Lessons Learned: Making Burl or Thin Horn Scales
I've learned a few things lately while making Burl and thin Horn scales and thought I would share with the workshop thread.
I had some beautiful burl, which had been stabilized, break using pressure that shouldn't have been a problem. I've also found a lot of horn that warps when the scales become thin.
The same solution works very nicely for both. I use a .030 inch G10 liner. Here are the highlights:
- Always remember the toxicity of G10 dust. A proper respirator with correct filters is a must. Don't cut or sand G10 indoors.
- G10 is available in many colors, including one that is somewhat, though not completely, transparent.
- Two part epoxy is the best adhesive.
- There are two types of two part epoxy that I know of. The quick set and the somewhat longer set. I don't recommend the quick set. Gorilla Glue's two part epoxy is the quick set.
- After research, I settled on West Marine's epoxy. G-Flex is great, though doesn't dry clear, thus it needs to be dyed. I use West #105 epoxy and #207 hardener for a clear finish, though it isn't as strong as G-Flex.
- Be very careful about bubbles, which you can see through thin horn and other materials. I dye the epoxy in a color that enhances the transparency of the scale material I'm working with.
From this list, the most important lessons are to avoid 5 Minute two part epoxy and watch the bubbles very closely if the scale material has any amount of translucency.
