What is the best product to polish unpined scales? And a side question, related i guess, what about rehidrating bone scales.....Neetsfoot oil?
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What is the best product to polish unpined scales? And a side question, related i guess, what about rehidrating bone scales.....Neetsfoot oil?
Depends on the scales and condition, but generally I sand with 600 or 1k wet and dry, I sand dry up to 1 or 2k then buff with a good metal polish, Mass, Mothers or 3M Marine. Finish polish with Novus plastic polish.
Novus sells a 3 bottle progression set for under $15, great for polishing safety glasses lenses too. I use paper towels and buff with micro fiber.
Lee Valley sells small micromesh pads that are a nice size for working on scales. They go up to insanely high grit and leave a great surface:
Micro-Mesh® Pen-Sanding Pads - Lee Valley Tools
I haven't tried it myself, but understand that neatsfoot will hydrate bone. Works brilliantly on horn of course, so fingers crossed... :)
Stollen from Rezdog, But rehydration of Bone and Ivory is best with Light Mineral Oil.
Horn and all others I use Neatsfoot oil. Although I found recently that neatfoot will put a little color back into bone after bleaching but it takes a long time.
Thanks guys for the tips.....anyone ever experiment with a 3" jewelers bench buffer?
As you can see, everybody does this a little differently. I'm certain a 3-inch buffer would work a treat depending on the wheel and what it's loaded with. I keep a loose 6-inch muslin wheel turning one of my standard buffers, loaded up with Fabuluster. I haven't found any material that combo won't put a near-mirror polish on after a good sanding progression, including every kind of synthetic and natural scales I've tried on it. Some guys like a more satiny shine on most scales-YMMV.
I have 3 buffers and use 4 & 6-inch wheels sewn and un-sewn with a variety of compounds. 4-inch wheels run slower cooler and get into hollows better.
Buffing is a whole different level, with tons of compounds and a whole learning curve for performance and safety.
Go in with your eyes wide open, buffers are dangerous. Buffing straight razors are screaming dangerous. First learn to work safely, then performance, it is easy to screw up a razor with a buffer. When ever I work on a razor, I remove the edge with a 600 diamond file, for safety.
There is lots written here on buffing razors and many other good sites on buffing in general, Castwell’s has a good primer and excellent supplies. Quality wheel and compounds, do make a difference and are not that much more.
I have found I always get a better finish if I hand sand first with at least 1k, but usually 600 and up to 1 or 2k, then buff.
Another source of high-grit polishing pads is your local auto parts store. They often sell such pads for auto finishing applications. AutoZone sells Finish First sanding pads in P3000 and P5000 grits.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cangooner