Scales

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Originally Posted by outback

Yep, it'll work with all materials.

For thinning scales, it all depends on what style I'm making. If their the flat sided with beveled edges, I'll use my sanding block, and stick. ( piece of 2x10 board, with a sheet of 60 grt. sandpaper held in place with thumbtacks, and a paint stick, or equivalent)

I use it for cleaning up the saw marks, from cutting blanks, and thinning scales.

I use double sided tape to hold the blank or scale, to the sanding stick.

Attachment 342271

Just peel the scales off on occasion, and check your thickness with a set of calipers.

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Just so I am clear Mike, it looks like you are thining those scale blanks attached to your stick before you cut them out.

Am I right or have I misunderstood, maybe it would be easier before cutting them out because if i bugger them up while thinning I won't have done too much work first.

When you make your collars with a dapping set, what do you use as the collar and where do you get them, what size washer etc or are they just the washers that usually go inside the scales?

And, do you have to put anything under the dapped collars to stop from flattening or otherwise damaging them when peening?

I'm not likely to actually use a dapping block yet but I love tools and need them on my shelf:cool:

I initially sand the blanks, to remove the saw marks, and burnt wood. Here's what the block of wood looks like after cutting the blanks. Can't tell what it looks like.!!

Attachment 342284

Sanding away the gunk, reveals the grain in the wood.

Attachment 342285

I then glue the blanks together, trace my design, then cut them out, smooth out with sanding drum. That's first.!

If I'm making flat scales, I'll separate them, and thin them individually.
"Always mark the inside of each scale, that way you won't get confused, and sand the inside of one of your scales. Dead flat!! That's what you want for proper fit of the wedge and blade.

If I'm doing rounded scales, I leave the scales glued together, and sand everything with my sanding stick wrapped in 60 grt. for initial shaping. Then move up in grt. for a smooth finish. Then a final sand with steel wool, and a wipe with a tack cloth.

Attachment 342286


As for washers for doming, I get mine at the local hardware store. They have a selection of micro screws, nuts, waders, ect. Don't remember the sizes. The collars the go under collars, is too small to dome, and notice.

No you won't need the flat washer under the collar, for bone, and plastic, but its a good idea with wood. It'll keep the edges of the collar from cutting/sinking into the scales.

I've been busy this morning, a bit of weeding in the garden and then into the workshop.

This is my first attempt at a scale template, courtesy of the 11 pages of scale outlines that joamo gave us a PDF of, thanks joamo.

It's far from perfect and will need doing again until I get it just right, one of the pin holes is not center either but the good thing about that PDF, I can keep printing as many as I need until I have the hang of it.

Attachment 342328

I had my second attempt at makng a scale template this morning. I want to get good at making these templates from paint sticks before mess up expensive blanks.

Attachment 342637

I was going to buy some tru-oil for when i make wood scales but I was looking in my workshop and found that I've got marine and yacht varnish. I'm hoping that will work because it's nice and shiny, and waterproof. I can always tone down the shine if it's too much with some 2000 wet n dry or something.

The sanding drum on my drill is 2".

What do you use in the UK because I've never seen tru-oil there, but to be fair, I never thought i woud need it.