Printable View
I want to learn to start restoring and honing.
I have a variety of hand tools, the only power tools are a drill and a dremel.
I have temporary access to a CNC, mill, lathe, and 3d printer so if I need to custom make a tool now is the time.
I have a full set of hones so I'm set there.
First question what tools do I need to get or make?
Second question are there any good video's of the process out there?
Thanks in advance.
Hi,
A good place to start iss our Library of answers!
Shave_Library
Have fun!
~Richard
That library is one of the things I was looking for I remeber it from way back. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer
Does anyone know the rough dimensions of his sanding stick?
I would make something that fits your hand well and has something that seems right to you for getting in the hollows, and also make a couple extra blanks so as you get into it you can shape some more for whatever you run into. Hand sanding is pretty tiring work if what you use takes a lot of effort to hold onto.
Its a long read, but if you look thru the workshop thread "What are you working on". And " Butchered Blade". There's tons of how does with what.
You'll see, most are just clean-ups, more than total restorations. And that's about what 90% are worth doing.
Though there are some worth making look new, again
As for sanding, I like using erasers for pencil lead.
They have a bit of flex for contouring the blade face, others like to use corks n such.
I'm a big fan of the dremmel, but limit its use to certain tasks. They are very dangerous for an untrained hand, or those that throw caution to the wind.
If you look into the library, these a section on hand sanding, with pictures. Also there is a section on making a magnetic blade holder, which is a must have for restoring.
Needed tools vary from each person, but averages call for steel wool, ( 000&0000). WD-40, wet/dry sandpaper from 320-2500 grit, metal polishes like Never Dull, Maas, Flitz, and my favorite, 3M. Metal restorer/polish.
The most used tool, would be the one between your ears.
When in doubt, ask on the forum, we'll help ya out.
Its a lot of work to restore some, but the rewards can be great, in return for your patience and time.
Learn on cheap, low end razors to build up your abilities, and knowledge, before going full boar on good razors.
Wedges typically give you better returns for your efforts, only because they offer more metal that can be removed.
Being able to look at a blade, and judge its worth for restoring, before buying, is paramount. If its junk, its always gonna be junk, no matter how pretty it looks.
Its just lipstick on a pig.
But in part.. Always start with the least evasive method, first, before progressing to the next.
( polish before steel wool, steel wool before sandpaper. Ect.)
All can be done without power tools, if you can give um time and patience. Like this one I finished recently
Attachment 301663
Attachment 301664
Look forward to seeing you in the workshop, there's a good group of guys there that can help.
Its where I got most of my knowledge, and help.:tu
I was going to post pics of the ones I got to learn on but I cant get them uploaded
Yup. As said the workshop forum has many good threads with lots of great information and tips buried in them. Unfortunately, you have to read through them to find the nuggets of tools and how to. The Show the World how you Modified your tools, is a great thread.
Start with a couple pieces of ¼ in craft foam (Walmart or Craft store) use one as a work surface, cover with a paper towel to soak up oil and crud, replace the towel as needed. A single edge razor blade, can of WD40, steel wool (000 and 0000), a wooden coffee stir stick and paper towel will clean most razors enough to work on.
Any good metal polish will work, I like 3M Marine and Maas, they are both pricy but worth every penny, you don’t need much. I also like blue paper shop towels for polishing and naturals unbleached paper towels for buffing, cheap at Smart and Final.
Cut one piece of foam up into 3X3 inch pieces and work on them, one pieces supporting the blade an the other the tail, scales between the two squares. This will grip and hold the razor securely for most operations. You can also wrap various objects with the foam for sanding, Wine corks, natural and synthetic, pieces of PVC pipe and nipples, erasers and metal ratchet sockets for a selection of different diameters to match curves and wood dowels.
Buy a selection of good sand papers from 220 to 2,000 grit. Buy good paper, it is not expensive, and you don’t need that much. Good Automotive Body work sand paper from Auto paint supply, or from a Knife supplier is a good place to start. I like Texas Knife. Buy a small assortment until you find the brands you like and grits you will use most. I like to start with 600 and go from there. 600 will not leave deep scratches, (don’t make more work for yourself, use only as aggressive a grit as needed) and can easily be buffed with 1k. You can polish easily from 1 or 2k, by hand or machine.
I have all the grits but use 600, 800 1k, 2k and 400 most in that order. My local Ace hardware has all decent 3m paper in all grits in a pinch. You can buy on line cheaper once you find what you like. There are lots of good paper out there, I cut my paper in 3X3 in squares to prevent waste and ease of use.
Learn to hand sand before you go to machines. There is a lot more to hand sanding than you think. For what it is worth, all the good knife makers hand sand to preserve detail and for the best finish. You can spot a heavy-handed buff job, a mile away.
Which by the way, Knife making sites and video are a great source of ideas and techniques for tools, and sources or materials and techniques. Much of knife finishing is very similar to razor restoration. Check out Nick Wheeler, he has a great series on Knife finishing where he recommends materials and tools.
A Diamond file is invaluable and inexpensive, EZ lap has a selection. Get in the habit of removing the edge, before you do any work on a razor, it can save you a nasty cut. Just a swipe with a diamond file will remove an edge. Polish the ball of a 2 and a 4 oz hammer for pinning. Knife supplies sites have pinning materials and other tools you may need.
You don’t need much or have to spend a lot of money, when you are ready, a Harbor Freight 6-inch buffer, a great tool for the money. Buy good wheels and compounds, Castwells is a great vendor, their website is kind of funky, but you’ll figure it out. They also have a great polishing tutorial. Don’t skimp on wheels, or compounds, they can make or break a finish. There are lots of good threads on buffing in the Workshop forum.
For making scales, Karlej has a great tutorial on Horn scales, (How to make traditional Horn Scales), all of what he says applies to wood and synthetic materials.
So, go slow, don’t buy a bunch of machinery or gadgets, learn to hand sand. When you learn to buff on a buffer, know it is dangerous and learn on a beater, you can ruin a razor quick on a buffer or it can rip it out of your hand and throw it across the room.
Be safe and have fun, post your work.
Definitely post your pics. If you have issues uploading pics. What device are you using? I use a phone, it's different depending on the make of the phone.Quote:
Originally Posted by formernuke
Outback described it all very well! Follow that advice and you're good!
I have avoided/procrastinated on projects because I didn't think that I had the tools, only to realize that it can usually be done with simple tools and household objects, or I don't even end up using those expensive tools as much as some random object like an eraser or piece of wood, or a plastic hair curler.
When I begin a project, I like to take pics (beginning through end), make some sketches and write a game plan list.
Not on all, as some are just cleanups, but it helps me keep the process clear. There are a number of subtleties involved with straight razor restore and custom work, it's one of the great aspects of this hobby, so a project notebook is really handy... especially if you have terrible memory as I do.
You have some awesome tools available to use! I wouldn't know where to begin if I found myself in a shop with a cnc and 3D printer.
Good luck and have fun! We love to see peoples work and especially the process as it adds to the experience.
I'm using a galaxy note 8, when I click upload to the bank nothing happensQuote:
Originally Posted by MikeT
I've been playing with the photo for hours while surfing, got it.
Two of the wade and butchers arnt bad the third and the no name are pretty bad and need lots of TLC.
When you hit reply a window shows up. Look at the tool bar and click on the tree in a picture fram, it should as if you want to upload from your computer or a url. I’m using an iphone, maybe yours won’t allow you to.
I’m a big fan of dental picks, the metal ones with the hardened steel pick. They’re are different shapes and sizes, I use them for rust and gunk removal in jimps mostly, also for picking up washers off the table.
A must have, in my opion, would be something for pinning, a section of small gauge train track, small vice, chunk of steel. Something hardened is best and weighing at least a couple pounds. I used a cheapo steel vice that has a couple different axis so you can articulate which is nice for little stuff that’s hard to hold. It has an anvil on it, which isn’t hardened so I’m constantly polishing it. If you peen on it whatever the surface finish is it will end up on you pins.
I bought some cheap ballpeen but the face wasn’t hard enough to hold a finish, I ended up getting a more expensive one from local jeweler supply and have been much happier.
