Best Band-Saw Blades and Drill Bits

I'm sorry to keep peppering you guys with questions, but I'm really gearing up to do a lot of blades in my shop this summer. One thing I've noticed is that I've chipped out a few pin holes recently on acrylic (though supporting the bottom better helps with that), and I also chipped the edges of one of my bone scales in process on the band-saw (though nothing that further thinning and shaping didn't take out, thankfully).

Anyway, I'm trying to tweak and improve my tools and processes for optimum results, and I know I need replacement bits and blades. That said, I've got a pretty standard drill-press, and a Delta bench-top band-saw with a 561/8" blade. I'm thinking I can do better than Home Depot/Lowe's by ordering from specialty companies. If you were going to order some replacements for both that will give the best results, please answer the following:

1. A handful of the most important drill-bit sizes for razor work, pin-holes, etc. Bits/bit types that work the best for you? I drill a little bit of everything scale-wise: horn, bone, brass and aluminum wedge stock, all woods, synthetics, etc.

2. Best band-saw blades/brands and compositions? I'm thinking of getting 3: 1 half-inch for rough-cutting straight blanks, 1 quarter inch for general fine work (and maybe 1 extra with more TPI?), and 1 eighth-inch with max TPI for real fine work, tight curves, etc.

Best online source(s) would also be very helpful!

I'm really tired of chipped edges and ragged cuts that create more work for me on the next step. Any help is appreciated, and I promise to pay it forward down the line. Thanks-Aaron

I don't remember the names of the bits i bought, but Bob (the retired machinest) pointed me to them. Short and very stable. He should pop in and answer you. As for size, 1/16 and 5/64 is the main one I use. I also use a centering bit to help with drilling out pins. Bought those at H.F., but the good bits did not come from H.F. bought mine online for a couple bucks a bit.

Back up your work with wood when drilling. Cuts down on splintering on the way thru.

Wait! Maybe it was Geeser, not Bob.

I've used a few different bandsaw blades and Olsen's blades were best so far. However, I generally use them for cutting bowl blanks for the lathe. I used Highland Woodworking wood slicer blades, and they weren't any better for bowl blanks, but might be better for thin cuts, such as cutting scales. As Gasman mentioned, a backing piece of wood is critical when cutting thin pieces.

Thanks, guys-I always drill into a wood backer, but probably need to find a way to support my cuts better. I also think I read somewhere that a specialty bit for acrylics is very helpful in getting a cleaner hole.

For drilling in plastics you want to use a brad point bit (aka spur point, aka dowel bit). Use a slow speed on the drill because high speed will melt the plastic and deform the hole. Definitely use a backer. If you find that out that you need lube, then a 50/50 mix of dishwashing soap and water works well with plastics.
For the small bits used to drill for a pin it doesn't really matter if the bit is a DeWalt or a Wood River, you will bend or snap the bit before you dull it. So buy multiple bits in the small sizes.

For your bandsaw issues, along with new blades, make sure all your bearings are good and that you have a fine clearance in your throat plate.

Small bits, use center relived, web thinned style, split point. Buy the shortest, screw machine length. Do not put into the chuck deeper than smooth diameter,
The bit will break easy if you close on the flutes. Buy from an actual industrial supply house!!! Fastenal or similar.

I have had poor luck with narrow bandsaw blades. Too flexible. For me. 3/8th's minimum. More cleanup, but the blade tracks straight. Take a piece of thin plywood, about the size of the table and cut to its center. Stop the saw and position it to have the blade run smoothly. Clamp it in place and most of the tearing problems go away.
Blade teeth should be 2or3 to the material thickness.

Enough for cell phone typing!!!

Proper drill bit geometry for what is being drilled is important.

This might explain it quicker and better than I can type it.

https://engineerharry.wordpress.com/...ills-drilling/

Thanks for posting this thread!
Good answers followed good questions.
It's always good to brush up on info, and I always learn new stuff.
:beer1:

Thanks all-I have gotten some of what you guys suggested (better bandsaw blades and drill bits) and made some tweaks to my tools, and am getting noticeably cleaner cuts and holes. Richard, I found a nice flat wooden checkerboard that is pretty much the exact dimensions of my saw table. It's solid as a rock with the clamps, and makes all the difference with the cuts; I just have to take it off to use a fence if necessary. Thanks again for all the tips, guys. I'm just kind of learning little pro-tips as I go!
Attachment 307351

Just reporting back with follow-up: 1. Cris-Checking my set-up, getting better bits, lubing and tightening as necessary has improved performance noticeably. 2. Lights-I got a few Olson blades, including the one I just installed and did some test cuts with: 1/4" thick, hook teeth at 14 TPI, plus I've got another, more heavy-duty blade for more serious, precise ripping.

All of these tips along with Geezer/Richard's wooden base-plate I already clamped on have my cuts and holes gliding like butter now, and all very clean and chip-free. I look forward to improved razors and less cussing. Thanks again, guys! A-aron