What should I expect for restoration?

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03-25-2008, 06:48 PM
shaveshell

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What should I expect for restoration?

Hi all, so I did it, I won a razor off ebay and am looking forward to getting it in good shape. This is the second one I've won and to be honest, I haven't had the best luckwith the first. Both have been Wade & Butcher (not sure if that's going to make a difference) and I feel like I've had to do 50 or 60 passes on the Norton 4K/8K to get the first one even cloose to sharp and to be honest, I don' think there's any question it's still not ready to shave with.

So, here's the new one.

"Up for auction is a wonderful old vintage antique 5 7/8 inch closed Wade & Butcher Flat Ground Straight Razor. The dish point blade is 13/16 inches wide and marked on two lines WADE & BUTCHER – SHEFFIELD over their classic W in a circle-ARROW-CROSS Logo on the tang which is c1819-1918. The heavy blade has been very lightly sharpened, has its original mirror finish and appears to be in excellent condition. The handles are very pretty Smooth Dark Brown and Black Horn or Celluloid, in very nice condition with no cracks and a few very tiny edge chips."

I'd say that although it's in great shape, it's not sharp at all. I haven't tried it, but I have no doubt that i could run it across my hand without cutting it. So, my question is, what should I expect for what it will take to sharpen. Right now I only have the 4K/8K but think I'm going to get a 1K to have in my arsenal. I'm just worried about over sharpening and was worried that I took the first one too far which is why it's still not sharp. Not sure what to do or expect for this one. Thanks for the help! Also, any suggestions on the first one welcome too! :-)

-Matt
03-25-2008, 07:20 PM
Kyle76

You might want to try this post in the honing forum.
03-26-2008, 03:13 PM
cannonfodder

Honing forum would be the best place for your post. You will need something a bit more aggressive, I use a 1200DMT to cut the bevel, if it is in real bad shape then I will get out the 600DMT. So I will go 600DMT, 1200DMT then my 4K 8K Norton and then chromium oxide strop then leather. Works for me but your mileage may vary. FYI, it is easy to ruin a blade on a heavy grit diamond stone, they cut very fast so you have to be careful. If you roll the tip or heal, in a few passes you will have a smiling blade.
03-26-2008, 08:50 PM
shaveshell

What about the 1000 Norton since I already have that. Will it work or should I get the Diamond?
03-26-2008, 09:06 PM
gssixgun

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaveshell

What about the 1000 Norton since I already have that. Will it work or should I get the Diamond?

IMHO the 1k Norton is a bevel setting monster.....
Still go light on the pressure, it is way to easy to think that your getting nowhere fast, and then ya start to press.... DON"T DO IT!!!!!
Let the stone do the work,,,, unfortunately, there is not a set number of laps for any type of hone.... My personal rule of "thumb" (pun intended) is after I can see a bevel forming, I go 5 laps, and TPT, 5 laps, and TPT, until it gets sticky sharp.... after the bevel is established you can basically do any type of sharpening that you feel comfortable doing ie: pyramids, progressives, or the Shaveshell method, to bring it to shaving sharp, what ever works for you...
This of course is just my experience, and there are more ways than this that work.....
03-26-2008, 11:29 PM
Philadelph

Quote:

Originally Posted by gssixgun

IMHO the 1k Norton is a bevel setting monster.....
unfortunately, there is not a set number of laps for any type of hone.... after the bevel is established you can basically do any type of sharpening that you feel comfortable doing... This of course is just my experience, and there are more ways than this that work.....

+1 the 1k is fine. I use it.