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Hello gents,
I'm about to dress 2 razors I polished with some old unused scales Alex (Philadelph) kindly sold me.
The first razor is a Filarmonica 12. It's a tiny 4/8 razor.
The other one is a Wade & Butcher Bow razor. It's barely 6/8.
Now, I was wondering if I should put a 3rd pin in both scales. I really like to see some razors with a 3-pin scales. What do you think? Do you think a Philly and a W&D dress nice in a 3-pin scales? Or should I stick to a more "stock" look?
Thanks
I'd do 2 on the Filly and 3 on the W&B. Generally, smaller razors get 2 and I haven't seen a razor smaller than 6/8 to get 3 (ofcourse, I'm sure that there are some out there, but not too common).
The other school of thought says that you should forget about conventions and do what you want.
I wasn't very helpful, was I? :nj
Throw some pictures up so we can see. :)
Thank you for your opinions.
I'd upload some pics, but I don't have a camera with me and my PDA shoots lousy pics.
The scales are the most simple you can get. Celluloid or Bakelite, plain and slim...
I must disagree with you, FireStart, I've seen last week a Dubl Duck Dwarf with a 3-pin handle. I'm not sure what size is a Dwarf :D , but it must not be larger than 5/8, I guess...
Is it common to see 3 pins in W&B's?
I see the occasional third pin in W&Bs. Usually the scales are so heavy on the older ones that they don't need one. I will do a third pin on thin celluloid to stiffen them up. I agree with, if you want to, just do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon
I might put a 3rd pin in my SP1 - she's very thinly scaled.
I agree with Ilija, 2 on Filly and 3 on WnB.
Leon, I've also seen a lot of 3-pins on smaller than 6/8 DD's. Anyway, I like the three pin look as long as you do it very carefully so that the side placements turn out even.
Thanks all,
There's just one about putting the 3rd pin...
I have a disassembled handle that consists on 2 equal parts and a spacer.
Here's my plan of action:
I drill the hole for the 3rd pin;
I glue somehow the spacer to one of the halves of the scale, then I pin them altogether;
I pin the pivot hole;
I pin the 3rd pin.
What is the usual order you gents follow?
I don't know exactly how will I pin the 3rd pin because, unlike the other 2, this pin doesn't hold anything tightly together, I mean, it only embraces one side of the scales to another leaving a gap between those 2 pieces. Should I get some kind of small spacer or a tube to put it between? I'm asking you this because imagine if I slightly squeeze (they're plastic) in the middle of the scales, the 3rd pin will pop out of its original place due to the its size being larger than the squeezed scales...
Hope i understand your question correctly...Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon
From what I understand the 3rd pin inside spacer is about the size of the width of the razor's tang (3/16th inch for a 5/8 th razor).
You would have to put a spacer to prevent the scales from collapsing as you describe.
The 3rd pin don't have to be peened all that tight, just flatten the ends enough to not slip out, the spacer holds the scales apart... may not even need a washer.
You could pin it last.
i'd say pin the spacer first. i always pin the spacer first. holds things together while allowing some give with the scales. you can still pull them apart a bit to put in the pivot pin and a 3rd pin.
measure the 3pin with the razor make sure you have clearance for both missing it with the blade along with allowing the blade to close completely before hitting it.
i'd go right up, spacer pin, 3rd pin, then pivot pin in that order. though you could do the 3rd pin last. just make sure the spacer goes before the pivot so you can peen the pivot correctly with the razor closed so its in the middle of the scales. that is the most important part.
~J
3rd pin is all up to your for your own liking.
Thanks for your opinions.
Actually I'm going for the 3-pin W&B and 2-pin Filly.
Now, my W&B is too "fat" for the celluloid scales. I'll have to remove the original slim spacer and put a larger one, so that the gap between the scales and the spacer can hold the blade closer.
Now, what kind of materials do you usually work to produce a nice spacer? Plastic, bone, coin (I remember seeing a tutorial using a coin). And how easy it is to sand it, glue it, etc.?
Thank you
You could use plastic, wood, bone, brass- Some guys even use a key to shape a spacer from. Anyone have that link showing using a key for a spacer? I never really glue my spacers in, just make sure they are peened well. Different materials will be different to sand.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philadelph
Is it this one?
Thanks.
Besides metal, how easy is to find material for the spacer. For example, where can I buy some bone? :D Creepy... Or maybe I was thinking some semi-transparent material, glass, plastic...
I don't know about bone, but wood you can get at woodworking stores or maybe certain hardware stores (probably not exotic stuff). Metals you can get at hobby shops. Plastics you might also find at woodworking places or maybe craft stores. Other than that, I think it is mostly online ordering if you don't have those types of shops around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leon
heres an interesting thread on bone!
http://straightrazorpalace.com/showt...highlight=bone
When I want bone I just use cattle shin bone from the butcher's shop. Most butchers give them away free for dogs if you buy some meat from them.
Hope that helps.
Duncan.