Thread: Observations and request for pointers on hand sanding

Restoration begins at purchase. Buy razors in the best condition you can afford. As Christian said do you want to put 5 hours into a $50 razor?

Buy good sandpaper, cut into 3-inch squares, (old paper cutter) mark the grit on the back, and change the paper once it stops cutting. For lower grits you can extend the life a bit, by blowing the load up off with compressed air.

Wrap the cork with 6mm craft foam, cut into 3inch pieces it is much easier on your fingers. With a 3 inch piece of sandpaper you can sand with one side up against the edge of the cork and roll the paper so you are always on fresh cutting abrasive, then flip the paper 180 degrees and repeat with fresh grit, rolling the cork and paper to use only fresh grit. Now flip the paper 90 degrees and repeat, then flip the paper 180, so you are always on fresh grit and you can use every inch of paper effectively.

Once it stops cutting, replace the paper.

Jimps are cleaned with a 3m Radial Bristle Disc, 60 grit the maroon ones work best. They will also get into corners, like stabilizers and between scales, if you do not un-pin. You can use wire wheels, but they throw wires.

Motored tools can speed up work or destroy it. There is a learning curve, and you can often tell when motors were used by loss of detail.

Cross grit sanding removes material faster and you get a more even finish.

WD40, Simple Green & Windex all work as a lubricant and resist flash rust like plain water will.


Here is an excellent Video by Nick Wheeler on hand sanding knives. He talks about flat, and his jigs and sanding sticks are made for flat sanding, which for a knife is important, not for a razor that very little is flat, but every thing else is spot on. Nick’s knives and finishes are spectacular, this is how he does it. He also has other videos on hand sanding. (Nick Wheeler Hand sanding Knives 101).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4x4QLpfnk