Bocote Finish

I'm just finishing up my very first restoration. The wood I'm using is some very nice figured bocote. My initial plan was to use gloss epoxy, but I'm so enamored of the graining, I'm having second thoughts. As I'm getting closer to the final Mocro Mesh, I'm noticing an almost calico colored cow horn pattern to the wood grain, and I really don't want to lose that. So, what may be an option for bocote? I've read that an oil finish might not work because of the already present natural oil in this wood. I've also read that no finish at all is possible for the same reasons as stated above. I've never worked with bocote in any form before so any help would be appreciated!

Kinda waiting for an answer here myself my next set of scales will most likely be Bocote', and I never even heard of this wood before seeing the beautiful grain that it had on a razor here...I instantly decided that I would have a set of scales made of this, but I too have no clue as to how I am going to finish it ?????????????????? If I remember correctly that razor was CA finished...

The way I see it, you have quite a few options...

• CA
• Ployurethane (matt,semi,gloss as you prefer)
• Linseed or Tung oil
• Shellac
• Epoxy
• Plain or burnished

If you're after a natural look with a little protection, I'd use a linseed or tung oil. These oils are polymerizing oils (meaning they evaporate and harden). While the bocote has a high oil content to start with, it is mostly non-polymerizing and provides only some protection from water. Using linseed or tung oil will add a protective shell and will penetrate into the pores of the wood. The protective effect is enhanced by burnishing (rubbing) the piece between coats of oil.

I use linseed oil and a beer bottle (for burnishing) to do my martial arts weapons. After 4 coats the wood begins to feel like plastic while still retaining the natural look. It becomes very water resistant and strong.

You CAN just leave the wood sanded or maybe wax it, I'm just saying you'd be better off adding a little more protection.

I have a set I'm waiting to finish. I'll probably go with CA and/or Poly. I'll let you know what happens, but it may not be for a while.

Bocote finishes like any other wood. If you are worried about adhesion you can swipe the wood with acetone right before the first coat.

Both Oil and CA really accentuate the grain patterns.

Charlie

Thanks for the options guys. While browsing the local ACE I noticed a Minwax poly that is formulated for wiping on with a cloth as opposed to the brush. Anyone use this yet? My project had a bit of setback today. As I'm deciding on which avenue to take with the bocote, I noticed a raised edge near the pivot end. At some point a piece of grain raised on the edge and actually lifted away. I'm going to use a super glue band aid, and I'll finish after the necessary micro mesh/sanding. I'm hoping to figure out how to post pictures of it when I'm done. I'm using the office PC! I guess that no longer makes it Personal:roflmao !

CA's a good option for bocote. It's a very oily wood, and takes an incredible natural finish. The problem, though, is that the oil will oxidize and darken the wood over time. Not a big problem, but if you want it looking "new" as long as possible, you need to seal surface of the wood from oxygen (and UV light, too...some woods, like bois d'arc turn a lovely chocolate brown (it's bright yellow when cut) upon UV exposure.) I've never tried shellac and some of the other finishes mentioned, but I think buddel is getting super results from shellac. Oh, and don't sand finer than 400 grit when applying CA, or you will have some adhesion problems, particularly when putting the pins through the scale.

Well I took advice and punted. I tried the Min Wax Wipe On Poly. Seemed to be the best of several worlds. Very easy to use and quick drying for a couple of those. I CA'd the grain lift, re-sanded, then applied two coats of poly over a 6 hour period. I sanded all the way to glosssy with the Micro Mesh, and I'm about to pin in my blade. If all goes well I'll repost later. If all doesn't go well, well I tried!

Yul, I use the minwax wipe-on poly. It works great as long as the wood isn't too oily. Bill Ellis uses it.

On oily wood I use acetone. Give the wood a quick wipe down with it just before I put the first coat of CA on them. So far, so good.

Okay now that I can finally ask a damn question on these sites! We have cocobolo wood and cobote wood and I read stuff about acetone and wiping it down and some oils. But we make our wood stuff for guns grips and such, and the polyurethane is just making it sticky and taking forever to dry. Now I'm lost with oily woods. And I just need help puttin a finish on these.! No dies or nothin just a finish to keep them shiny and the grains showing. We do the mounted shooting an sell grips for those guns so they'll get a little beat around any suggestions would be awesome please!

I use a white rouge and high speed buffing, followed by several coats of ren wax

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Originally Posted by yul b. nekst

Thanks for the options guys. While browsing the local ACE I noticed a Minwax poly that is formulated for wiping on with a cloth as opposed to the brush. Anyone use this yet? My project had a bit of setback today. As I'm deciding on which avenue to take with the bocote, I noticed a raised edge near the pivot end. At some point a piece of grain raised on the edge and actually lifted away. I'm going to use a super glue band aid, and I'll finish after the necessary micro mesh/sanding. I'm hoping to figure out how to post pictures of it when I'm done. I'm using the office PC! I guess that no longer makes it Personal:roflmao !

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The minwax poly wipe on? I have used it. Its really nice and pretty much a no brainer to get the finish. Its not like a CA or epoxy finish though.