Optimum All Purpose Blade

OK, continuing from 'New Blade Production- Unrealistic?', I'd like to understand blades just a little better. I'm about to ask a stupid question, and as my father would say, I'll probably get a stupid answer. The fault there will obviously be my own ignorance. Still, I have to ask,

Is there a good 'all purpose' blade geometry? Thickness, length, width, bevel?

I know this is a can of worms and I'm certain there are as many good dimensions as there are shaving preferences. I know each blade size has different characteristics. But let's say you were going to manufacture one blade and one blade only. What would it's geometry be?

Obviously it's tough to say since many variations have been made on straights to accomodate different size faces and beards. In general, you see a lot of full hollow ground 5/8" razors. Blade length probably around 3" with the thickness at the spine maybe around 3/16"? Don't quote me on that. What do you mean by bevel though? The angle? How wide the bevel is? A lot of different guys might come up with a lot of different answers for this whole thread!

If you are planning on trying a production blade come hell or high water:
I actually just finished reading the whole thread you started about production blades. Those stats I listed above are just really what you see Dovo doing today, and many older (not sooo old) razors look that way too. I know nothing about steel production either. One thing to consider is the type of steel. Carbon (easy to sharpen buts wears quicker) or stainless (hard to sharpen but keeps an edge). Also, I think it would be refreshing to see a not so hollow blade nowadays. Half hollow might be a good jumping off point. Maybe suggest that and see what people say. I think it would offer you flexibility in terms of what you are sacrificing when making a full hollow i.e. stability etc.

5/8 just seems to be standard. It is what I've often read is suggested to start on. Many guys here seem to like 6/8 though. I think spine thickness is pretty much dictated by the rest of the blade. Proportions need to be respective I would think.

Round point is probably the most feasible shape. Spike points are often more "dangerous" for new guys and veterans even. Lots of guys like notches, but I can't see the extra "step" being justified as no one today can even say for sure why some blades were notched and some weren't. I think that you will find in the straight market, however limited it may be, the tastes that individuals carry are as individual as the people themselves.

As long as we're wishing...

• 6/8
• spike tip (modified w a 1/32" to 1/16" factory radius)
• half-hollow
• 2 1/2" to 2 3/4" cutting edge
• 1/8" to 9/64" spine/tang width
• jimps top and bottom of shank
• brass washers between shank and scales
• shank, tang, and top of the spine: blued finish, ala Genco Fluid Steel model
• ebony or black composition scales
• silver metal inlay on scale butt (e.g. vintage C-Mon or DD Wonderedge?)
• third pin/center plug

I bet I forgot something.