Greetings all
Does anyone ever use renaisance wax as a finsh for raw wood scales? If so, are there any tips you might have for its use?
Thanks
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Greetings all
Does anyone ever use renaisance wax as a finsh for raw wood scales? If so, are there any tips you might have for its use?
Thanks
I like the Renaissance Wax, but Tim Zowada showed me a Lemon Beeswax mix that is really nice. He makes his, but I have been able to find an Orange Beeswax commercially that is also really nice. Where are you in MO? Two of my sons live in St. Louis along with alot of family.
Lynn
I use Renaissance wax all the time. You could use it over unfinished wood and I'm sure it would work because it IS water resistant. I personally like to seal the wood first, then apply the wax. Just rub a little onto the scales with your fingers (and I mean a little), wait a minute, buff it out with a soft cloth. It dries instantly, so the waiting part doesn't really matter.
I've read about this stuff - it's suppose to be really good. What are its main selling points? If anyone wants to read a general article on wax and its application, check out the attachment.
Justin
Philadelph
What do you use to seal the scales first?
Lynn
I work in St Louis and live in the burbs in O'Fallon, MO.
Lynn, I mix my own beeswax, linseed oil and turpentine (in 1/3s, I think, I'll have to check) to make a nice beeswax finish, and I often add a small part of Lemon oil. What's the recipe for the Lemon Beeswax?Quote:
Originally Posted by adjustme69
I have a set of scales finished with this stuff, and they look and feel great...
cheers,
Nenad
I sand the wood up to 1200 grit or so, and then apply a generous amount of linseed oil, raw or oxidized, oxidized is preferred. I repeat this process couple of times, saturating the wood well. The applications should be 1-2 days apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by berserker
After the oil is somewhat dry, meaning there is no excess oil on the scales, I apply my own mixture of Beeswax, Turpentine and Linseed oil. Apply, let it soak (it won't soak, actually, because it's in paste form) for a while, and rub it off with some cloth. Repeat 2-3 times, allowing a day or two between coats. Finally, polish with some wool cloth, and enjoy the wonderful satin finished scales.
note: This finish will darken the wood a bit...
cheers,
Nenad
I have never used it on raw wood.
Usually finish raw wood (sanded down to 1200 grit) with 5-6 coats of tung oil (24 hours apart) then after 48 hours apply it or butcher's wax.
You can use poly or CA to seal the scales first. Two differences between renaissance wax and others is its high level of gloss once buffed and how it dries INSTANTLY. No other wax is like this that isn't a microcrystalline wax that I've found. Those are two big pluses for this wax in my opinion. Bill Ellis says it's the best wax he has ever used- and I think he's used a few lol. I love it.
I've had good experiences using "Briwax", supposed to be just about the same thing as renaissance wax, but cheaper.
many different processes and products can get you the same end result if you feel like experimenting.
where is a good source for renaissance wax?
Yes and Briwax also has its own sealant to apply before the wax. Nice stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Russel Baldridge
"where is a good source for renaissance wax?"
I got mine at the local Rockler, but you can also get it online.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17424
I found the renaissance wax at the local Wood Craft store.
My answer depends on the wood. I use wax on woods like Cocobolo or Lignum Vitae that don't really require sealing or hardening. On maple, walnut, oak etc. I like to seal with plyurethane (2-3 coats) before waxing. For scales, funiture and other hobbies alike I have found this to be the most durable and rich finish.