0 washer and clip the rod at that level with flush cutters. I then file or sand the pin to make it perfectly flat(import) and I’m ready to start peening. I used to eyeball it, but this is way more consistent.
One extra washer? Nice one. Hadnt thought of that. Good tip!
Okay, I've got to try this. I am having to re-pin one that I cut the pin too short, so couldn't get a good domed rivet on one side, and it kept going loose. Thanks for the tip!Quote:
Originally Posted by BeJay
I find this to work great, Jerry.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasman
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Just make sure its dull. U know why.:rock:
Nice idea Mike. Now where to find a used one. Hmmmm.
Just for the record, I found my calipers and my other gauge. One I use for collarless pinning and it is 0.050” and the one for collars, as pictured 0.034”Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasman
The 0.034 is kind of thin for collarless pinning.
This has been pretty well covered, though I'll add a couple of things.
It seems all are agreed that the original poster's has the pin to long. I size the pin with a pair of nippers like the ones shown below. Once the razor is put together, I press down on the scales, nip as close as I can, and keep my hand on the scales until I give a couple of taps to spread the pin.
As I starting pinning, I check to see whether the blade is centered in the scales when closed. If not, I hammer more strokes on the side opposite of the direction that I want the blade to go, though it usually isn't an issue unless I'm working with really thin horn.
I don't raise the hammer more than an inch for each stroke due to the softness of the brass or silver/nickle rod.
Also, before doing any permanent pinning, I use micro fasteners on each end of the scales to make sure that everything lines up and looks good.
https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/..._AS01?$mdmain$
IMHO, although I never had to take the step yet, brass would be my choice of metal to utilize as well. Being an alloy of Copper, and Zinc, it is soft enough to being shaped easily, without having to use any heat. However, still hard enough though. Yeah, got reminded of History classes, about the different ages, at school too. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by relk19
