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As the title says. I have ruined too many scales trying to drill out the pins. I am working with a dremel press that can wobble a bit, but that's what I have. I have worn out the couple of bits that I have in 1/16th.
Does anyone have specific bit recommendations: style, metal, cutting edge, etc.
Thanks in advance.
I use a 5/64 bit for pins and pin holes
But honestly, I drill out maybe 2/100 most pop with Polished Flush Cutters, and very Delicate scales are taken apart from the inside out with a Jeweler's Saw
Lotsa ways to do it. My technique is starting here in this thread....https://straightrazorpalace.com/work...ml#post1347714
Thanks guys.
@gssixgun I have a flush cutter, but often mar my scales. I saw your post about polishing the cutter and will give that a try.
@sharptonn I bought some titanium coated split-tip bits as well.
Ive been having good lu k with the short split tip bits. But ive used flush cutters too. Some folks with a steady hand (bruno) uses his grinder and grinds the top of the pin off.
I've been using a Dremel with a small grinding wheel for a long time and have had pretty good luck. You do have to go slow and easy.
I had the same problem when I used the dremel press, it got better when I bought a nice drill press..
But still had a little challenge with heating up the pin and melting plastic scales. Then tried applying more pressure only to have the drill bit flex and slip onto the scale.
So I got a short bit and that fixed that problem.
I like the dremel grinder wheel technique, but I also messed up some scales doing that!
:D
EDIT: Oh and also, I put a dremel grinder wheel on my drill press and held the razor up to the wheel, this allowed me two hands to steady...
EDIT: Oh and also, I put a dremel grinder wheel on my drill press and held the razor up to the wheel, this allowed me two hands to steady...[/QUOTE]
Never considered that one, I'll have to remember that and give it a try. Thanks for the tip!
Never considered that one, I'll have to remember that and give it a try. Thanks for the tip![/QUOTE]Quote:
Originally Posted by DoughBoy68
I have the Dremel drill press accessory. It allows you to position the rotary tool vertically, horizontally or any angle in between and acts as a drill press. I like it for the reason you cited about freeing both hands and bringing the razor to the tool.
First, make a bed with a piece of wood longer than the razor, drill a hole larger enough to hold the pin and collar, 1/8 to 3/16 ths. This will hold the razor in the pin hole steady while you file and drill.
File a flat on the pin with a sharp file, just a small flat in the center. Center punch a small divot a small divot. I use an old sharpened Philips screwdriver about 3in long. You can protect the scale with a piece of electrical tape over the pin, the file will cut through the tape and the top of the pin.
With a small, no. 1 or 2 Center Drill Countersink drill bit, (you can buy a set for $10-15, or individually an any hardware store for a few bucks) chuck the center drill in the drill press and lightly tap the center punched divot, If you drilled you hole in the wood properly the razor will lay solidly on the block, the tip of the center punch will not wander in the divot and the bottom pin will rest on the wood at the bottom of the hole. With light taps the center drill will cut a v hole centered on the pin in thin controlled shavings. Take the hole down to almost the outer edges of the pin but not completely removing the pin head. Leave a little of the pin head to make alignment of the drill bit easier.
Hold the razor near the pin to be drilled, if the pin spins or your drill is not sharp you can heat up the scale and melt or deform the pin hole. You will feel if it is heating up with your fingers, stop and get a new bit or make a shallower hole/divot in the wood block so the downward pressure will stop the pin from spinning.
Now replace the starter drill with a 5/64 or 1/6 in drill bit. Chuck the bit deep in the drill chuck. Align the drill bit with the hole, the V shaped hole should self-align easily held by hand, no clamps. Now tap the pin with the drill bit to deepen the hole, slow light taps. Once you are past the collar it should come off and you should not touch the scale. Make sure your drill bits are sharp, by good ones, they are cheap.
Do not drive the pin through the scale, lift the scale off the pin. If you drive the pin and it is bent, (common) you will break the scale on the back side. You may have to dress the cut pin head with a file, to remove any burr to easily remove the pin from the back scale.
@euclid440 thanks for the detailed write-up.
With drill bits that small get the best ones you can find! I have a very small center punch to help start the drill where I want it. I am a firm believer in Ballistol for many things. One thing I use it for a lot is as a cutting fluid. It works great on small holes in steel. Check it out at ballistol.com . It also works great on all your leather products including vintage shell strops.
Can you figure out a way to take the slop out of your drill press? That will help with all your drilling.
Slawman:beer1:
I use a Dremel with a sand paper wheel. I finally discovered the trick with this method. Once you are close to having it come lose, use no pressure at all. If there is any pressure on the Dremel when it comes loose, it will skid the sand paper barrel onto the scales every time.