To line or not, that is the question (scales & liners)

Hey folks,
I've got tons of questions on scale liners can you help out?

First, what I think I know.
1) The liner seems to be predominantly to increase strength of the scales. When working with thin scale material, or something that might bow/bend/warp, having a metal backing will help keep it straight and from cracking.

2) The liner also seems to be for aesthetics, or for higher end razors, as it adds a two-tone color, and involves more worth & materials.

3) The liner can provide a foundation for using multiple pieces of scale material for each side of the razor.

Now, for the questions:
i) If you're creating a liner for stability, how do you know if your scales are prone to warp/bend? If they are really thin, or based on the material? Like does horn warp more likely than wood, or certain types of wood warp more often?
ii) How thick should the metal liner material be? I don't want anything too hard to cut/work with.
iii) If you're creating a liner for aesthetics, I guess you could add one to anything. So why do you cover it with a layer of plastic so you don't see it on the inside of the scales? Is this just to protect the metal from rusting?
iii) Where can you get the plastic to line the metal liner? Are there other options to cover the liner with besides plastic?

Your assumptions are all correct for a liner.

I'll answer your questions based on my perspective (because I have the day off and the time to answer :D)...

i) If you're creating a liner for stability, how do you know if your scales are prone to warp/bend? If they are really thin, or based on the material? Like does horn warp more likely than wood, or certain types of wood warp more often?

This all depends on the material that you are adding the liner too. If it's wood, there is a chance it might split. Some woods are more prone than others. Which ones will or won't? I thought I knew...What I found is that your 'softer' woods to have a propensity to split...however, I've made scales out of ironwood and they split while I was cutting them too. The grain in the wood is where the split would happen. Some Horn does warp with time...most likely horn that's been flattened or shaped. From what I understand, it has a similar composition that hair is made of, in that it has somewhat of a 'memory'. It will want to go back to it's form eventually, and may bend. Also, excess heating on one side will cause the horn to bend that way (similar to rubbing one side of Ivy stalks :thinking:). So, I'm not sure if I answered this question, or just 'talked' until you feel I either did, or just wish me to shut up :)



ii) How thick should the metal liner material be? I don't want anything too hard to cut/work with.

This is basically your call. I use very thin brass liner material (0.005). The reason being, I don't want the liner to add too much weight, but in the same breath, if the wood or material being used for scales is very light, the liner might add the needed weight to balance the blade (you'd use a thicker liner material then). I want the liner to look only like a paper thin line along the edge for function (support) and aesthetics. AND also, because it's a breeze to cut! I use a pair of scissor like metal cutters, and it's no problem.



iii) If you're creating a liner for aesthetics, I guess you could add one to anything. So why do you cover it with a layer of plastic so you don't see it on the inside of the scales? Is this just to protect the metal from rusting?

I cover the liner so that it's only a thin highlight along the edge of the scales. You'd be able to see it on the inside...more so, when the blade is open. Since it's either brass or nickel-silver liner, I don't worry about rust. However with that said, I also like to cover the liner, so I don't have metal (blade) sitting on metal (liner). This might cause discoloration with time (similar reaction as the rusting, but not ferrous).




iii) Where can you get the plastic to line the metal liner? Are there other options to cover the liner with besides plastic?

You could use almost anything you want to cover the liner (with in reason). I have used plastic liner material from:
"HIGH TECH PLASTIC SPACER"
http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pa...frameStore.htm

And also most recently I started using:
"Spacer"
http://www.knifeandgun.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=44

I like this latter material, in that it's VERY easy to cut (similar to cutting construction paper), but also very sturdy as well.

I hope this helped!!

C utz

Thanks Chris,

follow up questions:

1) if the liner is that thin, does it actually do anything to prevent warping/twisting of the scales? I suppose it provides some foundation to prevent expansion/contraction which might help stop cracking, but not much else. Maybe something thicker is needed for bone/horn? Maybe nothing can help warping/twisting.

2) How do you judge how much the scales should weigh in relation to the blade to figure out what a good balance should be? Seems like you could make thick scales, or thin scales with a liner, but how do you know what the right weight should be?:shrug:

- side note; everyone complains about the weight of the scales on the wapienica, but it has never bothered me. Am I just too strong? :rolleyes:

Maybe people just want the scales to be as light as possible, so that they really feel like they are only holding the blade?

Well, yes.

The thin liner prevents cracking, which is the biggest problem I come across. As for warping of horn, I would recommend something heavier (I've had horn warp with the thin liners...and the liners warp nicely :D).

As for the weight, you could always weigh out the materials (I don't), but if I feel the scales are going to be on the light side, I compensate with a metal end-spacer (i.e. Brass, nickel-silver, etc...).

The razor should ideally be balanced at the pivot pin. IF you have the courage, open the blade and balance the razor on your finger at the pivot pin (don't drop the razor!). I find many razors are balanced on the tang somewhere, which is fine for me. When the scales are too light (some Filarmonica BIG blades are like this) it feels awkward shaving with the blade-only. The other extreme (heavy scales) throws off the balance of the shave....I find that the Dovo Mircata razor is like this...

C utz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by C utz

The other extreme (heavy scales) throws off the balance of the shave....I find that the Dovo Mircata razor is like this...

C utz

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And Wapis, which is why I'm replacing the scales on all of mine.