Pivot pin rust prevention

I have been nickle plating the pivot pin holes on the razors I re-work for a long time,and I think it has worked pretty well.I havent done any real tests,just observations.It is kind of a pain,as you have to vapor blast the hole first,then plate within an hour or so.I started trying two other methods around a year ago,and they seem to work better.First do the rough clean up of the tang then soak the tang (covering the pivot hole) in Ospho for an hour,remove and let dry overnight,then do your finish work,leaving the Ospho sheen in the pivot hole,I have also tried the same thing using Naval Jelly.Both of these seem to work real well,and prevent furthur corrosion.I havent done any scientific tests,just did 3 scrap blades with each,and let exposed behind my house for 6 months on the deck(I live right on the ocean) results were no corrosion on the nickle,Ospho,Naval Jelly,but plenty on the untreated blade
Id like to know what you guys are doing,if you have some better ideas

Best Regards Gary

I haven't really tried anything in this area, but how about immersing the tang in tuf-glide? I have yet to use tuf-glide as well, but I only hear rave reviews. It sounds like it would do the job from their product description:

TUF-GLIDE penetrates hard to reach areas and displaces water. It provides cleaning, rust protection and lubrication. Pure mineral spirits carries the active ingredients and provides cleaning action. It quickly evaporates, and Sentry's proprietary ingredients bond to the surface. The bonding ensures long-lasting effectiveness, and reliable dirt free performance.
TUF-GLIDES' waterproof protection will not wash off and won't thicken in the cold (even down to -40°F/-40°C). It is dry to the touch so will not attract dirt like oil-based products, nor does it leave a slippery film like silicone. It is safe to use on wood and most plastics.

I use Tuf-Glide too. But I've just heard of a product developed by Boeing that is supposed to be the be-all and end-all of moisture displacement treatments. A metallurgist told me about it. It's called Boeshield T-9. Has anybody used it yet?

Never heard of it. Looks interesting though. I did read hat it "Dries to a clean waxy film." That doesn't too appealing. I like how tuf-glide says "it quickly evaporates, and Sentry's proprietary ingredients bond to the surface." And "It is dry to the touch so will not attract dirt like oil-based products, nor does it leave a slippery film like silicone." etc. Anyone use both?

Tuff glide only works a little better than WD40 in my experience.Ive tested it against WD40 0n my back deck,and some times the WD prevents better,especially if there is some sand blowing.what Im trying to do with the things Im trying is a more permanant solution,somthing that will last 10 years or so,as the nickle plating will do.I do use the Tuff Glide in the little bottle with the needle applicator.Thanks for the answers.Best regards gary

I'm just trying to think of a simple solution since I don't have nickel plating abilities or anything else very serious in my current living situation. Maybe I'll try the Ospho or Naval Jelly as they sound pretty good from your tests (if I can find them). If you do find a more permanent fix (although your test didn't go past 6 months it sounds like) I'd love to know it! Good thread, thanks Gary.

Gary, have you ever tried something called Never Seize? It's available in grease form as well as in a wax like stick product. Copper in color, it is meant to be used on bolt threads and the like in harsh locations such as manifold bolts on car engines, suspension parts etc. where it protects from corrosion and tenaciously remains in place, avoiding being dried out or washed out for that matter.... I've been thinking of trying it someday. If the pin is properly tightened and you have the washers on both sides of the tang and a good fit against the scales, there's little possibility of it being washed out. It won't protect beyond the washers though as lather and water would have much better access to those areas.

Just a thought....

Christian

Christian.Yes I have used Never Sieze,it really works well,but it has a problem,it is made with molybdium disulfide,which is black in color,and works it way out of the pivot hole and makes a mess,if used with translucent scales you can see the black stain through the scales,and it looks like a very dirty razor.It's great stuff, I use it on my boats.By the way I finished your razors,and will post pictures ,and ship them tomorrow.I think they look great,and really shave great.I really like the small Reynolds.Best regards gary

Gary, that's why I was thinking of the stick version of it, rather than the grease type. I thought perhaps it might not migrate so badly but I can see it would be a problem with those translucent scales.

Looking forward to seeing the pictures, and I'm still waiting for the W&B pix you were going to send me.. :D I was hoping you might be able to include that one in the same box.

Christian

I find it interesting that you are nickel plating the holes but I'm not sure exactly why. All of the pin holes I've seen so far have been in quite nice shape.

What am I missing?

- Bob

I have tried silicone grease on a razor I have at the moment. Thought it was worth a go as I had a tube of the stuff already.

I have the scales attached with a M2.5 stainless bolt and nut with 4 stainless washers (both sides of both scales).

I filled the hole and coated the bolt and washers with the clear silicone grease and assembled it. After wiping the excess off you can't see it (probably not even with clear scales). It happily keeps the water at bay.

The Silicone grease is used in electrical, optical and other industries and is pretty good stuff.

Just my $0.02, I'm no expert so take it for what it is worth ;)

Cheers,
Ash.

I use Militec1 on my razors, blades and pins, and have never had a problem with corrosion. You bake it on with a hairdryer, it is not waxy or oily at all.

I think Gary it talking more along the permanent lines no?
As in you only need one application in the pivot hole forever, well 10 years or so.

Gary,

After you treat with the Naval Jelly, do you clean up the area?
I missed that part (coffee has not hit yet)

C utz

isent navel jelly a corosive? I have used it to remove rust.

I spent some time at work thinking about this issue and I started to wonder about using sacrificial washers. Considering the limited exposure the joint has to water and that generally, soap doesn't really increase the corrosion factor, perhaps a pair of sacrificial washers made from zinc might work well and should surely last 10 years or more given normal use. The only fly in the ointment I can see would be the use of brass for the pin, I don't remember that much from my physics/chemistry class, but a third metal kind of muddies the water. Perhaps a switch to stainless for the pin might work better? I do know that I have to place a piece of stainless steel between copper and zinc coated steel (aka galvanized steel) when grounding steel towers to avoid nasty corrosion issues and brass contains copper so....


Christian

Boeshield T9 is a great bicycle lubricant. It works well, better than the commonly used lubes. The package describes it as a "unique solvent and parrafin wax formula penetrates, cleans, and displaces moisture. Dries to a thin film that lubricates and protects for (here is the good part for those with long jaws) HUNDREDS OF MILES."