Pinning/ tightening scales?

Started my scales journey.

For the first time I un pinned, and repinned razor to pre made scales.

Jewelry maker friend helped me.

Switched supplied “nail” to similar brass nail.
After about 10 minutes of lightly tapping with small ball end hammer, both sides blade is still loose, and will not hold open at any degree of opening.
I did installed washer between blade and scales.
Got home and continued with some spoon tapping.

Keep tapping? Tap harder?
At what point is there diminishing return?

Can I continue tapping vintage SR’s to tighten?

Anyone use a pin punch?
Is there concave punch tool?

Start here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmwvf8xLKmk

Also the Pin


This makes me wonder

"Switched supplied “nail” to similar brass nail."

You have to be careful with Brass Nails aka "Escutcheon pins" https://www.rockler.com/solid-brass-...IaAvy1EALw_wcB

they are not actually made for "Pinning" we use 1/16 Brass Rod and 1/16 NiAg Rod for pinning SR's

You are actually forming a small rivet

Pin Puches etc:

These have a purpose but they are REALLY dangerous to scales, especially to a beginner, you are concentrating force by using them rather than spreading the force to create a mushrooming head

I have a small upholstery hammer that I drilled two different size recesses on. That is my anvil. I use brass rods from hobby lobby and washers from micro fasteners.
I insert pin and install outside washers. Place one end on anvil in appropriate size recesses. Peen one side then turn over and peen other side. Repeat rotateing sides until blade tight and centered. The recess leaves a nice rounded pin head.

Sounds to me you are not using the right material for a pin or you have left it too long to start with. Remember you are just trying to mushroom the head, not smash the pin smaller so it doesnt take much of the pin to stick thru the outside washer to be enough.

The inside washers wont make a difference in pinning. Just in the operation of the blade. So let us know exactly what you are using for pin stock.
BTW, Glens vids are great for learning to pin. Watch those and you will have a great starting point.

PM sent---

Pin length is critical too, as mentioned

I just happened to have this one come in for repair because it had popped the Pivot Lock Washer.

The pin was too long, and created a spring effect inside there which caused stress every time the razor was opened and closed as you can see this is a new production "Nail Style"


Attachment 300867


ain't SR's fun hehehehe

Yup, sounds like the “pin” is too long.

Your brass nail/escutcheon pin may be too hard, and (too long) and if you hit it too much and or too hard you will bend it in the middle, like in Glenn’s photo.

The problem with a nail set is the pressure is in the middle of the pin, and the potential for bending is great. A nail set can work with knives where the steel or metal backer and scale are drilled to the pin diameter, with razors the razor pivot hole is often larger.

You may be able to soften the escutcheon pins by annealing. I have never used escutcheon pins so do not know their hardness. Are they the same thickness as the pins you removed?

Post some pics.

You can practice on popsicle sticks or something similar. Drill yourself a 5/64” hole, assuming 1/16” pin material. There’s a sweet spot for length on the pin, once you find it you’ll just know, should only take a few tries. And always tap around the edge of the pin.

Glens video pretty much covers everything you need to know, the rest is just experience.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jfk742

Glens video pretty much covers everything you need to know, the rest is just experience.

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That's a great video and pretty much all you need to know. Very cool Glen!

The only thing I do that is different, is start peening the pin in a small drill chuck. I also use a shield made out of a section of a beer can that has various sizes of pre-drilled holes when filing the pin to protect the scales. ( Not like I've ever had the file slip off of the pin:rofl2:)

Pete <:-}

Interesting to see how peoples techniques differ.

I think those centre spacers are defiantly their to stop the sides of the tang from hitting the scales and removing gold.

Typically I think spacers are used with blades that have no taper on their lower tang. Otherwise the tang hits the scales.