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I'm finishing up a Germania Cutlery works (1896 to 1938 when they were taken over by the Nazis). I'm ready to pin it up with the original scales. This razor did not have the inner washers at the pivot. Should I add them or re-pin it without? If I add them would it affect the alignment with the wedge?
Good question. Not sure it would effect operation. They help the scales from rubbing the tang. I put them in if they had them and don’t if they didn’t.
If I am taking the time to restore a razor, I put in brass thrust washers. You can make them as thin as you want. It makes for smoother operation and you do not need to pin as tight to get smooth operation and even pressure at the pin.
No, it will not affect alignment. If you make your pin holes a bit larger than the pin at the pivot and wedge, and mock up with bolts, you can adjust for any miss alignment.
You may have to adjust the fit and finish at the wedge, but no big deal, if you have gone this far. Do not adjust final fit until you actually pin the both wedge and pivot and adjust.
I always put them in. Even if it didnt habe any. Easier on the scales and operates smoother. Also there s normally a smoother so de to the washer. I always put tue smooth side to the tang. Gives it that little extra smooth pivoting. Rough sides of washers go to the scales if they are n the insde or outside.
Little questiins like this are good nfo and not something people think about.
I usually put washers in, even if the original did not have washers. I never have noticed it affecting the wedge alignment/angle.
I should have included that I am also using the original wedge and didn't un-pin the wedge. Sounds like the consensus is to add the washers. I'll flatten a couple thin, polish, and give it a go. Thanks to all of you for your opinion. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Plastic scales?
Personally I would not use washers.
It makes for a more consistent tight action.
why add a variable with washers.
Just my preference :)
I would never contradict German engineering :borg:
I like to put them in. I make my own from .003 brass sheets, their hardly noticeable, but adds protection to the tang from scratching
I always add them when putting the blade together, even if it didn't have them originally. I like keeping these washers very thin. I take a regular 00 washer and pound them flat, then drill out the hole a little larger. As long as you use them on both sides the alignment should not be affected.
Yes use washers :P
Always on washers!
Uh, yeah...so this just happened: Was pinning things up and went to cut the wire to length with my flush cutters and start to peen when my cutter decided it no longer wanted to remain in one piece. One side of the cutter blew off (no idea where it went) and shattered the end of the scale. I found all the pieces of the scale so I'll be able to super glue them back together, but kind of frustrating. Glad I was wearing my safety glasses, could have been more than frustrating. So I guess this project will take a little more time. I'll post pics of the cutter and scale tomorrow, I need to let this one sit a bit.
Depending on how they broke, you may need more than adhesive. If the flex of the scales puts pressure on the break it may not hold.Quote:
Originally Posted by JellyJar
I know Outback made a channel for toothpicks on the inside of broken celuloid scales for additional support.
Bummer. Things go wrong and we adapt. Show us what you got and we (outback) can let you know how to go about fixing. Sometimes its easier to to throw away the pieces and rebuild with epoxy. Or to make a new set. You will get it worked out in the end.
Sorry to hear this! You were so close....
The scales shattered when you were cutting the pin to size and the flush cutters exploded? Are you using brass or nickel silver rods? Be careful they are not stainless steel, that is too hard for pins.Quote:
Originally Posted by JellyJar
I was cutting some Canthol wire for my vape coils and had the side cutter snap a tip off. So i know it can happen. Odd yes, but a better quality of cutters might be in order.
..Attachment 303163Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasman
Attachment 303164..
A couple of fingers of my favorite beverage, a good nights sleep, and I'm good to go on with this project. I was cutting 1/16" brass rod. I was looking at the break in the cutter and I suspect there was a heat treat problem as the grain structure is really coarse. The pic of the scale and cutter is below. My plan was to CA the pieces back together as I've had success with this in the past. I broke the tip of my Genco scale off through the pivot hole when I was driving the pin out and I'ts been holding up well (the Genco is in the razor clubs if you want to see it). If there are techniques you think will work better I'm all good with learning new stuff. Though I did just get in some tortoise shell Kirinite...
Attachment 303165
Those are some serious cutters! Gotta love Starrett they make some good stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by cudarunner
I too have the Made By The C. H. Ina. Company flush cutters but I have ground the back side flat and have made the cutter much thinner. I find that if this isn't done then they put extra pressure on the scales when cutting the pin and thus comes breakage.Quote:
Originally Posted by JellyJar
I hope this is of some help.
Scales are shot, don't see a reliable repair.
BTW. Those look more like gate cutters for cutting lead not brass n Nickle
What cutters???????Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
The cutters were Cresent brand, I'd filed and polished the flush edge as they were a bit less than flush. I was cutting the wire well above the scale, I'm pretty sure the blade struck them with a fair amount of force when it snapped. Needless to say, I'll be using my regular size cutters to trim my pins to length. I've been using a drill press to remove the pins anyway, so not really a big loss.Quote:
Originally Posted by cudarunner
Well if they're done they're done. I think I'll give it a shot anyway. I'd like to get one shave out of it if I can. The blade is a double hollow, which I haven't tried before. So, if I can keep them together to try the different grind I'll make new ones later. Thanks for the look/advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
Attachment 303171.......Quote:
Originally Posted by cudarunner
:gaah:Quote:
Originally Posted by cudarunner
Please don't force me to use the Ignore list, Roy, OK?
Don't be that guy...
:roflmao
Good Enough For Glen---Good Enough For Me!:tuQuote:
Originally Posted by Speedster
I use the Starret when I'm clipping pins to final length before filing. The C. H. Ina that I ground down as per Glen's instructions are what I use when I want to just clip the pins and don't care much about the washers/collars.
Just to let you know how things turned out. Got the scale fixed, flatted some washers, got her pinned up. I'm definitely in the add washers camp. It opens/closes much smoother than it did without the washers. The scale turned out pretty well. It may break in the future, but that's fine since I mostly want to try this double hollow grind. Right now one pin is brass with the original nickel. I'll correct it later. I mostly started this one while I was waiting for pieces/parts for another razor I'm working on. I got much more interested when I saw the grind. I just need to get this honed up and give it a try :D Since my parts came in, I'll be shifting back to the other project for awhile. Pic of the repaired scale below. You can see a small hairline with magnification, but otherwise it's pretty invisible.
Attachment 303564
