How difficult would it be to remove this rust and pitting?

[jpgbrookes]

Hello everyone:

I have two old straight razors that I stored away a couple of years ago. After going through a few moves, I decided to dig them up and start using them again. Unfortunately, they developed some rust and pitting on them during the time I stored them.

For each razor, the first two pictures are how I found them with the rust on the blade. The second two pictures are after I washed them with some SOS steel wool.

1) Bonza half-hollow grind from Solingen, Germany









2) Neptune 4/8 wedge from Solingen, Germany









I got most of the rust off both blades. Thankfully, the rust didn't seem to be too deep. But there is a fair amount of pitting on them. How difficult would it be to get rid of this myself?

Thanks!

[Tathra11]

Being a half hollow with very little hone ware, that Bonsa looks to be a great possible resto job. However, the rust looks to be spread across the bevel right to the edge. So, before doing any resto work I always put such a razor to the stones to ensure the razor will 1. Take an edge and 2. Hold an edge. Only then will I put in any resto work to a razor. Hope this helps.

[Cutlersdream]

How would you go about polishing these pits marks out? wet and dry paper or is there a course polishing cream out there?

[Tathra11]

How would you go about polishing these pits marks out? wet and dry paper or is there a course polishing cream out there?

Typically my first step is to apply 3M Marine Metal Restorer & Polish with very fine steel wool. This stuff is pricey but very good. Sometimes that is all I bother with. If I'm going all out, I follow up with a progression of wet and dry with WD 40 or baby oil. This is where I decide how much pitting to remove. You can go too far with the sanding!! Then to the buffer with compounds and finish with a metal polish, I use MAAS. This is a lot of work and quite often I don't do all these steps. It depends what the steel needs and if the razor is worth the effort to me. This is just my method, I don't own a belt grinder or the like. Hopefully others will call by and offer advice.

[outback]

The steel wool and 3M would be my first choice. If it really bothers you afterwards, I'd start with 800 get W/D, wrapped around something round, like a cork, and baby oil. Working from spine to edge, from heal to toe. Back n forth...back n forth...back n forth. Progress to 1000 grt.till the paper isn't cutting anymore.

From there you should be able to hand polish it again, with the 3M and a rag. Yeah, it's pricey. But what it's capable of, is well worth the price. A little dab goes a long way, even once the rag is black.

[32t]

I think that you can return these into very usable razors. To restore them no.

[RezDog]

The only thin not already mentioned is that the more hollow a razor the less you can sand it. They are already as thin as they can be. You can do some sanding on half hollows but not much and if you start at the point suggested you will likely be just fine. Also once the active rust is removed they are more eye appealing but shave the same.

[Cutlersdream]

Thanks I'll check out the 3m marine restorer and polish.. I've been using autosol the normal one and and marine which is meant to be more abrasive but I cant really tell the difference between the two other than it smells different..